Introduction: Using Woodfill 3D Printer Filament

Picture of Using Woodfill 3D Printer Filament

The 3D model used in this Instructable: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:446558

This filament can be tricky to use, and can cause some problems when trying to print. The following are some useful tips for using woodfill filament that I have found when using it.

Step 1: Printing With Woodfill

Picture of Printing With Woodfill

After playing around with Woodfill Filament I have found that the following settings work best for me:

Layer height: 200-250microns

Print Speed: 65-75mm/s

X-Y Movement speed: same as print speed (having a faster movement speed seems to stretch the filament for me and cause some gaps)

Heated Bed: 50C

Print Head: 205C

Filament cooling fan: on

Print Skirt: Double (I also feed some filament through the print head before starting to ensure no burning or clogging).

I have used these settings now for a few woodfill projects and found they work well and I get consistent results. Be aware that soon after printing in Woodfill you should unload the filament from your printer as it can burn and clog if sitting in the print head (happened to me recently).

Step 2: Cleaning Up and Finishing a Woodfill Print

Picture of Cleaning Up and Finishing a Woodfill Print

Unlike printing in other filaments such as Woodfill prints are easy to clean up using fine grain sand paper and small diamond files (be careful using files as they damage the print).

-A soldering iron set to a low temp (around 180C) can be used for patch repair with scraps or left over support material.

Changing your woodfill print's colour to look like a different type of wood is also pretty easy.

-I use watered down water based acrylic paints (used in painting miniatures). Water down a few drops of paint until it is see through, easy to test by brushing some over writing on paper (making sure the writing is clear under the paint).

-Simply give the print a light coating of the watered down paint (it will soak it up easily) and allow to dry for a couple of hours.

A great and cost effective way of sealing and finishing models is using a 2 part epoxy resin which is designed for fishing rod builders (it has about a 15min working time, 4-6hr set time. It needs to be done in a well ventilated area, use Acetone for clean up of brushes).

The final product looks like carved and varnished wood sculpture.

Comments

DIY Hacks and How Tos (author)2015-06-06

That's a great way to make decorations and art work for your house.

Thanks, its cool to play around with

Downunder35m (author)2015-06-06

Nice one!
Was always wondering if I should get some of this filament for some projects.
No I am convinced :)
Too bad there no way to get realistic looking wood grains printed, but with the stain and paint job it looks really good.

Boots86 (author)Downunder35m2015-06-09

Thanks, its cool stuff to play around with. Ans smells nice while printing.

paybak (author)2016-07-15

Can you give more details on what 2 part epoxy resin was used. I need to order some!!

Boots86 (author)paybak2016-07-15

The epoxy i used: http://www.motackle.com.au/jack-erskine-2-part-epo...

Here is another brand which should work just as well: http://www.mudhole.com/Flexcoat-Rodbuilders-Epoxy-Glue

Marina Sarara (author)2015-12-02

Thank you for you instruction. Could you tell us what 3D-printer you used and what woodfill? PLA or ABS?

Boots86 (author)Marina Sarara2015-12-02

My printer is a Flashforge Dreamer, the woodfill filament I use is Colorfab Woodfill (a PLA blend)

About This Instructable

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Bio: I have recently (this year) got into 3D printing and really enjoy making and modifying things.
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