On May 11, 2015 vulcaman published the Vulcanus V1 3D printer on his instructables channel. Coincidentally reprapalgarve was working on a coreXY project and when we saw Vulcanus V1 we immediately jumped on to the wagon.

With the experience we had scaling up the Prusa i3 (called Mega Prusa i3) we redesigned the Vulcanus V1 parts in order to allow 32x32x32, 42x42x42 and 52x52x52 (this last version still untested).

The Vulcanus Max 30 has a 32x32x32 build volume, E3D V6 lite extruder, auto bed leveling and MK8 Direct Drive system.

The Vulcanus Max 40 has a 42x42x42 build volume, E3D V6 lite extruder, auto bed leveling and MK8 Direct Drive system.

In summary, Vulcanus Max is a scaled up version of Vulcanus V1 with structural upgrades, all metal direct drive, auto-bed leveling, LM10UU bearings and LMK12L Z bearings and colorful lava like acrylic panels.

Have a look at the video of the V MAX in action at the Maker Faire Lisbon 2015:

Step 1: Open Design - Vulcanus Max 30 and Vulcanus Max 40

A RepRap 3D printer is always open design so please feel free to download the sketchup file. All dimensions are in 1 to 1 scale.

There are 2 versions we have tested, and are working 100%. Vulcanus MAX 30 and Vulcanus MAX 40, we are still working on the Vulcanus MEGA MAX (52x52x150) so keep tuned in.

Use the sketchup for dimensions, and the Vulcanus V1 instructions to guide your way through the build process.


Step 2: How to Build the Vulcanus MAX 30 Anbd MAX 40

In order to avoid repetition, this instructable will not contain a copy of the V1 instructions, so please visit the Vulcanus V1 for all instructions.


Start off by , opening the 3D sketchup in the previous step. There you can find all dimensions from smooth rods, aluminum profiles, and acrylic panels. Use the sketch as much as possible to obtain all relevant information.

The build process is the same as V1, using materials and parts from V MAX.

Step 3: List of Diferent Parts From Vulcanus V1

Due to many requests Here is BOM made by user weissman258:


Vulcanus Max 30 and 40 are upscale from Vulcanus V1 3D printer, so most of the parts are different:

- Z smooth rods are 12mm instead of 8mm (for rigidity).

- XY smooth rods are 10mm instead of 8mm (for rigidity).

- XY bearings are LM10UU instead of LM8UU.

- Z bearings are LMK12L instead of LM8UU.

- Extruder is MK8 Direct Drive instead of original Vulcanus V1 extruder.

- All parts where redesigned to allow bigger bearings and bigger rods, with the exception of the corners and the Z motor holders.

- The aluminum print plate is 5mm thick.

- Red acrylic panels instead of metal ones.

- LED strip on top and in the bottom of the second base.

- The V MAX's use inductive sensors for autobed leveling.

- Using repetier firmware instead of Marlin firmware (because i am more used to repetier).

Step 4: Download All Files From Thingiverse

All files are available on thingiverse:

All parts fit both Vulcanus MAX 30 and 40.


Step 5: Silicone Heat Bed

The VMAX's have a 40x40cm 800W silicone heat bed. The bed is attached to the aluminum plate using height temperature silicone. After ataching the silicone to the aluminium, you need to wire the cables to the Solid State Relay.

Step 6: Solid State Relay

The solid state relay function on the printer is to turn the silicone Heat bed on and off.

Step 7: Double Extruder

Still testing this.

Step 8: COREXY Bearing Updates

Vulcanus 1 uses 2 bearings on the XY system, this solution allows the belts to move freely on the bearings, but because of this freedom, the belts touch each other while the XY is working. To solve this problem, we have discovered that only one bearing work perfectly and allows the system to avoid the belts touching.

Step 9: Some 3d Printed Parts

Here are some photos of the first prints. More to come soon.

Step 10: More Photos of the Machines

Step 11: Repetier Firmware for Arduino Mega

Please download the firmware for the VMAX 30 or VMAX 40 according to your machine. The firmware is Repetier firmware.

NOTE: USE Arduino IDE 1.0.5 r2

Step 12: Vulcanus Max 30 and MAX40 at the Lisbon Maker Faire 2015

The Vulanus Max 30 and 40 where at the Lisbon Maker Faire 2015, the feedback was very positive, at the evening the LED's where a jaw dropper.

We finish off this instructable thanking all reprap community and a special thanks to vulcaman for publishing the Vulcanus V1.

<p>I've put together a preliminary BOM for the Max 40. If anyone wants to use it or double check my work, you're welcome to. </p><p>I did not include the aluminum plates or silicone adhesive as I plan to purchase those locally.</p><p><a href="https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1T92dD3bwWbBvbSqHLHXwnpzYpWnXckJsYBVqjT3gBl4/edit?usp=sharing" rel="nofollow">https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1T92dD3bwWb...</a></p>
<p>I started one about two weeks ago and everything is now delivered. I was going to wait to publish my BOM after I finished making the printer to make sure I had everything on there but I don't see much difference from yours.</p><p><a href="https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1_tNhDsJq-q7tG9WfVl7HR95GwVrflmI9fnxGpamQn7A/edit?usp=sharing" rel="nofollow">https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1_tNhDsJq-q7tG9WfVl7HR95GwVrflmI9fnxGpamQn7A/edit?usp=sharing</a></p>
<p>Not sure what psu you're using, but I have that same heater in my BOM and I'm thinking that it might need to be swapped out unless I can find a decent 24v psu. Let me know how your build goes.</p>
<p>I have an ATX PSU with 12v up to 19 Amps. As far as the heater goes, I think it is 110v AC, so you would have it go through the relay (hence why it is a DC-AC relay) then it would plug into the wall. The relay gets triggered by a DC signal coming from the RAMPS board.</p>
<p>Im looking at both of your BOM and there are some noticeable differences. For example the Aluminum plates are different why is that? whose would be more accurate to follow? TIA</p>
I've seen Aldric mention a few times that he uses a 5mm and a 2mm plate. I believe he was using the 5mm one on top (40x40cm) and 2mm on bottom (50x50cm). I saw where someone cut the bottom plate and just used the corners to attach to the top plate in order to reduce weight, if you do that then 5mm would probably be fine.
<p>Actualy i used a 5mm top plate and a bottom 3mm plate. But diferent many solutions also work.</p>
<p>How long does your 5mm Plate take to warm up?</p>
<p>Great BOM! will you have an album somewhere with your progress? also how did you order from misumi-ec the direct sizes? I want to make sure i do it right before ordering thanks!</p>
Hey could share the blind joint details I couldn't find them anywhere my thingiverse I'd is if same name
<p>NICE thank you, i will put this up in the insctructables and mention your name.</p>
<p>Crap this came about 2 weeks too late for me! Haha good finds, would've saved me some money and a lot of hassle. Thanks for posting</p>
<p>is there a BOM for the Vulcanus Max 30 please?</p>
<p>Hi All,</p><p>I'm a long way in building my Vulcanus Max 40 but getting stuck on choosing the bed materials</p><p>I had an old RapMan printer laying around in pieces :-D from which I reused the 12mm rods for X and Y. This brought me to a bed size of 450x420mm. Now I have to choose the correct materials for the bed:</p><p>Currently I'm printing on glass with kaptop tape which works really well, but... I understood auto bed levelling with an inductive sensor does not work through glass.</p><p>My plan was the following: </p><p>- 5mm aluminium fixed build plate with a 400x400mm 600W 220v silicone heater<br>- 2mm aluminium top plate with kapton tape (fixed with 'office-clamps')</p><p>Is the grade: EN AW-1050A H14/H24 sufficient? Should I worry about warping while heating the bed?<br>Is 2mm enough for the top plate?<br>Won't this be to thick to heat?<br>I know machine plate (casted aluminium) is the absolute best, but it also brings me far over budget. I'm looking for a good alternative.</p><p>Thanks!</p><p>Wouter.</p>
<p>I use a 3mm top plate on my Mega Prusa i3 and it works fine :) so no worries.</p>
<p>You could use a capacitive sensor </p>
hey Wouter.<br>I have the same setup. 5mm heated aluminium plate. on top 2mm alu plate with kapton an hairspray for abs and only hairspray for pla. <br>only the first time the top plate did bend. but that was my mistake....heater plate was hot already top wasn't. <br>don't buy cheap hairspray buy L'Or&eacute;al. other stuff doesn't work.
<p>I the final stages of building a VMAX 30. Calibrating the motors and having issues with the z axis. The motors work fine when not connected to the lead screws. When they are connected they seem to have issues pushing the bed up. What am I doing wrong? Is my bed to heavy for the motors?</p>
<p>hi</p><p>are you sure lead screw and motor saft is aligned smoothly?</p>
<p>what is the cost on this badboy in general</p>
<p>Awesome work!</p><p>This might be a dumb question but maybe someone experienced the same problem - seems like the hole to hold the M3 nut on the printed parts is too small so my hex nuts aren't fitting (no pun intended), seems like it's off by just 0.5-0.7mm. I thought it was a calibration issue with my printer but I think there's a very small room for error after measuring the hex hole size in the STL and the physical nut. I can probably &quot;solve&quot; this by using longer M3 bolt and ignore the designated holes but I wonder if I'm missing anything (or using the wrong nuts)</p>
<p>If the printed parts hole is to small its a good thing, use a lighter to heat the nut up a little and press fit it into the part that way your guaranteed it will not move when you tighten it up.</p>
slightly different. bowden extruder. tmc2100 stepstick for xy.<br>z axis with lead screw. <br>repetier 0.92 z endstop is the inductive sensor.
<p>Any Update on the MegaMax? I am puting together a parts list to do one at that same size. 52x52x150</p>
<p>Why are the aluminum extrusions that the motors and bottom panel nessicary, couldn't those be removed and the motors mounted to the upper extrusions? Thank you for the help</p>
I finally got around to posting on my vulcanus printer, I finished mine about two weeks ago and its running perfect on marlin firmware. The bed size works out to 350mm square along with a 500watt 240volt silicone heater it did take awhile to get it setup right for the auto bed level but now I wouldn't use it without it. Thanks for a great design.<br>Keith.<br>
<p>what firmware did you use on it? can you share it with me?</p>
<p>I have emailed you the firmware jsanz sanchez Good luck testing it out on yours.</p>
Could you me send me too?
Sorry for the delay do you still need my firmware for your printer ?<br>If so send me your email and I will forward you a copy.
I used marlin firmware and I've modified the menu's to add a few extra features, I don't know if you can private message here if not contact me through thingiverse ( same name as here) and I'll send you a copy.<br>your wiring must match mine as in orientation of your steppers for it to work though.<br>
and maybe share the design for the smart lcd. I have the same.......<br>I use repetier as firmware. still work in progress....almost finished.
Sure no problem do a search on eBay for pond hose I used the 20mm internal diameter about &pound;5.00 for 2 meters
<p>hi, i am struggling with firmware setup, could you please share your firmware with me ?</p>
You will need to give me your email address and I'd be happy to forward you my firmware to try out. You can contact me through thingiverse I use the same username as here.
I couldn't get Repetier to run well on mine and Tbh I preferred the look and use of marlin on the bigger screen. It worked out easier to tweak all the settings to once I figured out what I needed to change.<br>The LCD mount is thingiverse item 817274 I think I used a 75mm M4 bolt for the hinge on mine
<p>KF52t, would you mind sharing your firmware with me? I bought all the hardware and I am finishing the prints at home, but if you have a BOM you used or a list of hardware (if it differs from this one: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1_tNhDsJq-q7tG9WfVl7HR95GwVrflmI9fnxGpamQn7A/edit#gid=0 ) I would appreciate if you can share that with me as well :) Thanks a lot! </p>
Fred if you contact me through thingiverse I will send you a copy of my firmware. I use the same username just private message me your email and I will forward it to you, I'll look over your bom but I think we will all be using slightly different sizes due to the original build only offering a sketch up file to reverse engineer for the sizes. I'm very happy with mine now its all dialled in, its printing better than my original CTC printer and much faster too.
<p>Can you upload the Marlin Firmware you use Please ?</p>
<p>I have sent you the firmware via your email, Hope it works for you.</p>
<p>Thanks you , It's much better than repetier , work like a charm :)</p>
I'm pleased the marlin firmware is working for you, my vulcanus prints far better than my ctc /flashforge in terms of layer height and the quality of the prints.
<p>hi, i am struggling with firmware setup, could you please share your firmware with me ?</p>
I could if you can forward your email address. I'm using what the build states for electronics, if yours is the same my firmware should work on yours
can u share what cable guide tube u used on the carriage? it looks so nice and will work probably better than mine.
<p>Very nice, congratulations :) thanks for sharing the photos.</p>
Yeah I'm pleased with the outcome, still lots to finish yet like making the top to seal it all up for ABS prints and adding bifold doors to the front/sides. here's one more pic that gives an idea of the parts for the vulcanus. I did the printed parts on my CTC/Flashforge clone In Luminous blue Abs at 50% infill.<br>
So you also used the Nema 17 Stepper Motors and the Arduino Mega and the other Parts? the only need to change is the things you described?
<p>Hello JohannK2,</p><p>Yes that is correct i used the following items that are different:</p><p>- NEMA 17 - 4800gr/cm - 1.2A (special motor with low Amps high Voltage same torque)</p><p>- Microstepping drivers A4988 (Low Amps less problems) </p><p>The rest i have put in the description. </p>
<p>does the nema 17 motor have to be bipolar? or is there any specifications needed?</p>

About This Instructable




Bio: Do not follow the ideas of others, but learn to listen to the voice within yourself. Aldric Negrier aldricnegrier
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