I have several urban vinyl figures, and I enjoy browsing in designer toy shops. I'm always slightly disappointed, however, by designer plush toys. While popular lines like Ugly Dolls are cute, it always seems to me that they don't take full advantage of the medium of fabric. Most of the designer toys I've seen are simple shapes made in simple fabrics and stuffed with polyester fiberfill. While there's nothing wrong with that, there's also a whole world of different types of fabrics and stuffings that aren't being utilized.
I've always been slightly fascinated by designer toy lines like Qee and Dunny, where vinyl figures are made in one shape but decorated differently by different artists. In this instructable, I'm going to be applying this idea to plush toys. That is, I'm going to start with one basic shape, and make it several times with variations.
My primary theme for this experiment is texture, but I'll also be playing with color and shape.
Note: this is more of a general exploration than a set of sequenced instructions. Please read the entire thing before making your plushie.
I've always been slightly fascinated by designer toy lines like Qee and Dunny, where vinyl figures are made in one shape but decorated differently by different artists. In this instructable, I'm going to be applying this idea to plush toys. That is, I'm going to start with one basic shape, and make it several times with variations.
My primary theme for this experiment is texture, but I'll also be playing with color and shape.
Note: this is more of a general exploration than a set of sequenced instructions. Please read the entire thing before making your plushie.
Step 1: About Fabric
There are two primary types of fabric: knitted and woven. Knitted materials tend to be slightly stretchy, while woven materials are not. (Your t-shirt is probably made of knitted fabric.) Of course, there are also special materials like spandex which is stretchier than a standard knit.
When making a toy, keep in mind that woven materials hold a shape better than stretchy ones. This is probably more of a consideration when making a jointed toy like a teddy bear, but if you want your toy to be a very precise shape with no distortion, choose a woven material.
Also keep in mind the thickness of the material. A very thin fabric may allow internal seams and stuffing to be visible, and won't stand up to rough handling. A thick fabric (like denim, for example) will make a solid, sturdy shape but might not be as huggable.
And of course, there's fur. A wide variety of furry fabrics are available, ranging from expensive, woven, mohairs used by collectible teddy bear artists to cheap knitted synthetics. When choosing a fur, run your hand through the pile (that's the furry part of the fur). A good quality fur should be thick and soft. Poorer quality fake furs feel rough in comparison.
When making a toy, keep in mind that woven materials hold a shape better than stretchy ones. This is probably more of a consideration when making a jointed toy like a teddy bear, but if you want your toy to be a very precise shape with no distortion, choose a woven material.
Also keep in mind the thickness of the material. A very thin fabric may allow internal seams and stuffing to be visible, and won't stand up to rough handling. A thick fabric (like denim, for example) will make a solid, sturdy shape but might not be as huggable.
And of course, there's fur. A wide variety of furry fabrics are available, ranging from expensive, woven, mohairs used by collectible teddy bear artists to cheap knitted synthetics. When choosing a fur, run your hand through the pile (that's the furry part of the fur). A good quality fur should be thick and soft. Poorer quality fake furs feel rough in comparison.
Step 2: About Stuffing
The most common type of stuffing for plush toys is polyester fiberfill. This is also the material used inside most pillows. You should be able to find it in bags at most fabric stores. It should be unshaped and fluffy - don't confuse it with batting used for quilts (which is formed into flat sheets).
Fabric stores should also have plastic pellets used for beanbag filling. I recommend avoiding beanbags if you intend to give your toys to young children, as the pellets can be a choking hazard. If you're making adult collectibles, though, you can add weight by using glass beads or steel shot in your beanbags. Or, you can experiment with using actual beans, rice, or sand. All of these will give a different feel to a toy.
If you do make a beanbag, remember that it won't keep its shape as well as a toy filled with fiberfill. You might experiment with combining the two - use beans in the body and/or feet, but use polyester fiberfill in the head.
You can also experiment with other fillings, such as fabric scraps or small pieces of foam for a different feel.
Fabric stores should also have plastic pellets used for beanbag filling. I recommend avoiding beanbags if you intend to give your toys to young children, as the pellets can be a choking hazard. If you're making adult collectibles, though, you can add weight by using glass beads or steel shot in your beanbags. Or, you can experiment with using actual beans, rice, or sand. All of these will give a different feel to a toy.
If you do make a beanbag, remember that it won't keep its shape as well as a toy filled with fiberfill. You might experiment with combining the two - use beans in the body and/or feet, but use polyester fiberfill in the head.
You can also experiment with other fillings, such as fabric scraps or small pieces of foam for a different feel.
Step 3: The Shape of Things to Come
I've decided to use a very simple shape as a platform for experimentation. While some designer plushies are complex two-dimensional shapes, my toys are simple but three-dimensional.
The pattern is essentially a triangle with the top cut off. Cut the number of triangles you want from fabric - use more if you want a fatter toy, less for a skinny toy. Use at least 3 to get a nice round shape.
Sew the sides of the triangles together, leaving an opening in one seam so you can stuff it later. Then, cut out circles for the top and the bottom. You can simply place the sewn part of the toy on the fabric, make sure it's pretty circular, and then trace around it. No need to make exact patterns for these circles.
You can play with this shape to get different variations. Make it shorter or taller. Make the top and the bottom oval or square instead of round. Curve the sides to make a fat belly or a pinched in waist.
The pattern is essentially a triangle with the top cut off. Cut the number of triangles you want from fabric - use more if you want a fatter toy, less for a skinny toy. Use at least 3 to get a nice round shape.
Sew the sides of the triangles together, leaving an opening in one seam so you can stuff it later. Then, cut out circles for the top and the bottom. You can simply place the sewn part of the toy on the fabric, make sure it's pretty circular, and then trace around it. No need to make exact patterns for these circles.
You can play with this shape to get different variations. Make it shorter or taller. Make the top and the bottom oval or square instead of round. Curve the sides to make a fat belly or a pinched in waist.
Step 4: Mix and Match
The type of fabric you choose will give your toy a particular feel. You can mix and match different textures and colors for really wild combinations.
If you don't want to go shopping, try using old towels for a sturdy, fuzzy toy or old t-shirts for a soft, squishy one.
Remember to leave 1/4 inch extra around the sides of your pattern, and sew that far in from the edge of the fabric to avoid things unraveling on you.
If you are using fur, be careful about which way the pile goes. That is, most furs will have a direction in which the fur tends to lie flat. Stroke it different directions to find out which one is which, then decide which way your pattern pieces should go. (I HATE it when commercially produced toys have fur that lies different directions on different parts of the body. But maybe you like this effect?)
Another note on using fur - when cutting it, open your scissors just a little and slide them along the backing. This prevents you from cutting off the fur along the seams.
If you don't want to go shopping, try using old towels for a sturdy, fuzzy toy or old t-shirts for a soft, squishy one.
Remember to leave 1/4 inch extra around the sides of your pattern, and sew that far in from the edge of the fabric to avoid things unraveling on you.
If you are using fur, be careful about which way the pile goes. That is, most furs will have a direction in which the fur tends to lie flat. Stroke it different directions to find out which one is which, then decide which way your pattern pieces should go. (I HATE it when commercially produced toys have fur that lies different directions on different parts of the body. But maybe you like this effect?)
Another note on using fur - when cutting it, open your scissors just a little and slide them along the backing. This prevents you from cutting off the fur along the seams.
Step 5: Sewing and Stuffing
Sew the fabric pieces with the right sides together. As previously mentioned, leave an opening along one of the side seams. Once all the seams are sewn, turn the toy right-side out through the opening.
Now it's time for the fun part! Stuff the toy until it feels right. If you're using polyester fiberfill, pull off small pieces and push them into the top and bottom of the toy first. If you want the toy to be firm, keep pushing bits of stuffing in until it feels right, and then put some more in. (It will tend to squish down over time, especially if the toy is hugged.)
If you're using beanbag filling or other material, be creative.
When the toy is stuffed, close the opening using a ladder stitch (which will hide the stitches) or a whip stitch (which will display them.
Now it's time for the fun part! Stuff the toy until it feels right. If you're using polyester fiberfill, pull off small pieces and push them into the top and bottom of the toy first. If you want the toy to be firm, keep pushing bits of stuffing in until it feels right, and then put some more in. (It will tend to squish down over time, especially if the toy is hugged.)
If you're using beanbag filling or other material, be creative.
When the toy is stuffed, close the opening using a ladder stitch (which will hide the stitches) or a whip stitch (which will display them.
Step 6: Embellishements
Your plushie may need eyes, teeth, ears, a tail, or other interesting attachments.
Some types of attachments are sewn into the seams. Others are added after stuffing the toy.
Here are some ideas:
Googly eyes - glue them on after stuffing the toy
Buttons - sew them on after stuffing the toy
Teeth - cut them out of felt and whip stitch in place after stuffing the toy
Embroider a face after stuffing the toy
Ears - cut four ear shapes out of fabric. Sew each pair around the edge leaving the bottom open. Turn the ears right side out, place them on the toy after stuffing it, and whip stitch along the bottom edge to hold them in place.
Feet - sew them into the seam. Cut feet shapes out of fabric. Sew each pair around the edge leaving the bottom open. Turn right side out. Sew them into the seam between the toy's sides and bottom. To get this to come out right, you need to place the side and bottom pieces right sides together with the foot in between them. The foot should be right side out with the edge lined up with the edges of the other pieces.
Be creative! Sew other attachments into the side seams. Put pipe cleaners inside tall skinny rabbit ears to make them poseable. And most importantly, have fun!
Some types of attachments are sewn into the seams. Others are added after stuffing the toy.
Here are some ideas:
Googly eyes - glue them on after stuffing the toy
Buttons - sew them on after stuffing the toy
Teeth - cut them out of felt and whip stitch in place after stuffing the toy
Embroider a face after stuffing the toy
Ears - cut four ear shapes out of fabric. Sew each pair around the edge leaving the bottom open. Turn the ears right side out, place them on the toy after stuffing it, and whip stitch along the bottom edge to hold them in place.
Feet - sew them into the seam. Cut feet shapes out of fabric. Sew each pair around the edge leaving the bottom open. Turn right side out. Sew them into the seam between the toy's sides and bottom. To get this to come out right, you need to place the side and bottom pieces right sides together with the foot in between them. The foot should be right side out with the edge lined up with the edges of the other pieces.
Be creative! Sew other attachments into the side seams. Put pipe cleaners inside tall skinny rabbit ears to make them poseable. And most importantly, have fun!
Step 7: Ta-da!
Finally, show off your results!
Make sure you hug them to fully appreciate your choices of texture =)
Make sure you hug them to fully appreciate your choices of texture =)
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friendlysinger
says:
Mar 13, 2012. 3:21 PMReply
This is sooooo cute! very nice instructable!
4
KwartzKitten
says:
Feb 15, 2012. 9:27 PMReply
This is probably the best idea I've seen for a customizable plush yet. Imagine being able to have one pattern and customize it to fit the widest audience possible. Great job!
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