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Step 10Cut the Metal Plates
I'm fortunate to work at a company that has a metal shop. I can get small scraps of aluminum for free, in various thicknesses. I decided to use 1/8" 6061 aluminum to make the plates. You can use whatever you've got, as long as it's strong enough to support the input and output jacks. Aluminum, brass, copper, steel or even some plastics would be fine.
The least expensive tool a hobbyist is likely to have that can reliably cut 1/8" aluminum is a bandsaw. I happen to have one that I scored on Kijiji for a good price. You can also use a scroll saw, but blades don't last long and it's hard to control (especially with 1/8" metal!)
Measure out the plates using the template as a guide, noting the positions of the drill holes. The power jack can be centered on the width of its plate, but the input and output jacks are offset a bit. Measure carefully! Mark the cut lines using a fine tip marker, and be sure to recall which side of the line you need to cut on. Otherwise, you may end up with a plate that is slightly undersized.
Before cutting, drill the holes using a regular drill bit. The input and output jacks I used needed 7/32" holes. I the power jack was 5/32". Since you may use different parts than me, measure the parts you've got to get a perfect fit.
The hole for the socket is too large to use a regular bit. Use a step bit if you have one. I really ought to buy one someday. I used a metal-cutting blade on my scroll saw instead. It worked, but it's very hard to control. 1/8" 6061 aluminum is pretty tough!
With the holes drilled you can cut out the parts. Work carefully, and be aware that the metal will heat up pretty fast. By the end of the cut the heat radiating from the metal was near my pain threshold. Dumb, I know! Use gloves to cut the metal if you need to.
The edges will probably be a bit rough and will have burrs. They may not even fit perfectly. Sand them smooth with sandpaper on a flat surface. Test-fit the pieces into the case often so that you don't over-sand.
Now sand the face of the plate that faces outward. I started with 320 grit sandpaper, sanding in a single direction at a 45 degree angle. I found that this looked nicer than circular swirls. Simply place the sandpaper on a flat, sturdy surface and rub the plate on the sandpaper.
Once the plate is smooth with an even pattern, replace the 320 grit paper with 2000 grit automotive sandpaper. Sand with the same motion in the same direction. The 45 degree pattern will still be visible, but the finish on the plate will be super-smooth and shiny.
Once the sanding is done, wash the plates under running water and dry them off immediately.
Note that sanding makes a lot of very fine aluminum dust. Not only does it get all over your hands, it can also contaminate the pristine finish on your case. Wipe the plates clean or wash them off before test-fitting. Also, don't eat or inhale the dust. It's probably really bad for you.
The least expensive tool a hobbyist is likely to have that can reliably cut 1/8" aluminum is a bandsaw. I happen to have one that I scored on Kijiji for a good price. You can also use a scroll saw, but blades don't last long and it's hard to control (especially with 1/8" metal!)
Measure out the plates using the template as a guide, noting the positions of the drill holes. The power jack can be centered on the width of its plate, but the input and output jacks are offset a bit. Measure carefully! Mark the cut lines using a fine tip marker, and be sure to recall which side of the line you need to cut on. Otherwise, you may end up with a plate that is slightly undersized.
Before cutting, drill the holes using a regular drill bit. The input and output jacks I used needed 7/32" holes. I the power jack was 5/32". Since you may use different parts than me, measure the parts you've got to get a perfect fit.
The hole for the socket is too large to use a regular bit. Use a step bit if you have one. I really ought to buy one someday. I used a metal-cutting blade on my scroll saw instead. It worked, but it's very hard to control. 1/8" 6061 aluminum is pretty tough!
With the holes drilled you can cut out the parts. Work carefully, and be aware that the metal will heat up pretty fast. By the end of the cut the heat radiating from the metal was near my pain threshold. Dumb, I know! Use gloves to cut the metal if you need to.
The edges will probably be a bit rough and will have burrs. They may not even fit perfectly. Sand them smooth with sandpaper on a flat surface. Test-fit the pieces into the case often so that you don't over-sand.
Now sand the face of the plate that faces outward. I started with 320 grit sandpaper, sanding in a single direction at a 45 degree angle. I found that this looked nicer than circular swirls. Simply place the sandpaper on a flat, sturdy surface and rub the plate on the sandpaper.
Once the plate is smooth with an even pattern, replace the 320 grit paper with 2000 grit automotive sandpaper. Sand with the same motion in the same direction. The 45 degree pattern will still be visible, but the finish on the plate will be super-smooth and shiny.
Once the sanding is done, wash the plates under running water and dry them off immediately.
Note that sanding makes a lot of very fine aluminum dust. Not only does it get all over your hands, it can also contaminate the pristine finish on your case. Wipe the plates clean or wash them off before test-fitting. Also, don't eat or inhale the dust. It's probably really bad for you.
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