Wherein Ben endeavors to explain one of his methods for inlaying non-ferrous metals into steel for knives and swords.
Step 1: Layout
The first step is to mark the pattern on the steel. I like to do the layout in pencil.
Then I go over it in pen.
Step 2: Tools
The gravers I use are (top to bottom): 1/8in flat, 1/16in flat, 3/64in flat, 1/16in V graver, knife graver, and round punch. For most of the work I drive the gravers with a hammer.
Step 3: Test piece
This shows the test piece that I did to try the techniques for this blade. Doing a test piece allows you to make sure that all your tools and materials will work with each other.
Here is the clamp set-up I use to hlt the piece. The 2x2in oak board is held in the vice and the C-clamps hold the blade. I use a towel for padding to help prevent scratching and to further secure the blade
Step 5: Engraving
I use the 1/8in graver to cut the channel for the twisted wire border. Different patterns can be achieved by varying the depth of the cut.
Step 6: Engraving
Next, using the V-graver, I engrave the trinity knot and herringbone lines.
I cut the runes using the 3/64in flat graver.
Step 7: Under cutting
All the areas to be inlayed must be undercut or the inlay will work loose. I do this on the longer lines with the knife graver held at an angle. The finished channel should look like this /_\.
Step 8: Under cutting
For the shorter lines I use one of the flat gravers to undercut the edges. The undercutting is the most critical part of the process. Done right, the rest is easy and the wires fly into the grooves. Done wrong, the wires will not stick and must be scraped out and the undercut redone.
Step 9: Under cutting
The undercut notches on the bottom of the wider channels help lock the wires down.
Step 10: Under cutting
Here is the blade with all the under cutting done.
Step 11: Forming the wires
For the runes I first draw the wires out and square them. I use pliers
for this because I don't have a draw plate.