This is my solution to that.
It solves the messiness issue by containing my clothes, and I don't have to put my clothes away neatly.
Step 1: Supplies
- Bungee cord (I got mine at the army/navy surplus store, but you can order online here)
- Plywood (or something similar)
- Lengths of 2x4
- Wood screws
Step 2: The Design
Step 3: Some Math
- Length unstretched = (B/C) x √(½C2xD2)
- Length stretched = %70-99 x ( (B/C) x √(½C2xD2) )
Up 'n' over (the method I used, it saves length):
- Length unstretched = B+D+(Dx(B/C))
- Length stretched = %70-99 x ( B+D+(Dx(B/C)) )
When you go to buy your bungee cord, the length of cord you want to buy will essentially be this (however I did buy 9 feet more than my initial estimate of 21 feet, just to be sure). Another thing to keep in mind is that the stretched versions do pull on the sides and will deform them if you don't reinforce them with something.
Step 4: Measure Once, Cut Twice. Wait, Is That How It Went?
- 3 - 4'x16"
- 1 - 20"x16"
- 1 - 1'x16"
- 2 - 19" (19"+combined thickness of plywood)
- 2 - 16"
Step 5: Pre-assembly Time!
Step 6: Screwing in All the Right Places
- tip: to prevent splitting by screwing near the end of the board, go in on an angle to cross multiple grains so as not to split the ends
- tip: screwing the plywood together is tricky, screw in as straight as you can and set your drill to the lowest settings it has, this should prevent the screw from slipping/spinning (which would kindof kill said hole) once its all the way in and should prevent the plywood from doing all sorts of counterproductive things
Step 7: Bungee Time! You Know, Bungee Cord, the Springy Rope the Crazy People Use When They Want to Jump Off Bridges...with the Intent to LIVE
For the length of bungee I got, I should have set it up for the up 'n' over method, which both sides would be parallel, meaning the holes start at C (2") below the top on both sides and repeat every 2" (or C).
Starting the bungee run, the back end of the cord needs a knot, preferably a double knot, and tight, as tight as you can get it, I used my Leathermans pliers to pull it tight. You also need to fuse the end with fire, much like you would with rope, to keep it from fraying. That should be quick and painless. Take the opposite, un-knotted end of the bungee and seal it, then thread it through the first hole. Start at the bottom and work up, it will create less tension on the boards at the top.
- Zig-zag method: thread through the bottom two holes and pull all the cord through (the bungee wont go through much more than 3 or 4 holes before it just wont go) then, much like a typical shoelace, go over to the opposite hole above the first, go through it, cross over to next hole up on the opposite side, and repeat all the way to the top.
- Up 'n' over: Thread the cord through the bottom two holes, pull the cord all the way through (you'll have to do that all the way up :/ just like the zig-zag), go up one hole, repeat all the way to the top.
- To get things taught, start at the bottom. Pull the bungee to the tightness/tension you want, pull the excess cord through the hole, and repeat.
Step 8: Don't You Just Love It When a Plan Comes Together?
Step 9: Things I Would Do Differently Next Time
- I would space the bungee more than 2" apart since its awfully close, maybe 3" or 4".
- I would make it more than 16" wide, at least 2 feet should do it.
- More than one open side for more visibility of clothes.
- Add reinforcement at the top to prevent collapse due to the tension created by the bungee cord.
- I wouldn't make it as deep.10"-12" deep might work beautifully.
- I might separate clothing types, pants, shirts, socks, underwear.
- I might have the compartments shorter, but raised up off the floor so I wouldn't have to get on the ground to get to stuff.