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Step 11Anaglyph Focus And Framing
Although you can capture anaglyphs that will show good stereo separation without paying much attention to focus, focus doesn't just determine what is sharpest in anaglyph capture, but also how far away each object appears to be.
Phase-detect autofocus systems will not function while the color-coded stop is in place and contrast-detect autofocus is mildly impaired. Either autofocus with the stop temporarily removed or manual focus will usually work best. Use the absence of color fringing to judge manual focus point -- the whole screen becomes a double-image rangefinder!
The tricky part is that the small apertures in your stop should give a relatively large depth of field -- objects within a larger range of distances will be acceptably sharp. However, the colors will only align at the point you focused on.
In anaglyph imaging, creative separation of the point of sharpest focus from the point of color alignment is a big deal. Where the colors align will appear to be at the front surface of the display or print when viewing. Things in front of that point appear to jump out of the frame at you, which is very disturbing if those objects get clipped by the edge of the image.
Thus, if you will not be post processing to separate the focus point from the color registration point, it is probably best to focus on the nearest object in the scene, or at least to frame the image so that closer objects do not intersect the edge of the frame. On some of the larger and better live view displays, you can effectively compose your shot in 3D if you wear anaglyph glasses, thus making it much easier to avoid bad object depth placement issues.
Phase-detect autofocus systems will not function while the color-coded stop is in place and contrast-detect autofocus is mildly impaired. Either autofocus with the stop temporarily removed or manual focus will usually work best. Use the absence of color fringing to judge manual focus point -- the whole screen becomes a double-image rangefinder!
The tricky part is that the small apertures in your stop should give a relatively large depth of field -- objects within a larger range of distances will be acceptably sharp. However, the colors will only align at the point you focused on.
In anaglyph imaging, creative separation of the point of sharpest focus from the point of color alignment is a big deal. Where the colors align will appear to be at the front surface of the display or print when viewing. Things in front of that point appear to jump out of the frame at you, which is very disturbing if those objects get clipped by the edge of the image.
Thus, if you will not be post processing to separate the focus point from the color registration point, it is probably best to focus on the nearest object in the scene, or at least to frame the image so that closer objects do not intersect the edge of the frame. On some of the larger and better live view displays, you can effectively compose your shot in 3D if you wear anaglyph glasses, thus making it much easier to avoid bad object depth placement issues.
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