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Step 14Wiring
Start with the tube socket.
By suggestion from an Instructables member on my other pedal, the ValveLiTzer Redux, I decided to fit a small 3mm amber LED into the hole in the middle of the socket to illuminate the tube. Do this by soldering a 510 ohm resistor to one of the LED's pins, close to the body. Fit the LED into the hole, then solder its pins directly to the contacts on the socket, with the LED anode going to V+ (pin 4) and the LED cathode (through the resistor) to ground (pin 5).
Pins 1 and 3, and 6 and 8, are connected together. Run a short jumper between them.
Several components can also be soldered directly from one pin to the other. Follow the schematic and solder some of the resistors and one of the capacitors in place, making sure there are no shorts.
Finally, solder long wires to pins 8 and 2, for connecting inside the case later on.
With the socket wired up, you can install it into the case. Make sure that pins 4 and 5 remain accessible!
Next up are the big filter capacitors. The ones I used (1000uF, 25V) happened to fit perfectly in the space on one side of the switch. Twist together the positive leads and solder them together. Connect the two ground leads together with a short piece of insulated wire. Then, hot-glue the caps into the space. Run the leads from the power jack to the capacitors, connecting the negative wire to the negative leads on the capacitor, and the positive lead to the twisted positive leads on the caps.
From there, proceed according to the schematic, running wires as neatly as possible to their respective destinations. The few components that still need to be added can be soldered directly to potentiometer pins or 1/4" jack pins, where necessary. Don't forget to run wires from pins 4 and 5 (V+ and GND) on the socket to the pins on the filter capacitors.
Quadruple-check your wiring, and use a multimeter (if you have one) to look for shorts and check for continuity.
By suggestion from an Instructables member on my other pedal, the ValveLiTzer Redux, I decided to fit a small 3mm amber LED into the hole in the middle of the socket to illuminate the tube. Do this by soldering a 510 ohm resistor to one of the LED's pins, close to the body. Fit the LED into the hole, then solder its pins directly to the contacts on the socket, with the LED anode going to V+ (pin 4) and the LED cathode (through the resistor) to ground (pin 5).
Pins 1 and 3, and 6 and 8, are connected together. Run a short jumper between them.
Several components can also be soldered directly from one pin to the other. Follow the schematic and solder some of the resistors and one of the capacitors in place, making sure there are no shorts.
Finally, solder long wires to pins 8 and 2, for connecting inside the case later on.
With the socket wired up, you can install it into the case. Make sure that pins 4 and 5 remain accessible!
Next up are the big filter capacitors. The ones I used (1000uF, 25V) happened to fit perfectly in the space on one side of the switch. Twist together the positive leads and solder them together. Connect the two ground leads together with a short piece of insulated wire. Then, hot-glue the caps into the space. Run the leads from the power jack to the capacitors, connecting the negative wire to the negative leads on the capacitor, and the positive lead to the twisted positive leads on the caps.
From there, proceed according to the schematic, running wires as neatly as possible to their respective destinations. The few components that still need to be added can be soldered directly to potentiometer pins or 1/4" jack pins, where necessary. Don't forget to run wires from pins 4 and 5 (V+ and GND) on the socket to the pins on the filter capacitors.
Quadruple-check your wiring, and use a multimeter (if you have one) to look for shorts and check for continuity.
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