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Step 4Putting it all together
Once you have located the 'in' port on your jumper block and wired an RJ45 jack to it you are all set. Actually, you can just add another line with a jack and wire it into the block, since all the block does is tie all wires of "X" type to all other wires of "X" type for the other lines connected to the block.
One thing to realize is that if you DO have landline service already you should NOT plan on wiring your Xlink directly to this block. I'm not sure what would happen but it would not be good, voltage would leak from the Xlink onto the telco's line or vice versa and cause trouble.
I won't cover wiring an RJ45 jack since if you bought a jack it came with detailed instructions and even a small punch-down tool. Just remember that if you screw it up you can just snip off the bad bit and start over a little up the line, so make sure to start with a little more slack than you think you'll need.
Now, we have everything wired up, but it probably looks a mess with wires all over your closet. So, we'll make a simple little shelf system to hold everything and keep it up off the floor.
I made mine from some leftover OSB. I made a simple little shelf to hold a UPS. This is strictly optional, but handy if you want to be able to use the system even if the power goes out. You can get by with a really small UPS, in fact the little one I used was way overkill. It doesn't take much power to run the Xlink and the charger for your cell phone. This one will probably run it for at least a few hours.
I gave the shelf a nice coat of white latex paint so it would blend in better against the wall. Then I staples velcro strips to the shelf to hold everything in place. This takes a bit of test-fitting but works well. The only downside is the Velcro srips are surprisingly pricey for what is basically plastic fabric.
I even added a little RF "reflector" behind the Xlink. Bluetooth is a notoriously short-range protocol. My primary cell phone usually sits on its little charger station about 20' from the Xlink, with a few walls between them. I figured every little bit helps.
One thing to realize is that if you DO have landline service already you should NOT plan on wiring your Xlink directly to this block. I'm not sure what would happen but it would not be good, voltage would leak from the Xlink onto the telco's line or vice versa and cause trouble.
I won't cover wiring an RJ45 jack since if you bought a jack it came with detailed instructions and even a small punch-down tool. Just remember that if you screw it up you can just snip off the bad bit and start over a little up the line, so make sure to start with a little more slack than you think you'll need.
Now, we have everything wired up, but it probably looks a mess with wires all over your closet. So, we'll make a simple little shelf system to hold everything and keep it up off the floor.
I made mine from some leftover OSB. I made a simple little shelf to hold a UPS. This is strictly optional, but handy if you want to be able to use the system even if the power goes out. You can get by with a really small UPS, in fact the little one I used was way overkill. It doesn't take much power to run the Xlink and the charger for your cell phone. This one will probably run it for at least a few hours.
I gave the shelf a nice coat of white latex paint so it would blend in better against the wall. Then I staples velcro strips to the shelf to hold everything in place. This takes a bit of test-fitting but works well. The only downside is the Velcro srips are surprisingly pricey for what is basically plastic fabric.
I even added a little RF "reflector" behind the Xlink. Bluetooth is a notoriously short-range protocol. My primary cell phone usually sits on its little charger station about 20' from the Xlink, with a few walls between them. I figured every little bit helps.
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