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Step 4Make a Skateboard
Now you are ready to make the skateboard.
Cut seven 34inch x 11inch sheets of the maple veneer (the sheets need to be larger than the final board because there will be waste wood formed on the edges from the bending process). Three should have the grain going lengthwise (easier to bend the short way) and four should have the grain going widthwise (easier to bend the long way).(fig.4a) Be sure to sand off any chipping on the edges so that the wood is smooth.(fig.4b)
Take layer one (grain going widthwise) and apply a coat of wood glue over the surface all the way to the edges,(fig.4c) place layer 2 (grain going lengthwise) on top and apply glue over the surface all the way to the edges then place layer 3 (grain going widthwise) on top. Now stack the 3 glued layers centered on top of the mold.(fig.4d) You can put four tabs of masking tape on the edges of the wood to make sure it does not slide around when you put it into the bag.
Take a large, mesh dishwashing scrubby, unroll it(fig.4e)and cover the mold and wood veneers with the mesh.(fig.4f)This will allow air to flow around the mold and be sucked into the vacuum easily. You do not want to have any trapped air pockets. Slide the finished compilation of the mold, the glued veneers and mesh into the center of the bag-press and close the seal.(fig.4g) Hook up the vacuum and turn it on.(fig.4h) Keep the bag from sucking itself under the maple veneers by pushing the tips of the veneers down when you turn on the vacuum.(fig.4i) As the air is removed the bag will force the wood to conform to the mold. Once all the air is out gently hit the inner concave with the rubber mallet to help bring in the curve.(fig.4j)
Let the wood press for at least 4 hours before opening the bag and removing the bent board. Remove the mesh and masking tape. Now repeat the last steps to apply the final 4 veneers on top of the 3 first ones.
Once the curved board is dry, make a paper template of the shape you want the board to be(fig.4l) and trace it onto the curved wood.(fig.4m) Carefully cut out the shape with a scroll saw.(fig.4n) Refine the shape with files and sand paper and round all the edges.
Locate where you want your wheels attached and mark the location for the holes with a pencil on the bottom of the deck.(fig.4o)Drill the first hole then screw the truck in place. You can then use the holes in the truck as a guide to drill the next holes, guaranteeing they will line up properly. Once the holes are all drilled remove the screws and use a counter sink on the tops of the holes so that the screw will lie flush with the board.(fig.4p)
At this point you can paint and seal the board to help protect the wood and make it the colour you want.
The board itself is complete,(fig.4q) now you just need to apply the grip tape.(fig.4r) Don't peel all the backing off the roll and just stick it on because this will create bubbles. Instead, start at one end and peel off only a little backing at a time, working it down as you go.(fig.4s)
Once the grip tape is on,(fig.4t) you need to trim it to match the edges. Take an old piece of sand paper and rub the excess grip tape on the edges, this will soften it and leave a mark were you need to cut.(fig.4u) Take an exacto knife and run it around the edges.(fig.4v) If there is any little pieces remaining you can use the sand paper and sand them off. Next, feel out where the truck holes are on the top and stab/trim them out with the knife.(fig.4w)
Now attach your trucks and wheels... and you are ready to go.(fig.4z)
Cut seven 34inch x 11inch sheets of the maple veneer (the sheets need to be larger than the final board because there will be waste wood formed on the edges from the bending process). Three should have the grain going lengthwise (easier to bend the short way) and four should have the grain going widthwise (easier to bend the long way).(fig.4a) Be sure to sand off any chipping on the edges so that the wood is smooth.(fig.4b)
Take layer one (grain going widthwise) and apply a coat of wood glue over the surface all the way to the edges,(fig.4c) place layer 2 (grain going lengthwise) on top and apply glue over the surface all the way to the edges then place layer 3 (grain going widthwise) on top. Now stack the 3 glued layers centered on top of the mold.(fig.4d) You can put four tabs of masking tape on the edges of the wood to make sure it does not slide around when you put it into the bag.
Take a large, mesh dishwashing scrubby, unroll it(fig.4e)and cover the mold and wood veneers with the mesh.(fig.4f)This will allow air to flow around the mold and be sucked into the vacuum easily. You do not want to have any trapped air pockets. Slide the finished compilation of the mold, the glued veneers and mesh into the center of the bag-press and close the seal.(fig.4g) Hook up the vacuum and turn it on.(fig.4h) Keep the bag from sucking itself under the maple veneers by pushing the tips of the veneers down when you turn on the vacuum.(fig.4i) As the air is removed the bag will force the wood to conform to the mold. Once all the air is out gently hit the inner concave with the rubber mallet to help bring in the curve.(fig.4j)
Let the wood press for at least 4 hours before opening the bag and removing the bent board. Remove the mesh and masking tape. Now repeat the last steps to apply the final 4 veneers on top of the 3 first ones.
Once the curved board is dry, make a paper template of the shape you want the board to be(fig.4l) and trace it onto the curved wood.(fig.4m) Carefully cut out the shape with a scroll saw.(fig.4n) Refine the shape with files and sand paper and round all the edges.
Locate where you want your wheels attached and mark the location for the holes with a pencil on the bottom of the deck.(fig.4o)Drill the first hole then screw the truck in place. You can then use the holes in the truck as a guide to drill the next holes, guaranteeing they will line up properly. Once the holes are all drilled remove the screws and use a counter sink on the tops of the holes so that the screw will lie flush with the board.(fig.4p)
At this point you can paint and seal the board to help protect the wood and make it the colour you want.
The board itself is complete,(fig.4q) now you just need to apply the grip tape.(fig.4r) Don't peel all the backing off the roll and just stick it on because this will create bubbles. Instead, start at one end and peel off only a little backing at a time, working it down as you go.(fig.4s)
Once the grip tape is on,(fig.4t) you need to trim it to match the edges. Take an old piece of sand paper and rub the excess grip tape on the edges, this will soften it and leave a mark were you need to cut.(fig.4u) Take an exacto knife and run it around the edges.(fig.4v) If there is any little pieces remaining you can use the sand paper and sand them off. Next, feel out where the truck holes are on the top and stab/trim them out with the knife.(fig.4w)
Now attach your trucks and wheels... and you are ready to go.(fig.4z)
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When buying a board turn it upside down, take by the tail(nose) and hit against the ground; if you feel it's vibration - then it's "wet". If it just flaps - it's dry and will break fast. In theory, this ability to vibrate saves the board when it hits the ground (ask your physics teacher why ;) ).
I bet the skate shop dudes push boards that have been lying around for some time (and got dry) to n00bz (because they don't skate hard enough anyway) or to just random unlucky or dumb-looking ppl.
railing out of the skateshop stairs with the new board, and landing on the nose...
70$ wasted in 5 seconds... it's really sad... but the dude in the skateshop saw the whole thing and sponsored us the next week... less sad!! yay!
Polyurethane glues sand better and take finish better than aliphatics, and are much stronger. In addition, spraying a tough solvent-based finish - like urethane - over aliphatic resins will cause them to swell and bond poorly - so the edges of your board will look bumpy even if your sanding job is perfect (polyurethane / epoxy won't swell or react).
If you do use polyurethane glue, make sure to follow the instructions - specifically the part where it says to dampen the wood with water. Polyurethane glues need water to cure and make a strong bond - without it, they make very weak joints. Stay away from Titebond or Elmers brand polyurethanes - in my experience, they're quality is spotty at best. Gorilla Glue has never let me down....
Other than these minor comments - great instructable! :)