Picture of Using Silicone Caulking to Make Molds
This Instructable should be used in conjunction with other silicone molding instructables.

Let's face it: molding is an expensive hobby. Materials aren't cheap, tools are expensive, and it takes time to make good molds. It's worth it though to see your army of mass produced thing-a-ma-jigs.

But let's say you only need to make one casting. Do you just want to try this hobby?, Do you really want to track down specialty silicone from obscure vendors in your area? Is it even available?

Here's how to make your own molding silicone from what you can find at your local big box store.

You will need the following materials:

100% Silicone caulking
Liquid Glycerine
Acrylic paint
Mineral Spirits
Plastic Cups and Silverware
Mold Release (Also Optional, but highly recommended)
UPDATE: Cornstarch helps molds to try faster.

UPDATE!: Thanks to JDUFFY54, he has provided the following helpful additions to this recipe.

JDUFFY54: I found that using 2 parts cornstarch, 2 parts silicone caulk, and one part mineral spirits works well, more than doubles the ammount of molding stuff you get per caulk tube, and dries compleatley in under an hour. Not to mention, cornstarch is cheaper than caulk, so half the mold is cheaper. I haven't done a lot with it yet, but I have made some test molds which turned out excellent.
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Do not use Silicone II. If it has gotten too cold or even frozen it will never cure. Use only 100% Silicone I. Only use acrylic paint. Because it is water based it can actually help to get water into all of the silicone. The over the counter silicone cures because of the moisture in the air. The point of glycerin is to get moisture inside the areas the air is not touching because it is harder for the silicone to cure once the outside has cured. I suggest using a little corn starch. It really speeds up the cure and makes the silicone harder when it cures depending on how much you add to your mixture. I have gotten very firm 2 piece molds doing that. Good luck!

Deth, thank you for your comment. I gave up on these molds because mine never cured. Now I know the reason, I used Silicone II. I'll give it another shot.

You're scary welcome artdollist.

jduffy542 years ago
I found that using 2 parts cornstarch, 2 parts silicone caulk, and one part mineral spirits works well, more than doubles the ammount of molding stuff you get per caulk tube, and dries compleatley in under an hour. Not to mention, cornstarch is cheaper than caulk, so half the mold is cheaper. I haven't done a lot with it yet, but I have made some test molds which turned out excellent.

when i tried this it came out the consistency of floam (airy playdough). im not sure if this is right... i would like to know if this is the consistency that it is supposed to be.

Roughly. I've usually found that a mixture of two parts spirits, one part cornstarch, and one part caulk usually turns out very airy and light, whereas the mixture mentioned above turns out more like a giant wad of rubber bands. Make sure that it dries fully first
+1 to this mix. I tried the other mix but it took all night to cure. This one takes about 10 minutes to start to solidify and is done in 30. It is a bit thick, so I put some in a plastic bag(like a frosting bag) and apply it to all the detailed areas before filling in the rest of the mold.
Oh, also, despite the fact that silicone cures with water, adding water to the mixture will NOT help it dry faster, in fact, in multiplies the drying time erroneously. I made some a few days ago with one part water, mineral spirits, cornstarch, and caulk. It still isn't even surface-hard after about 4 days.
Yeah, I also found that one part silicone, one part cornstarch, and two parts mineral spirits will pour pretty well (but needs to be mixed with a drill-dremel), but it takes about 6 hours to dry. I just made an axe mould with it. Unfortunatealy, since the mineral spirits evaporate, it is very foamy, and though it still gets detail perfectly, it is much lighter and does not work well to hold up large molds. If you use that method, for a large mold (more than two inches or so) make sure to reenforce with fiberglass (I use house air filters, since cheap ones run as little as 50 cents. Also, MAKE SURE TO USE BREATHING PROTECTION!!
__lane__11 days ago


I live outside the US, and I was wondering if I could use something else instead of the Mineral Spirits, since you can't bring it aborad and there's no exact equivalent here in my country (I've searched the internet). So, any suggestions for the thinning the silicone part? Thanks in advance

Aragh. So many variations. Equal parts silicone and corn starch and 1 part glycerine works?

arick1 month ago

Is the mixed between silicone and spirit dangerous ?

Lonecoon (author)  arick1 month ago

Not at all. It smells bad, but it's not dangerous.

arick1 month ago

Can I use soap for mould release ? thanks

crashaire3 years ago
Does anyone know if you could use these molds with plaster? for example if I was to make a mold of a sea shell and fill it with plaster for a plaster sea shell would that come out okay, or detailed enough, or is a shell too porous and/or the mold would not get all the little lines on the shell?

Usually with things with a lot of detail you want to mix up a couple of thin batches first and brush it on with a chip brush to make sure to get into all the details. The more layers the more detail you will grab out of the finished item. Just thin the mix out with a little more spirits. Then go in with a thicker top coat. And let it dry some between layers so you don't mess up the layers before hand. And if molding larger objects be sure to add in a layer of cheesecloth or burlap to give the mold some added strength. Just lay down a layer of silicone and put the fabric pieces down and use a brush to press them into the silicone.

Lonecoon (author)  crashaire3 years ago
I've gotten enough detail out of this to recast 25mm figures that were out of print, so a seashell should be no problem. The plaster will snap out easily, as it's just silicone.
jdunne5252 years ago
I tried this recipe and my mold is still gooey 2 days later.. What am I missing? Here's what I did:
3 oz of silicone,
9 drops glycerin,
3 drops paint,
1.5oz mineral spirits.

I poured (scooped really) it into a wood frame about 1 inch tall, 2 inches wide, and 4 inches across. I also made a small glob (maybe half an ounce) off to the side which also hasn't cured yet.

I had it in my garage for the first day and I thought maybe it was too cold or humid, so I brought it inside and it still hasn't cured after another day.
5 days after making this mold, I tried pulling it out of of the frame to see how it did. It was a horrible mess of what seemed like the consistency of sour cream. I threw it out and mixed up another batch with a different recipe that I got from this site:

Here is what I mixed up:
2 oz of silicone (I had extra last time so I figured I only needed 2 ounces)
12 drops of glycerin
NO paint and NO mineral spirits.

I then stirred it for about 5 minutes (similar to the last time) and glopped it onto my parts (Again about 1 inch deep). After 24 hours I removed the mold from my wooden frame and found that it did much better than the first batch, but still hadn't cured all the way through. I gave it another 15 hours (just a couple minutes ago) and found that it was closer to cured, but STILL wasn't fully cured.
I think pulling it out of the wooden frame helped to get some air in there, but even if I had given it a couple more days I'm not sure if it would have fully cured.
I've now ruined the mold as I pulled it apart when it was still gooey and wrecked the surface where the part was.

I'm not sure what I did wrong. Lonecoon said he's made molds an inch thick with no problem. Maybe its the silicone I'm using?
Here is what I'm using:
GE Silicone II Kitchen and Bath White 100% Silicone (home depot)
Barr Oderless Mineral spirits (home depot)
Humco Glycerin Skin protectant (Meijer)
Generic Acrylic paint (Meijer)

I've been reading on these sites:

They say NOT to use colored silicones and instead opt for clear, though they say the colored silicones DO work. Also they specifically call out GE Silicone II saying that it WILL work. I have seen some information saying that I need to get 100% Silicone RUBBER, not 100% Silicone. I guess I need to go back to the store and see if I can find that. I'm at a loss at this point. The only thing I can say is that most likely the mixture I made of Silicone and Glycerin WILL work as long as you do it in layers about 1/4" thick (boo).

You did the same thing I did; used Silicone II. If I hadn't read Deth becomes you's comment about not using it, I'd have never known why mine never cured. I'm about to try again using Silicone I.

I would use 2 parts cornstarch, 2 parts caulk, 1 part mineral spirits. I literally just finished making a few chess pieces from this (because its hilarous to see people expect marble and get rubber). It cures fully in less than an hour, AND doubles the ammout of material you get per caulk tube.
I believe your problem is related to the ingredients...specifically your use of Silicone want to use 100% silicone I only. I have used this method numerous times...all without fail....
jsrubianoch9 months ago

Hi I have a few questions, is this food safe? What are mineral spirits? Can this be made without the spirits?

No! The silicone itself can bleed off some nasty stuff to food. you will need to look into food safe silicone for that.
mineral spirits are used most as brush cleaner. you can get away without it, but it will result in a thicker casting material
cherbert18 months ago
so how well does this work for molding something like an ear? can i go so far as to use it like body double and do a face cast? will it burn the skin? how safe is it in that respect? thanks guys..
I would go with algenate for life casting. Its a little more expensive, buy not much. it's 100% safe to use on the body. its actually the same stuff dentists use for dental molds.
padbravo1 year ago
Sorry for asking... but, what are "MINERAL SPIRITS" ???

I does not live on USA, nor in english-spoken country (I live on latin america)... so... what is this? what is for? its a paint thiner?

Mineral spirits is a petroleum solvent product that is a mid quality thinner for oil based paints. Cheaper is "paint thinner." Tops is turpentine.

Tks for the data... I learned a new phrase...

Inresca9 months ago

CAn i use this to make chocolate and that kind of stuff?

Personally, i don't use mineral spirits or turpentine or paint thinners like some suggest with silicone and cornflour/cornstach mixes. I use a little vinegar to thin the mix. Works great, and isn't bad to breathe.
Can you tell us what the ratio is please? Silicone:Corn Starch:Vinegar. Does it still set quickly? What is the pot life?
I don't know pot life, as I always use all of my mix on whatever i'm doing. I try and mix in small batches, if I'm not finished and I need more, I just whip up another batch.
My ratios are here and there, not very accurate.
I put my silicone into a cup, the add cornflour at about 1/4th to 1/3rd of the mass of the silicone.
I add vinegar, until I get whatever consistency I want.
In a half filled cup, that might be about a teaspoon to start with, and then add more if I want a more runny consistency. You need to add slowly and not overdo it, otherwise for some reason the mic refuses to take more vinegar. I think this is due to the cornflour absorbing the vinegar, and not the silicone so much.
Adding more vinegar as the silicone goes off does NOT increase pot life. And these mixes do go off fast. The Cornflour, as well as adding to the mass of your mix, also ensure a thorough setting through the entire mix., allowing the air to reach everything, and let the acetic gasses escape.

If I'm making a mold of something, what I find works best is to do an initial coat of pure caulking silicone, as a very thin coat, and work this into any details with a brush, then do a Cornflour/silicone/vinegar mix and apply whenever you're ready.
Hope this helps!!!!
I also should mention I haven't really tried getting to that lovely "pouring" consistence yet. I tried using natural citrus cleaner and that worked a treat thinning-wise, but the cured product had been badly damaged by the power of the very effective citrus cleaner. Maybe a mix of vinegar and citrus cleaner would not damage the silicone so much. It was after all an industrial strength cleaner we use to remove shipping container paint of our hands. And boy does it do the job like nothing else!!!!

Thanks tapeandcardboard for all of your info. I have tried silicone with vinegar & corn flour, glycerine & corn flour, acetone & corn flour and just silicone with acetone. I can get an almost pourable mix but the end product and shrinkage is not suitable for my applications so I am unfortunately going back to using a brand of silicone mix; Barnes here in Oz. Here is some info that may be handy for you and others. I made a very good stirrer using two uposing M6 (1/4") wing nuts on a M6 (1/4") threaded bolt (you will need a long one). Screw one on upside down and then the other one the right way up & tighten it up againt the first one, then cut the head off the bolt to fit into your cordless drill. I also made a vibrating box to settle out the mixture by drilling a 6.5mm hole in the blade of a large cooling fan (similar to what is used in a computer) and fitting a short M6 screw & nut to it. The fan was then bolted to the box; the weight of the screw gave just the right amount of vibration. I also put a reptile heater in the box to speed up the setting time. I found to colour your mixture you only require in my case, one drop of "universal tint" that I purcased from my local paint shop. They use it for both acrylic & enamal paint and it comes in a variety of colours and you can purchase a very small quantity at a time. I will be trying the tint in my casting resin also.

Topteddy4910 months ago
I wanted a large washer. (3/4“ X 1" with 1/4 hole) I used a plastic tube (ex dental tablets tube) and McDonalds straw for mould. Took forever to cure (weeks :-( . I tried again this time making my mould from PAPER tube and 'straw'. It cured completely in little over a day. Water vapor from air seeps through the paper mould. I hope this is helpful for anybody using a straight forward shaped mould like mine (basically a cylinder). Could you try a thin paper mache mould for model figures?? Just a thought. loved the instructabe! I shall try glycerine in my next mould back to Mac's straw etc. See if I get a faster moulded washer. Well done!
Topteddy4910 months ago
great instruct able! could I ask, is the mould with acrylic etc etc above the same rubberyness as you would get from a straight forward 100% only silicone mould or is it harder/softer?
would the mold cure all the way if glycerine isn't added? provided more time is given?
i made two molds with what I had. The first one I used 1/2 cup clear silicone sealant, acrylic paint, and 1/2 shot glass of turpinoid, and 1/2 cup cornstarch. It worked great! after an hour it was cured. The second one I ran out of clear silicone so I used Sudbury Heavy Duty ELASTO Sealant. It is elastomer which I saw online was silicone. I used twice the turpinoid and less cornstarch. I eyeballed it which was a mistake. I used part of the resulting mixture as a second layer on the first successful mold and it cured fine. I used the rest of the second mixture on a different item and after 24 hours its still squishy and wet inside. why did it work as a second layer on the first mold but not at all on the second?
Excellent timing to see this one. Been trying to figure out a way to make a mold for a carbon fiber project I've had in mind.
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