Richard H. Siderits MD
Christoper Sereni MSIII
Varun Singh - Investigational Pathology Team
Removing bubbles, when you're making blanks to be used for machining plastic parts or casting models from Room Temperature Vulcanization (RTV) silicone rubber is an important step. The bubbles leave behind void spaces that can spoil an otherwise flawless model or part.
A "degassing apparatus" or Vacuum "Desgasser" takes bubbles out of plastic resin or silicone rubber, before it sets. Commercial degassers can be expensive.
This project shows you how to make a small vacuum degassing apparatus for under 20 dollars.
The only thing that you need to use the apparatus is a standard air compressor.
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Signing UpStep 1: Parts List:
2. Semi-rigid plastic hose and air-hose connectors - from the local hardware store (4 dollars).
3. Venturi-type vacuum pump* - from Harbor Freight (12 dollars).
4. Hot glue gun.
*Vacuum Pump specifications: A Venturi-type vacuum pump is connected to a compressor to supply the airflow that creates the vacuum.
Note: Air-Vacuum pump: Includes 1/2" ACME (R134a) connector. Vacuum level: 28.3" of mercury at sea level; Air consumption: 4.2 CFM; Air inlet: 1/4 NPT; Overall dimensions: 8-3/8" L x 5" W x 6-1/2" H
Weight: 1.75 lbs.











































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If you just want long duration, low vacuum then try using the old Water column trick first. Its allot quieter.
We used to call is a Wangensteen suction apparatus and it works pretty well for low viscosity fluid degassing.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wangensteen_suction
Best of luck!
The effectiveness depends on viscosity, area and thickness.
I tend to use this on shallow molds with larger surface areas. You can also hand pump and clamp the line for longer durations as well as pulse the vacuum. Pulsing changes the shape of a bubble in the medium and moves it to the surface faster.
Venturi systems or the hand pumps are never going to get anywhere near that level. Hose size will not change anything, but a tip to keep a soft hose from collapsing is to stick a length of spring inside. Alternately use a hard poly tube such as that you'd find on a drink dispensing machine.
At 30mmHg you're seeing about -0.6psi, not a lot at all but should be sufficient to pull bubbles from a sufficiently thin mix. Another option wound be to combine the vacuum method with pressurisation to approx 50psi, using a different container of course.
With the check valves, check what the cracking pressure (effort required to open the valve) is. If it's greater than, or at the limit of what you can pull than the pump will be working very hard just to overcome the spring tension on the valve and the valve will only open momentarily until it builds sufficient suction again.
A Norgren T51 check valve would be perfect. Tube/Tube push fit, 4-12mm tube, 0.01 bar cracking pressure, cheap.
Never even thought of it.
You can also pull a low steady vacuum with a Wangensteen or gravity water suction apparatus. It was used in medicine a long time ago to re-inflate a collapsed lung (See episode of M.A.S.H.). All you need is two 1 gallon jugs, tape, latex tubing and some water. You can pull a pretty good vacuum based on the height of the column. See below:
http://forum.motorcycle-usa.com/attach.aspx/11156/wangenstein.JPG