Step 9:

Now we need a way to keep the LED from shaking all over the place inside the signal body. All I had on hand was some cardboard, but i'm going to go back and use some heavy duty rubber, and glue it all in. I just needed something temporary. For now, you get the picture.

Whatever you choose though, it needs to fit snug inside the space the bulb use to take up.
<p>Try to make a you tube video for other people to benefit from this as i was thinking a while ago to do exactly the same thing since i dont see any better solution</p>
<p>Great instructable. I have to agree with the comment below about using more LEDs. I am not sure a single LED would be visible enough to see during the day. I think using multiple LEDs would do the trick.</p>
<p>thats great do you know can you use more LED's instead of a resistor and or what resistor do you use ? </p>
<p>this is a great instructable, I had the same issue on my 1982 suzuki but a site www.sperbrightleds.com has 6v led replascement bulbs for automotive lights I haven't found a really good option for the headlight other than adding an auxiliary light</p>
Nice job.<br> <br> You might want to remember that old style blinkers relied on enough current flowing through the bi-metal blinker in order to make it work correctly. You may need to make a solid state blinker circuit in order to get things working correctly again. At least in '74, the turn signal switch was manual on/off, so it should be easy enough to make a 555/556 based circuit do what you want on 6 volts.<br> <br> Is the LED light as bright as the old incandescent one? Seems to me you might need more LED's to make it up to snuff for inspection. More LED's will also help in drawing more current through the original blinker, maybe enabling you to retain the original circuit.<br> <br> Qa
WOWWWW you know your stuff... I have the same motorcycle, and need to do the same thing.... how would i wire the light including more leds? also what resistors for the 6v current? and should i do parallel wiring? so many questions!!!
Sorry it took so long to get back to you, but life has been<em> really </em>busy.<br> <br> The easiest way to learn is to look at some of the on-line calulators. Try <a href="http://search.yahoo.com/search?p=LED+calculator" rel="nofollow">this search</a>. one that popped out at me was <a href="http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz" rel="nofollow">this one</a>.&nbsp;It will let you put in all the necessary info and design an appropriate circuit with 3 possible graphic outputs: ASCII, Schematic or Wiring Diagram. Choose the type you need or keep switching between to see what works best for the situation.<br> <br> Good luck with your retrofit.<br> <br> Qa
thanks for checking out the article. You raise good points, i didnt want to stray too far away from the main topic, but im using an arduino to power the lights (as well as other functions, engine temperature readings, fuel and oil levels, etc). i also thought about using a 555, but tieing the lights to the arduino helps keep everything all together (for me anyway).<br><br>as far a brightness goes, these things are bright. almost too bright to where if you catch the angle just right, it hurts a little. im actually going to have to either sand down the top of the led, or dab a bit of silver paint over it.
It's good to see a retrofit of new tech with the old. I see the arduino in the opening pic now.<br> <br> The directionality of the LED is what had me concerned about the brightness. You need to have as much of the lense lit as possible. Sanding the LED lense or a dab of chrome paint on the end similar a Halogen bulb, something to diverge the light.<br> <br> I'd like to see the&nbsp;finished result. Here's to then!<br> <br> Qa<br>
cool job and great Instructable!
thanks! :)

About This Instructable


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Bio: My name is Matt; I like making stuff, and retro tech. I'm not a professional engineer, I just play one on TV.
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