In this instruction I will show you, how to make a very professionel 3D printer with a low Bugdet of less than 300€.

I'm 16 Years old and I made everything by myself. The "Vulcanus V1"-3D-Printer is based on CoreXY. Which stands for high precisious movement.


- Dimensions: 44cm x 44cm x 60cm

- Build Volume: 20cm x 20cm X 26cm

-Travel Speed: 300mm/s tested but you can also try higher values

- Resolution: up to 0.05mm

- Electronic: Ramps 1.4 with TMC2100 1/256 microstep Motordriver


Update: for those who want to build the Vulacnus Max. I published reworked parts for a better and professionel look/fit.


Vulcanus Max


Update: I published reworked parts for the Vulcanus V1. Please have a look at step 16:

Vulcanus Rework 2016

Step 1: Parts: Mechanics


-16x 40cm Aluminium Extrusions 20x20mm smt-montagetechnik

-4x 60cm Aluminium Extrusions 20x20mm

-2x 29,5cm Aluminium Extrusions 20x20mm

-2x 28cm Aluminium Extrusions 20x20mm

In Total: 31.64€

Nuts and Bolts:

-160x M5 Extrusions Nuts which you can made out of a normal Hex-Nut( see pictures) kleinteileversand

-120x M5x10mm Bolts kleinteileversand

-30x M5x12mm Bolts kleinteileversand

-8x M5x25mm Bolts kleinteileversand

-2x M8x 31,5cm threaded rod kleinteileversand

- some M4 Hex Nuts from your local hardware store

-100pcs M4 square Nuts from your local hardware store

-100pcs M4x 6mm Bolts from your local hardware store

In Total: 14.78€ the things from the internet + 8€ from your local hardware store


Linear Motions:

2x 33cm 8mm smooth rods kleinteileversand

2x 34,7cm 8mm smooth rods

4x 36cm 8mm smooth rods

16x LM8UU Bearings Ebay

17x 624 Bearings Aliexpress

2x GT2 Pulley + 2m GT2 Belt Aliexpress

2x Axis coupler 5mm to 8mm Aliexpress

Mk7 Drive Gear Aliexpress

In Total: 38.94€

All in all: 93.36€


Some Aluminium plates, which I found on the scrapyard

<p>could anyone send me firmware for this for marlin...i tried reptier firmware but it was too old so can not compile with latest marlin..</p>
<p>Friends,</p><p>I tried to Uploud the file Repetier-Firmware.zip (uncompressed) to the Mega Arduino, When compiling the error described below,</p><p>Can anyone help me what's going on?</p><p>Best Regards.</p><p>Arduino: 1.8.1 (Windows 8.1), Board: &quot;Arduino / Genuine Mega or Mega 2560, ATmega2560 (Mega 2560)&quot;</p><p>`StepperWait 'referenced in section` .text' of C: \ Users \ a6 \ AppData \ Local \ Temp \ ccMWn1vD.ltrans8.ltrans.o: defined in discarded section `.text 'of sketch \ HAL.cpp.o (symbol From plugin)</p><p>`StepperWait 'referenced in section` .text' of C: \ Users \ a6 \ AppData \ Local \ Temp \ ccMWn1vD.ltrans8.ltrans.o: defined in discarded section `.text 'of sketch \ HAL.cpp.o (symbol From plugin)</p><p>`StepperWait 'referenced in section` .text' of C: \ Users \ a6 \ AppData \ Local \ Temp \ ccMWn1vD.ltrans8.ltrans.o: defined in discarded section `.text 'of sketch \ HAL.cpp.o (symbol From plugin)</p><p>`StepperWait 'referenced in section` .text' of C: \ Users \ a6 \ AppData \ Local \ Temp \ ccMWn1vD.ltrans8.ltrans.o: defined in discarded section `.text 'of sketch \ HAL.cpp.o (symbol From plugin)</p><p>`StepperWait 'referenced in section` .text' of C: \ Users \ a6 \ AppData \ Local \ Temp \ ccMWn1vD.ltrans8.ltrans.o: defined in discarded section `.text 'of sketch \ HAL.cpp.o (symbol From plugin)</p><p>`StepperWait 'referenced in section` .text' of C: \ Users \ a6 \ AppData \ Local \ Temp \ ccMWn1vD.ltrans8.ltrans.o: defined in discarded section `.text 'of sketch \ HAL.cpp.o (symbol From plugin)</p><p>Collect2.exe: error: ld returned 1 exit status</p><p>Exit status 1</p><p>Compiling error for Arduino board / Genuine Mega or Mega 2560</p><p>This report would have more information</p><p>&quot;Show detailed output during compilation&quot;</p><p>Option can be activated under &quot;File -&gt; Preferences&quot;</p>
<p>Hello all, I am nearly the end of the build. Right now I am having some trouble understanding how the power on (the green wire from the power supply) is spliced on to the ramps board? Matter a fact can someone please post up a picture of how the final wiring should be on the ramps board? I am a highly visual person, sometimes it's very hard for me to understand unless I can see it. I have combed over the instructions but I am still a little confused. Thank you. <br><br>Oh also how/where do the wiring from the fan wire onto the ramp board? Mines are far to short to reach the board. Unless there are extentions that they hook up to.</p>
<p>Edit* Since this isn't a very active thread and I want to finish this up, I just wend ahead and spliced the fan wires. I cut off the connector ends and spliced on longer wire wires then re-spliced the now longer wires onto the connector ends so that they could reach the circuit board. I just want it to look as clean and professional as possible. If anyone else runs into this issue, this is a route you can take.</p>
<p>Edit* to my comment, I did some digging on google and found out that I can either jump my power on wire (green wire) with a ground on the same pin or simply cut it splice it with a ground wire from that same large pin connector. I just needed further clarification. Since the instructions was a little hard for me to follow along.<br><br>I hope this is able to help out anyone else that may be confused as well. I still need some help with my other questions. Unless I am able to figure those out too. </p>
<p>Where is the 3d printer mount for the Z end stop holder? It's in one of the final pictures when the printer is done, but there are no prints or instructions about it? Nothing even on what size bolts it needs. Or even where it plugs into the board? Does anyone have the print for the z end stop holder?</p>
<p>very good design, i am building it, and i am not a expert, learning day by day. but i have geetech board </p><p><a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3D-Printer-Control-Board-GT2560-Support-Dual-Extruder-Power-Than-ATmega2560-Ultimaker-5PCS-A4988-5PCS-Heatsinks/32774010081.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.tHr00b" rel="nofollow">https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3D-Printer-Control...</a></p><p>Can anyone tell me what firmware should i use for this printer...</p><p>Thanks</p>
<p>you can use marlin or repetier, marlin firmware already in thingiverse file. you shuld download pure marlin and you change folder in thingiverse file.</p>
<p>Thanks for reply.</p>
Hi<br>Is there a part to use 8mm lead screw, in z?
<p>Hello, i'm trying to understand why did you choose:</p><p>- 2x A4988 Stepstick (For Z-Axis and Extruder)</p><p>-2x TMC2100 (X &amp; Y Axis)</p><p>Intead of use in all the TMC2100?</p>
<p>A4988's are cheaper, plus the z-axis and extruder aren't used nearly as much as the x and y axis, so there's no need for a quieter stepper driver. If you don't already own a printer, then do not make one from scratch. Getting the 3d printed parts made by someone else on 3dhubs.com or w/e will cost quite a bit. Buy a good printer kit, and thank me later. If you do decide to make this printer for w/e reason, then when you get to the wiring part of the instructions, you're going to want to have the TMC2100 chips in &quot;spreadcycle mode&quot;, not &quot;stealthchop mode&quot; like the author suggests, not many people use stealthchop mode (and for good reason).</p><p>Buy a kit, don't make a printer from scratch as your first printer like I have.</p>
<p>Hello, i'm just starting to the world of 3D printing and i thing that your project is my way to go. Thank you for that.</p><p>I'm just confused about your version of Vulcanus Max V1.1 and the Vulcanus MAX by aldricnegrier. What's the diference?</p>
<p>Hi</p><p>Do you have a mount for a MK8 extruder?</p>
Where can i find the distances the parts need to be mounted on the profiles? Like the z motors and such.<br>Thanks
<p>I don't think it has to be exact, since you have a little wiggle room in terms of the where each stage is placed. I'm putting the bottom of the z motor stage 110mm above the floor (since that's what it looks like in the pictures). You just have to make sure the middle 3 stages connect together, and are all as level as possible. Also if you haven't already gotten to the z-table part yet, the z-table is supposed to be 28cm x 33.5cm when you assemble the related aluminum extrusions (he doesn't mention that anywhere).</p>
Thanks. I made it a little bit different so i could mount the atx psu between the 2 lowest stages. Now i'm trying to figure out where to mount the endstops on the reworked parts. Only obvious holes are on the idler, don't see any holes for X and Z
<p>Try this for the Z-endstop: <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:84211" rel="nofollow">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:84211</a></p><p>Once tightened down onto one of your 8mm z-axis guide rods, it doesn't really move.</p><p>I think you'll need to design a part for holding like a M4x45mm screw &amp; M4 nut on the side of the z-table, with a thumb wheel on the head of the screw for activating the z endstop and for fine adjustments. I'd have already done this, but work and school have gotten in the way :/</p><p>Someone linked a z-endstop below that would work pretty well, but if you've already assembled everything, you'll have to replace one of the z-axis LM8UU holder things and one of the z-axis rod holders in order to use it, which I'm certainly not going to bother with.</p><p>Pretty much every z endstop on thingiverse is designed for a i3 or something similar :/</p>
<p>Hi</p><p>Which is the correct length of th eX and Y smooth rods? In the descriotion here and in the Fusion file diffrent lengths are mentioned!</p>
The 8x350 and 8x365 are meant for the 2016 rework version. Just mounted them. Good luck
<p>You forgot to list all the M3 screws and nuts in step #1, you also forgot to list the extruder parts in step #3. Some of these steps also seem a little vague.</p>
It's not listed anywhere on here, but you need a few M3x25mm screws for screwing the hotend clamp on, and also for screwing on the hotend fan part. I'd say get at least 8 of them, it looks like I might need another four for the heatbed.
Nvm, it looks like you need M3x20 screws for attaching the hotend fan part to the carriage. One of the screw holes just isn't cooperating w/ me.
<p>Can you also use those bronze bushings instead of LM8UU's?</p>
<p>And for the reworked design, do you need both 624zz and f624zz bearings?</p>
<p>For anyone wondering, that's most likely 'radiant barrier' in between the Z-table and the bottom of the heat bed. Radiant barrier is a type of insulation that is usually used in attics for reflecting heat away. You're going to want to have the foil-covered side facing up towards the heat bed. Also the wiring on the heat bed should be facing down with the exposed wire and terminals covered in kapton tape, and the thermistor should also be on the side facing down. The large hole he drilled in his Z-table is for feeding the wiring for the thermistor and heat bed through (so make it 0.25in or something).</p>
<p>Somebody please upload some detailed pictures about the reworked hotend!</p><p>I can't imagine where can I put the two ventilators.</p>
<p>I am having one hell of a time configuring the z endstop. I put it at the top as per what you said. However what happens is once it gets to the top i can no longer go down once the endstop is hit.</p>
<p>I'm upgrading to the new re-worked parts. which endstops do the new parts accomodate?</p>
Hi !<br><br>what you mean under &quot;trys to print much bigger/longer parts, then expected...&quot;?<br>for Z endstops I printed modified holder - you can find it in thingiverse<br><br>Could you please describe what is your exact problem?configuration of Marlin? <br>I can share my configured Marlin files and I kept the log of changed<br>BUT! configuration is very depend to YOUR printer - so if you changed something in original printer you have to tune you marlin<br>For example if you using trapezoids with different step - it should be configured<br><br>
<p>V1 not finished yet, but printing very well (PLA right now). Working on improving some parts - especially Z and cooling.</p>
<p>Hallo,<br>I'm working on the V1 but really don't know what my Problem is. It looks like he trys to print much bigger/longer parts, then expected...<br><br>Please, would you upload the software you use?!?? or send me via e-mail<br>- mariln (if anything changed)<br>- slicer-profile<br>- maybe &quot;Printer&quot;-Configuration (the one in octoprint)<br>- anything else I've forgotten<br><br>quite desperate with this whole thing :(</p>
<p>It sounds like that you need to adjust your steps per mm. You can adjust them in your Eeprom-File. If you don't use an Eeprom, use the Marlin/Repetier Firmware.</p>
<p>thanks for your reply<br><br>I do use Marlin, which I've downloaded from here. Thought it would fit to the printer - but it doesn't.<br><br>Will try to adjust this evening</p>
<p>Hello,</p><p>i want to build my first 3d printer and this one looks nice.</p><p>I dont have any experience and never had a 3d printer but i read a lot for 2 months now.</p><p>I was thinking going with rumba board because it supports 6 steppers,is that ok?</p><p>And also please tell me where could i find all the printed parts needed for this printer as i dont have printer to make them myself and dont know anyone who has one.</p><p>I never saw anyone who makes and sells them.</p>
<p>you can try to find the 3d printing service in your location or try 3dhubs.com - just send the list of STL files you want to print and receive quotation from registered &quot;3d makers&quot; near you</p><p>I suppose rumba board is suitable, but you have to be sure that marlin firmware could be used with it. You dont need 6 steppers to build this printer. At least at the beginning. Ramps also support 6 steppers. you will need sixth stepper for second extruder only </p>
<p>I have the heaters heating up as required and able to hold at temp. the problem i have now is the extruder which i wired according to the picture is reversed. When i do manual toggles. I set the hothead to 210c and hit extrude. after hitting extrude it removes the filament.</p>
<p>did you try to reverse connector? just turn it 180 degree and try</p>
<p>I have no idea where to put the z endstop</p><p>Can anyone shed some light</p>
You have to put the endstop at the top of one z-axis smooth rod
<p>theres no place to put it. where would be a place to mount it?</p>
<p>you can use buckle to place endstop to Z smooth rod </p><p>or use mount from prusa printer </p><p>or the best way imho - print and use this </p><p><a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:916817" rel="nofollow">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:916817</a></p>
<p>Guys I have a 4x A4988 Stepstick can I use then instead of 2x TMC2100 and 2x A4988? Is that possible? </p>
<p>of course, use TMC2100 for X and Y only</p>
<p>I purchased the drv8825 motor drivers. How would I configure it to be compatible?</p>
<p>just change steps/mm in marlin</p><p>#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {<strong>160</strong>,<strong>160</strong>,2560.00,104} </p><p>80 for A4988</p><p>160 for 8825</p><p>I use 8825 for X and Y - its much better than A4988</p><p>No need for Z and Extruder - A4988 is enough</p>
<p>Hi, I am running Repetier host as well. Been having extrusion issues. What has been your experience printing with that firmware/Host? Great design by the way! Thank you. </p>
<p>what kind of issues are you having, I know i am having that once the hotend it heated up my extruder motor quickly initializes then shuts off.</p>
<p>Thanks. Is there a picture of the reworked 2016 edition? I would like to see new belt setup if possible.</p>
<p>Hi, i'm currently building the vulcanus rework but i'm stuck in the kinematics set up. could someone save me explaining how to attach the bearings? do i have to put them in different heights? a pic will be absolutely appreciated.</p>

About This Instructable




Bio: I am an 18 years old guy from Germany who love to make things. Later I want to become an Electrical Engineer :-)
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