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Step 4: Types of Treadmill Motors

I have seen 3 types of motors.

DC Permanent Magnet with PWM controller (Great for torque at all speeds).2 wires to the motor (Usually).

DC motor with Armature-voltage DC Motor Control. (Great for torque at all speeds).4 wires to the motor. 2 run to the shunt-field current , 2 run to the armature. Vary the voltage applied to the armature, vary the speed. Not all 4 wire motors are Armature Voltage controlled. Some have 2 wires that are part of a thermal protective circuit. The ones I have seen are usually both blue.

AC motors. (Probably not any better than the AC motor your'e thinking of replacing).Motors are running at a constant. Incorporates a special sliding pulley.Changing the belt speed is done manually-controlled with a cable that changes the size of the pulley's diameter. Larger motor pulley diameter faster belt speed, smaller pulley slower belt speed (I think).

The DC motors vary in size but most are Permanent Magnet,have brushes, a flywheel,and have either tapped holes or a bracket or flange welded to the case for mouting. They typically can range from 80-120VDC but as high as 260VDC. The HP's 1/2 to 3.5HP (treadmill duty rating), Upper end RPM 2500-6000, 5-20 Amps.

The Max RPM isn't as critical when you can adjust to any RPM within the range and keep a near constant torque.

You can reverse the direction on the DC motors by reversing the polarity. Simply swap the 2 motor wires (usually Black & White or Black & Red)at the terminals on the PWM circuit card. Remember if you reverse the direction of the motor you can't use the flywheel as it is. Because of left hand threads it could come off. Drill tap and set-screw the flywheel to the shaft
<p>So are these DC motors actually servos or not?<br>I am assuming there must be some kind of signal coming out of the motor to the control board if the motors turn on and off to maintain a set seed. At least with the 4-wire units, and the two wire I guess would have an internal circuit to adjust to speed.<br>Anybody know for sure?<br>I am trying to find an fordable servo to power a bench-top lathe and I require spindle feedback to the control software for treading.<br><br>Thanks for any guidance!!</p>
<p>Stepper motors will do that good and they don't cost very much</p><p>you could use one for the main drive &amp; one for the secondary drive</p><p>the software will keep they instep with each other </p>
<p>you have to use more than the control board and motor then. There is a magnet that sits on the end of the front roller. On mine it feeds back to the control board and shows the actual machine speed to adjust the voltage to maintain the correct rpm. I have never went that far to use one, so I cannot offer that advice. If you can read and understand the wiring schematic for your treadmill, you may be able to get it to work for you. </p>
<p>The one on the front roller has nothing to do with the motor. It just counts the rpms of the roller to convert how far you have walked and how fast you are running for the display. the two blue wire in the motor send the motor speed /load to the board to adjust voltage. They work very well I just converted a shopsmith mark 5 that had a dead motor over to a 2.5 hp treadmill motor. Makes the lathe and drill press a whole new machine. I would imagine my band saw will be able to go slow enough to cut metal now. But since i have 3 shopsmiths this one will be mostly for lathe or when I need to run large holesaws ext.</p>
<p>Probably a late reply but the four wires typically are thermal protection and power. A lot of circuits use induction feedback to keep a constant speed. In other words, as the motor experiences a load, the induction of the windings change (can't remember if it increases or decreases) due to a force counteracting the magnetic field, there are some circuits that do this passively, like how a capacitor maintains a constant voltage (to an extent) despite brief changes in load or amount of power supplied, there are limits but it would keep a relatively constant velocity to between 10-20% of a goal rpm, depending on the circuit. But for a lathe, you would need some kind of encoder like UberNoober said. There are actually a few different designs ofencoders you can print on your computer and glue to the spindle pulley (don't go on the motor unless you have a chain or gear drive, since belts will slip), a pair of LED's reflect off the dark and light parts printed on the paper you glued, and a sensor placed in the right proximity to the led and encoder wheel will receive the signal allowing you to determine the position of the spindle. It's like a stepper though, in that if the software glitches or something your reading will be off by however many steps were missed, a professionally made servo would be the best way to correct for this and for a homemade kind you would need a multiphase synchronus AC motor (aka, most brushless dc motors) Hard and disk drive motors typically fit the bill, but since you're looking at treadmill motors I'm guessing you need power to the spindle? That's actually what I am looking for information on too and if you'd like I can keep you updated on what I find. I don't know if you're still working on yours, but I'm planning a cnc build with ball bearing linear ways and a tapered bearing spindle with a belt drive to a 2.9 HP treadmill motor.</p>
<p>These are not servos, and they do not have any sort of position or velocity feedback. It could be possible to add an encoder, resolver, tachometer, etc in order to get the feedback you want, but you would have to work that out to fit your specific system and needs.</p>
<p>No servo, just dc motor, unless yours is AC. the most of them are all the same. 4 wires. 2 are power (pos. &amp; neg.) and the 2 (blue) ones are thermoprotector </p><p>( so it don't over heat ) the magnet on the pulley is just a RPM meter. (most of them) if the RPMs drop the controller don't compensate for it. I guess that would drive up cost. these motors will run on almost any voltage you feed it. I have one that runs on 220 dc. Most dc motors are like that. the ones that say that they'll go only in one direction, that's because the pulley is treaded on the shaft. if you remove the pulley, cut it to hold a keyway, then you can make it turn either direction</p><p>just reverse polarity..</p>
<p>First off thank you so very much for this article. I'm new here and realize this is a old article but hope I can get some answers. </p><p>I am looking to make my own large bowl woodturning lathe( here:http://www.winburn.com/Images/BowlLathe_85.JPG) and have searched tirelessly for information on building one on a budget. I have just a few questions and have some examples of a speed controller and motor I looking at on eBay.</p><p>1. Are treadmill motors capable of high torgue? Reason why I ask is I need a dc motor that can handle being able to turn large blanks for bowls.</p><p>2. Do you think this setup would work and this is just a example of the motor I plan on trying to buy or scrap one from a used treadmill. <a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/Trimline-Treadmill-DC-Drive-Motor-by-Lesson-2HP-/131986748339?hash=item1ebb05f3b3:g:CHYAAOSwuAVWzugS#shpCntId" rel="nofollow">http://www.ebay.com/itm/Trimline-Treadmill-DC-Driv...</a></p><p>3. I realize that using all the electronics from a treadmill to control the speed etc. would be cheaper but while this is a excellent article I am no genius at electronics. So this is the speed controller I am looking to buy <a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/121462713601?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT" rel="nofollow">http://www.ebay.com/itm/121462713601?_trksid=p2060...</a></p><p>I have a speed controller on my old lathe that I modified also with a new motor but the thing was so complicated to figure out going from a 3 phase motor to 1 phase I had to hire a electrician to figure it out( trigonometry involved LOL hurt my brain)</p><p>Anyhow if anyone can help me here with answers I would greatly appreciate it. </p>
<p>Hi,</p><p>I have a 4 wire AC powered treadmill motor and when i press start, the motor runs for 1-2seconds and then stop, after fully stoped in static position it can run again for 1-2sec... where can be the problem? In the motor? 4wire - 2blue , 1black and 1red. 2 blue wire are for AC power supply 220V . For what are black and red? Is PWM wait information from them?</p><p>Please help me!</p><p>Thank you?</p>
<p>good day, i would like to ask if i can tap an arduino in this kind of circuitry. and if possible. can you guide me somehow. TIA. :)</p>
<p>Hello there! Great material, thank you for posting this.</p><p>This looks exactly what I have except that the circuit board . Where can I find a design to replace the board?some information related to our new informative &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mifasystems.com/d-c-drives-lt&quot;&gt;d.c. drives &lt;/a&gt;</p>
<p>Hello,</p><p>I've been going down the same &quot;rabbit hole&quot;...tidbits of misinformation, and links that revert right back to using the treadmill power supply...The treadmill I have has push button control so no slide or rotary control which I have to have,plus the CB is about 8&quot; long and the transformer is huge...</p><p>Anyhow, I'd like to build one myself but it seems not to be time or cost effective, so...Here is what I've found </p><p>90/180 VDC speed control with pot part# 11-2269 @ surpluscenter.com..$84.95...</p><p>It doesn't look too complicated so maybe get one to dissect and build another one from scratch...Least ways I'd probably learn something....</p><p>Good luck with your hunt....</p>
Hi please guide me in wiring 180v dc motor 5400 rpm. I rummaged it from a junkyard. I want to run it on 220 AC current. As iam a total novice about electronics, any effort to elaborate the steps would be deeply appreciated.<br>
<p><br></p><p>http://www.partsfortreadmill.com/</p>
<p>Used this to make a diy pitching machine for my son. Great stuff and thanks for sharing the info about the trim pot. It functioned great, but I just had it bolted to a old car wheel as the base, so height adjustment was a pain to adjust when the speed was changed. Also it would move a bit from vibration so the new stand and tweeks will take care of all those issues.</p><p>Doing a remake now. I'll post a finished picture when I get the wiring cleaned up &amp; stand cemented in and in the cage. </p>
<p>Nice pitching machine. How did you connect the wheel to the motor shaft?</p>
<p>I wanted to make an e-bike using a treadmill dc motor. Is it possible if I hook it up with a lithium ion batteries for charging? will it work/.</p>
<p>I like you instructable. I've been searching for a way to alter the control board of the treadmill I bought to convert my lathe to a DC variable speed motor. So far no joy but your instructable has moved the search along, a little. Thanks for a good post and is there anyway to communicate with you directly. You seem to know what you're talking about. Thanks</p>
<p>Hey, I could use some expertise here. My treadmills digital consol died and I want to use the treadmill but not spend $100+ on a new consol. I am able to increase and decrease the incline but can't get the tread to move. I will attach the voltage diagram, I made a pwm circuit and tried putting the output on the blue wire hoping it would start the motor but it did nothing. How can I make my Nordic track c2200 work again?</p>
<p>I made a simple 555 timer control box and set up a web page with the build info here. It creates a pulse and send it to the motor controller. <br><a href="http://el34world.com/Misc/Cnc/TreadmillMotor1.htm" rel="nofollow">http://el34world.com/Misc/Cnc/TreadmillMotor1.htm</a><br><br>I also uploaded a you tube video of my controller in action<br>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zWk7b0snB9c</p>
<p>We had a similar problem about a year ago. When I removed one of the tread motor brushes, it appeared to spring free. I suspect that it had gotten stuck in its housing. I removed it, inspected the spring, brush and and housing. Everything seemed fine. Re-installed the brush and it's been working fine ever since. Hope that helps.</p>
<p>Just what I've been looking for!</p><p>All I need now is to figure out how to mount the speed pot to the foot pedal.</p><p>I have a sewing machine foot pedal I can use.</p><p>Any advice? Much obliged.</p>
<p>This looks exactly what I have except that the circuit board is fried. Where can I find a design to replace the board?</p>
<p>Hello there! Great material, thank you for posting this. <br><br>Would I be able to adjust the potentiometer to a very slow speed (for the purpose of a conveyor belt) or will I face electrical/mechanical issues with the other components in the treadmill's circuit?<br><br>I appreciate any help! <br></p>
<p>One more thing, I'm assuming that it would be better to find an older treadmill because it would be easier to take apart. Do you have any other recommendations in regards to other things I should keep in mind while shopping around? <br><br>Thanks! </p>
well, for rpm, you want it on the spindle or on the chuck, anyways<br><br>so, you might want to use something like this<br><br>http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Digital-Blue-LED-Tachometer-RPM-Speed-Meter-Hall-Proximity-Switch-Sensor-NPN-/181299070299?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&amp;hash=item2a3644455b<br><br>position the sensor in the right spot, and thats that :)
<p>I have a 2.5hp treadmill motor that I will be using to power my lathe/mill combo (the motor burned out last weekend in the middle of a project). Anyway, I would like to combine the lathe's capability of fwd/rev and the treadmill's speed controller. Here's what the wires look like coming from the switch to the motor through a junction box. I'm pretty sure that this is where the splicing is going to need to happen. </p><p><a class="drag_edit_photoset" href="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FJU/XCG8/HVGXR4GZ/FJUXCG8HVGXR4GZ.LARGE.jpg" rel="nofollow"><img class="IblesFileThumbnailExpanded" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FJU/XCG8/HVGXR4GZ/FJUXCG8HVGXR4GZ.SQUARE3.jpg" style="top: 0.0px;left: 0.0px;"></a></p><p> I don't want to run reverse polarity through the speed controller and fry something.</p><p>I want to do what this guy did (almost the same exact machine as mine but I have the older model with a mechanical chickenhead knob switch), but for the life of me can't figure out how he wired it up. If you could help me out with a simple hand drawn schematic or a link to someones page who has already managed it that would be great.</p><p><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="281" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/IDItLgwDrwo" width="500"></iframe></p><p><a class="drag_edit_photoset" href="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FJU/XCG8/HVGXR4GZ/FJUXCG8HVGXR4GZ.LARGE.jpg" rel="nofollow"> <br> <br> <h4 class="nonImageFileLabelExpanded" style="display: none;left: 0.0px;">lathewiring.png</h4> <br> </a></p>
<p>Well, is your treadmill motor a DC motor? if so, you'll need to wire a switch between controller and a motor. there is a good instructable here:</p><p>http://www.instructables.com/id/SIMPLE-Polarity-Reversing-switch/</p>
<p>I figured out the wiring. I was over thinking it.</p><p>Now I have to figure out how to convert the original treadmill board's reading of MPH to RPM. </p>
Any idea where to get a pulley to fit on a 17mm shaft? I guess I could drill out the center of 5/8 inch bore but I would think it would be difficult to keep it perfectly centered.
old,I know, but just in case... 17mm shaft is very common for USA car alternator pulleys, only it is often referred to as .67 inch. I just put one on my 17mm motor shaft and it was a great fit. I had to drill and tap for a set screw and fields flat on the shaft for the set screw to engage. runs great! marked as 2hp, so something less. ran a jointer and a planer with no problems.
<p>needs to be bored on a lathe, after being carefully centered in a 4 jaw chuck. </p>
I suggest you get a .040 thick shim and us a 3/4&quot; bore pully, find some aluminum sheet that thick and form a little ring so that it fit snugly between the parts. some similar diameter tubing might work, 035&quot;wall is common and might be close enough. Good luck. If you can make your project work with a 16mm it is almost identical to 5/8&quot;
<p>Can I wire some type of spdt switch in this set up, so I can reverse the drive motor. </p><p>I want to use it to power my metal lathe lead screw, but I need it to go in both derections. </p>
<p>anyone know if the mc-68 controller can take dc input voltage? i have 120vdc system and am looking to control speed of ironworker with it. . will it work?</p>
<p>I HAVE TREAD MILL EVERY STAT UP ITS TRIPPING AFTER 50 SECOND AND SYSTEM WILL NORMAL TO START I DO NO WHY?</p>
<p>I HAVE TREAD MILL EVERY STAT UP ITS TRIPPING AFTER 50 SECOND AND SYSTEM WILL NORMAL TO START I DO NO WHY?</p>
<p>Great treadmill repair and help here!</p><p><a href="http://www.treadmillsrepair.co.uk/2014/05/york-support-kxtl-230-board.html" rel="nofollow">http://www.treadmillsrepair.co.uk/2014/05/york-support-kxtl-230-board.html</a></p>
Hi, wonder if you have the pcb schematics for a motor controller, I found a 180v dc treadmill motor but I can't seem to locate a controller for one, I've decided that I'd be better off just building one. Any help would be greatly appreciated. My email address is kaighn80@hotmail.com <br>Thanks in advance.
I have a threadmill board 4f33 nordic track, reebock, sears bought on ebay trying to figuire where to wire the 5k potentometer? help Kernbigo
put it between either the input or uot put wire to the motor. an thier u go
Thank's For these PDF's the 1 for the VitaMaster really save my Bacon, I retrieved the motor, PWD an Control Panel but the idot tht I was/am I forgot to take pics to remind me how to wire everything back after tearing all the parts from the TreadMill. After stumbing upon your Thread I was lost, as I'm not an electrical engineer when it comes to figuring out how these things work outside wiring household wiring &amp; 220/240 Machinery&hellip;.Thank's for the wiring Diagrams !!! <br> <br>P.S I wired everything up lastnight &amp; did a Test run hoping nothing would burn up and all is good so far, I adjusted the Min/Max Speed adjustment &amp; Torque alittle bit lastnight as well &amp; if your willing to do so it won't hurt anything but I guess it all depends on what your Min/Max need for speed is &amp; the amount of Torque is required. <br> <br>The 1 item I'm going to test out this am. is removing tht Transformer between the Motor (Yellow Wire) in/Out of the Transformer into the PWD, I'm going to by pass this &amp; see how the motor/PWD work if nothing goes wrong&hellip;.I'm thinking this Transformer is merely a safety feature not sure&hellip;.?
I do not know what to do with 4 wires red black white and green , i want to put a cord to the wall what wires should i connect, this is a tread mill motor, i want to use it to roast a pork
Thanks a lot, I just have a question, are the field windings of treadmill motors connected in series, parallel or separate from the armature? How can I identify the connection of my motor?
add an elbow and a length of 3&quot;pvc and you have a machine gun for tennis balls
Use 1-1/2&quot; PVC 1120 instead of 3&quot;, and use golf balls instead of tennis balls, and you've got an undead-mulching emplacement gun for the Zombiepocalypse.
is that what i think it it is - that is sweet. i could use one to launch tennis balls for my dog to chase

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