Introduction: Very Tiny Steampunk Style Goggles for Very Tiny Fascinator Hats.
IT occurred to me that many people evidencing a steampunk style wear a top hat or similar with a pair of goggles conveniently stashed around the crown. Indeed I have done so myself...
It also occurred to me that many ladies wishing to evidence the same style sport rather natty little hats like this one.
So, clearly we need rather natty little goggles to go with the natty little hats.
The outer surrounds are laser cut 4mm plywood, the green "lenses" and the orange sighting panel are laser cut 3mm acrylic
The copper lens surrounds/side panel are cut from 15mm copper plumbing pipe, filed into shape and drilled with a 4mm hole to accept a brass rivet which holds the leather strap in place.
The nose bridge pieces the bracket for the sighting panel are 1mm copper wire from a discarded scrap piece of heavy duty mains cable.
Cutting pattern for the frames is attached here. They are scaled for 15mm copper plumbing pipe.
If you use 1/2 inch, 3/4 inch or 20mm conduit you'll need to scale the file accordingly.
lenses needed to be cut at 13.5mm diameter on my cutter, your mileage may vary.
Cut a strip of leather about 8mm wide just a little longer than needed to go over your chosen tiny hat.
A piece of copper plumbing pipe about 6 inches long, cut with a hacksaw at about 45 degrees giving two pieces with slanted ends.
those ends filed to a curved shape (see photo2) and drilled with a 4mm drill, or whatever size your rivets are.
Then the ends cut off square to the pipe leaving about 4mm of pipe to slot neatly into the 4mm plywood of the frames.
The reason it's done like this is to leave some pipe as a handle for as long as possible, trying to use a file on a tiny bit of metal is no fun at all, and it's all too easy to crush the pipe in a vice trying to hold it firmly.
Cut small holes in the ends of the leather strap to accept brass rivets, feed brass rivets into holes and trim strap accordingly, use a drop of superglue to hold rivets and strap together.
Offer up rivets to copper side piece and test fit. If your rivet pliers canbe used to squash the rivet do so. Mine could not and I ended up grinding the rivets shorter and fixing them with more superglue.
Press fit lenses into copper tubes and again with the superglue, tiny drops from the back of the lens will soak into any tiny gap and hold the lens fast.
Set aside lens/strap assembly for glue to dry.
Cut to pieces of copper wire and bend into U shapes. Take care that the width of both shapes is the same.
Run 1mm Drill through laser cut holes in lens surrounds just to make sure of hole diameter.
Press fit copper U shapes into holes position as required and superglue to make solid.
use a fine needle file as needed to smooth off any protruding copper wire from the back of the frames.
Holding the nose pieces in a pair of narrow nosed pliers lightly coat the front of the frames in superglue
or other varnish like substance. You could even use varnish.
Press fit the lens assemblies into the frame making sure to get them alighted correctly, glue in place.
Hold the sighting plate firmly in a vice and drill a 1mm hole through the acrylic. This will need to be done with reasonable care.
Run the drill through a few times to give a little clearance for the wire to act as a hinge pin.
Cut a piece of wire to act as a bracket, allowing a little extra length, bend to shape, press fit into one of the side holes in the frame and superglue in place.
Slide sighting plate onto bracket wire, bend protruding extra wire to hold sighting plate in place and clip off any excess.
You're done. rejoice!
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Please be positive and constructive.