V10 (vawt,savonius,vertical Axis,windturbine,ametek)





Introduction: V10 (vawt,savonius,vertical Axis,windturbine,ametek)

http://www.vawt.tk Here we go again, building another vawt.

With this one I am hoping to get the 100 watts.

Here is how I did it.

First we need:
--5 pvc tube. size 3"X10' (hardware store)$48

--3 bike wheels. size 12" (junk yard or ask your kid to use their bikes for a minute) maybe $5

--Ametek38 volt (ebay or surplus store) $60 (a problem with ametek, it needs 500 rpm to reach 14.1volt.

--Or buy windblue alternator (ebay) $250 it will only need 200prm to reach 14.1 volt

--1 square foot 1" plywood or anything 12" diameter (laying around)

-- 3 X 2x4 X 12' studs (from lumber store)$11

I am not going to name the tools, but I used the usual tools.


Step 1: PVC Pipe

1-I cut the tubes in the middle

2-Using a template, to where I want the hole so the pipe did not travel past the rim, I simply drilled the hole (as shown in the photos)

3-I laid the 1/2 pipes down alternating ends. We all know that the pvc has one end wider than the other to be able to fit to each other (phlange)

That was it for the pvc..really ...that was.


Step 2: Bike Rims

It takes 3 to tango on this one.

1-The rims are all the same size 12"

2-I removed the spokes on one side only

3-I left the top Rim as is and used the rim's axel as a bearing

4-I left the middel one as is

5-I drilled the bottom Rim out or cut off the axel cover including one end(shown in photos)
I then placed a piece of plywood on the bottom for support and cover for the generator. To find the centre, you simply use a thread and wind it through the removed spokes, and where they meet you will see a star and in the centre of the star is your mid point.


Step 3: The Frame

1- It is a 12' high and 2' wide box.

2-I drilled a hole on the centre bottom of 2x4 for the Ametek back end little shaft to sit in (only an Ametek owner will understand this step)

3-I drilled a centre hole for the top axel to screw in, for the top section.


Step 4: PVC Blades Assembly

Before you start you need to know that the spaces between the spokes vary closer to the centre, so use the wider side of the pvc on the more loose separation between the spokes on the wheel, that is why we Alternated the pvc end...remember.

1- Slide all bike Rims in place first

2-Screw the end rims first, one PVC at a time.

3-Once you finish the end Rims, then you screw down the mid one.


Step 5: Result and on Going Testing!

After all is good and it is spinning, I realised it can only go to a max of 350RPM before it starts to bulge.

The Ametek requires 500rpm to get 14.1 Volts.

Options are to gear the Ametek or to buy a WindBlue 12 volt alternator, or for me to make a Custom biuld Alternator.

So what Option do you think is the best?..

In total it cost me $125 plus screws and my time. Really cheap.





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    117 Discussions


    Question....who the heck is 'NORTHER MACJINERY WEB SITE', cannot find it anywhere. Was he talking about Northern Machinery, Or Northern Tools? Or china, perhaps?

    to keep the bulging from happening, try tying a string/wire around the middle of each half.

    1 reply

    To keep it from bulging use a threaded rod from top shaft to middle to bottom and leave shafts in wheels. Also the PVC or ABS could be cut in quarters and all spokes could be left and a little slit cut made into the blades to fit in between spokes. It wants to be as lightweight and as sturdy as possible.

    I see allot of PVC VAWT's with the blades crammed together like on this, I also see 55gal. drum ones that have two blades stacked up with more drums. Is one really better or are they just two different ideas.

    1 reply

    this one has wood airfoil blades and it works on lift and rpm
    the drum or savonius works on tork and most will not excceed 200rpm.

    lift is more effecient, but the rpm causes few issues so it has to be build well.


    I liked your project kinda neatly built but I'd like you to put up an instructable for your Column - R. The one you showed up in the video below, I may wanna give it a try :)

    1 reply

    the Column R has so much more testing.
    i cant promise a full instructable, and i am so bussy at this time.
    maybe in the future i will create it.

    i have about 17 vids on you tube to see the Evolution.


    sam chamas

    Looking at the photos, I'm thinking that you really cant turn the vanes any more towards the *outside* of the rim because you wouldn't have anything to attach to the rim. The way the vanes are constructed requires the orientation shown. If the builder had left a small ring at either end, that ring could be attached to the rim, allowing the vane to be rotated so that the concave face presents more 'windwardly', but this would make constructing the vanes MUCH more difficult, with little realized difference.

    Have you considered twisting the vanes along their length? As half a pipe, the vanes should have much greater flexibility around their vertical axis. You could rotate the rims w/respect to each other to twist the entire assembly. Would be interesting to see if it had any effect.
    I like this design a lot, Nice Job!

    1 reply
    THanks Phred, i have modified this project to resemble the v8-4". so i can adjust it back do to many hole in the vanes . in order to try your suggestion i have to start fresh. at this time i am busy with the Column-R project, it is a vawt that uses airfoil to create rotation. check it out

    regards sam

    Great design!
     I was noticing the other day that wind gets greatly accelerated when it goes around the corner of a building, so I thought this would be the ideal place for mounting one of these turbines. How much vibration do they make? Would it cause structural problems for a building it was mounted on?

    1 reply

    not much vibration, you can always use a rubber separator where it is fasten  to the building.


    Not sure if someone has suggested this or not but what if you add a couple more rims to help prevent the bulging at higher RPM? Would you also get a better result using ABS instead of PVC pipe? It's been a while since I have looked but I remember the ABS being thicker and harder/ stiffer. Maybe less flex involved. Great job on the explanation, thanks!

    8 replies

    while testing with My V10, I did try more rims, there was less bulge but not totally gone. that is why I developed the cigar shape. Not just eliminated the bulge, it also increased the rpm and blade area all at the same time. my V8-3" and v8-4" are a better design. thanks for you advice and great and helpful comment. best regards

    I wonder if having the additional rims (besides the original 3) is necessary. Perhaps just having a circle of wire wrapped around the intermediate areas where it is bulging would get it under control.

    hi faroun and thanks for the details instructables. Just a quicjk question to be clear, your v10 is not a "version 10" being the evolution iof v8.3 and v8.4?? I'm a bit lost between all your models and as it seems you did a lot of testing, which is the more efficient one? According to this last comment v8-4 is the best. Is that right? Thanks a lot

    the link and i are the same person. i was only pointing out that one of my turbine was put on display at GSD. greenenrgywindturbine.com ,wrapwind.com, collectwind.com, windhijacker.com, smoothwind.com, fawts.com, fhawt.com, windfriction.com, wintornado.com vawt.tk all my web sites. but instructables.com is one of my favoraite sites for others to see us and our creations. i hope you are learing few things. best regards Sam, Faroun, Emagnets, Vawt ....many names same ideas to share.

    or even just shortening the entire device and increase the surface area of your turbines radially (try using aluminum)

    The BEST way is to make your own alternator with an increased diameter of the stator/rotor with more number of magnets and use thinner coil (about 24AWG) with more windings so it will produce higher voltage in lower RPM. and connect them in parallel for more amperage.