Introduction: Vulcanus V1 Reprap 3D-Printer 300€

Picture of Vulcanus V1 Reprap 3D-Printer 300€

Hello,

In this instruction I will show you, how to make a very professionel 3D printer with a low Bugdet of less than 300€.

I'm 16 Years old and I made everything by myself. The "Vulcanus V1"-3D-Printer is based on CoreXY. Which stands for high precisious movement.

Specs:

- Dimensions: 44cm x 44cm x 60cm

- Build Volume: 20cm x 20cm X 26cm

-Travel Speed: 300mm/s tested but you can also try higher values

- Resolution: up to 0.05mm

- Electronic: Ramps 1.4 with TMC2100 1/256 microstep Motordriver


########################################################################

Update: for those who want to build the Vulacnus Max. I published reworked parts for a better and professionel look/fit.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1130016

Vulcanus Max

########################################################################

Update: I published reworked parts for the Vulcanus V1. Please have a look at step 16:

Vulcanus Rework 2016

Step 1: Parts: Mechanics

Picture of Parts: Mechanics

AluminiumExtrusions:

-16x 40cm Aluminium Extrusions 20x20mm smt-montagetechnik

-4x 60cm Aluminium Extrusions 20x20mm

-2x 29,5cm Aluminium Extrusions 20x20mm

-2x 28cm Aluminium Extrusions 20x20mm

In Total: 31.64€

Nuts and Bolts:

-160x M5 Extrusions Nuts which you can made out of a normal Hex-Nut( see pictures) kleinteileversand

-120x M5x10mm Bolts kleinteileversand

-30x M5x12mm Bolts kleinteileversand

-8x M5x25mm Bolts kleinteileversand

-2x M8x 31,5cm threaded rod kleinteileversand

- some M4 Hex Nuts from your local hardware store

-100pcs M4 square Nuts from your local hardware store

-100pcs M4x 6mm Bolts from your local hardware store

In Total: 14.78€ the things from the internet + 8€ from your local hardware store

22.78€

Linear Motions:

2x 33cm 8mm smooth rods kleinteileversand

2x 34,7cm 8mm smooth rods

4x 36cm 8mm smooth rods

16x LM8UU Bearings Ebay

17x 624 Bearings Aliexpress

2x GT2 Pulley + 2m GT2 Belt Aliexpress

2x Axis coupler 5mm to 8mm Aliexpress

Mk7 Drive Gear Aliexpress

In Total: 38.94€

All in all: 93.36€

Optional:

Some Aluminium plates, which I found on the scrapyard

Step 2: Parts: Electronic

Picture of Parts: Electronic

- 5x Nema 17 Steppermotor Ebay

- 1x Arduino Mega 2560

-1x Ramps 1.4 Ebay

-1x Mk2b Heatbed Ebay

-1x E3D V6 Hotend 1.75mm Aliexpress

-2x A4988 Motordriver Ebay

-2x TMC2100 MotorDriver watterott

-1x Thermistor 100k Ebay

-1x 2004 LCD Ebay

-1x Rotary Encoder Aliexpress

-3x 40mm Fans Aliexpress

-2x 80mm Fan Aliexpress

-3x Endstops Ebay

- ATX- PSU- with 16A or more

-Wires + Resistors

In Total: 152.24€

Optional:

Led Strips

Raspberry Pi for Octoprint

Step 3: Parts: Printed Parts

Picture of Parts: Printed Parts

You can download the 3D printed parts from Thingiverse

1x "belt tensioner"

44x "Corner Bracket 2020"

1x "Direct Drive hotend Clamp"

1x "Direct Drive"

1x "Hotend Fan"

1x "Idler with Endstop"

1x "Idler" (mirrored)

2x"Motor" (1x normal, 1x mirrored)

1x "X-Carriage"

2x "X-end Bolt"

2x"X-end Nut"

4x "Z-Axis LM8UU Bolt"

4x " Z-Axis LM8UU Nut"

2x "Z Axis M8 Nut"

2x " Z Motor"

8x "Z-Rodclamp"

8x "Z-Rodholder"

Step 4: Assemble the First Stage : Basis for the Other Stages

Picture of Assemble the First Stage : Basis for the Other Stages

What you need:

-4x 40cm Aluminium Extrusions

-12x Printed Part "Corner bracket 2020"

-24x M5x10 Srews

-24x M5- T-Slot-Nut

What you make:

You put everthing together to a square and tighten everything down.

You need to repeat this steps four times, because this printer has four "Stages"

Step 5: Assemble the Second Stage Stage: Z-Motor

Picture of Assemble the Second Stage Stage: Z-Motor

What you need:

-The Basis Stage from Step 4

+

-10x M5x10mm Srews

-8x M5x12mm Srews

-16x M5 T-Slot Nut

-8x M4x20mm Srews

-8x M4 Hex Nuts

-8x M3x 10mm Screws

-4x Printed Part "Z-Rodholder"

-4x Printed Part "Z-Rodclamp"

-2x Printed Part "Z Motor"

- 2x Nema 17 Steppermotor

If you have some Aluminium plates you also need:

-20x M4x6mm Srews

-20x M4 Square Nuts

What you make:

-You screw the "Z-Rodholder" and the "Z-Rodclamp" together. Then you mount them on the Stage

with some M5x12mm screws and tighten everything down.

- You screw the Nema 17 Steppermotor with some M3x10mm screws in the "Z-Motor". After that you mount them on the Stage with some M5x10mm screws and thigten everthing down.

Step 6: Assemble the Extruder

Picture of Assemble the Extruder

What you need:

Printed Parts:

- 1x The Spring Block from Thingiverse Thingiverse

- 1x Printed part "Direct Drive"

- 1x Printed part "Direct Drive Hotend Clamp"

- 1x Printed part "Hotend Fan"

- 1x Printed part "X-Carriage"

Mechanics:

-1x E3d V6 Hotend

-1x Micro switch

-3x 40mm Fan

-4x LM8UU

-Some M4 and M3 Srews+Nuts

-3x 40mm Fan

What you make:

1. You put the LM8UU into the "X-Carriage"

2. Then you insert two M4 Hex-Nuts in the "X-Carriage"

3. After that you screw the micro Switch on the "X-Carriage"

4. You srew the Motor on the "Direct Drive" printed Part (2x M3x10 screws)

5. You also need to fix the Spring Block from Thingiverse with two M3 srews (M3x16mm)

6. After that you connect the Hotend with the "Direct Drive Hotend Clamp" Printed part to the "Direct Drive "

7. At last you screw the 3 fans on the "Hotend Fan2 Printed Part (12x M3x10mm screws)

Step 7: Assemble the Third Stage: CoreXY-Movement

Picture of Assemble the Third Stage: CoreXY-Movement

What you need:

Printed Parts:

- 1x "Belt tensioner"

- 1x "Idler"

-1x "Idler with endstop"

-2x "Motor"

-2x "X-End Bolt"

-2x "X-End Nut"

-4x "Z-Rodclamp"

-4x "Z-Rodholder"

Mechanics;

-2x Nema 17 Motors

-2x GT2 pulley

-1x GT2 belt

-4x LM8UU

- 2x 33cm (mm smoothrods (X-Axis)

-2x 34,7cm 8mm smoothrods (Y-Axis)

-16x 624zz Bearings

-20x M3x 20 Srews

-20x M3 Hex-Nuts

-16x M5x12mm Screws

-6x M5x10mm Screws

-some M4 Srews (the lenght for the Screws i cut individual from 45mm M4 Screws)

-some M4 Nuts

Electronic:

1x Microswitch

What you make:

1.You Screw the "X-End Bolt" + "X-End Nut" with some M3x20mm Screws and M3 nuts together. After that take the smooth rods in it. Then you connect the Extruder to the X-axis.

2.Now you put the Y-Axis smooth rods in the X-Ends and connect them with the printed parts "Motor" and "Idler".

3.Tighten the "Motor" with some M5x 12mm screws down, the "Idler" with some M5x10mm screws

4.Then you make the Idlers (see pictures) and tighten them down

5.Put the Nema 17 Motors in the "Motor" and tighten them with some M3x 10mm screws down.

6. Connect the belt (Help: CoreXY)

Step 8: Assemble the Last Stage: LED-Light

Picture of Assemble the Last Stage: LED-Light

You just take the step from step-4 and insert the LED-strips in the extrusions.

Step 9: Build the Z-Table

Picture of Build the Z-Table

What you need:

2x Aluminium Extrusions

2x Aluminium Extrusions

2x "Corner Bracked" Printed Part

1x PCB Heatbed MK2b or MK2a

1x 100k Thermistor

1x Aluminium Plate

What you make:

You connet the extrusions with the "Corner Brackets" with some M5x10mm screws and T-slot nuts.

Then you put the Aluminium plate on it and tighten it with some M4x6mm screws down. After that you cut a M3

thread in the plate for the heatbed.

For the Heatbed: You stick the termistor with some Kapton Tape on the Heatbed

Step 10: Put the Stages Together

Picture of Put the Stages Together

What you need:

-4x 60cm Aluminium Extrusions 2020

- Printed Part " Z-Axis LM8UU Bolt"

-Printed Part "Z-Axis LM8UU NUT"

-Printed Part "Z Axis M8 Nut"

-8x LM8UU

-16x M3x20mm Screw + Nuts

-4x 36cm smooth rods

-32x M5x10mm

-32x M5 T-slot Nut

-2x Axis-Coupler 5mm to 8mm

-M8 Threated Rod

What you make:

1. You screw the first Stage with 8 M5x10mm Screws to the 60cm extrusions together.

2. Then the Z-Axis Stage

3. After that you put two LM8UU Bearings in the "Z-Axis LM8UU Bolt + Nut" and screw them with 4 M3x20mm srews down. Repeat this Step four times

4. Then you connect "Z-Axis LM8UU Bolt+Nut" to the Z- Table

5. Now you screw the CoreXY Mechanics to the Frame and insert the 8mm 36cm smooth rods

6. Now you put the Z-table on the Z-smooth rods

Step 11: Electronic: Wiring

Picture of Electronic: Wiring

What you need:

-1x Ramps 1.4

-1x Arduino mega 2560

- 2x A4988 Stepstick (For Z-Axis and Extruder)

-2x TMC2100 (X & Y Axis)

What you make:

You connect the electronic like in the schematic picture

Then you solder the TMC2100. To take them into stealthChop Mode 1/16 Microstepping with Interpolation to 1/256 you need to solder them like on the pictures.



Step 12: Modify a ATX-PSU

Picture of Modify a ATX-PSU

To use a normal ATX-PSU you just need to connect the green with a black wire.

Then you take two black and two yellow wires out. Connect them to your Ramps.

Yellow = +

Black = Ground

Step 13: Firmware

Picture of Firmware

Update 28.02.2016:

Here is the latest Firmware for the Vulcanus V1.

This time I'am using Repetier Firmware.

I enabled Eeprom and Firmware Retraction.

Also I modifed it that my custom Display work

What you need to do:

  1. Upload the pre-configurated firmware to your arduino mega 2560
  2. Enable Firmware Retraction in Slic3r. (see screenshot)

Where can I adjust the parameters?

  • If you have some basic parameters to change (steps per mm, retract, feedrate, acceleration...), open your Repetierhost, and go to Configuration --> Eeprom
  • For other more advanced settings, please visit the Online Config Tool from Repetier

Step 14: Hook Up the LCD

Picture of Hook Up the LCD

What you need:

-1x 2004 LCD

-1x Rotary Encoder

-some Wires

What you make:

You connect the lcd like on the schematic. Then you connect the pins from the Display/Encoder to the Ramps.

LCD-Pins-----Ramps 1.4

RS --> 16

E --> 17

D4 --> 23

D5 --> 25

D6 --> 27

D7 --> 29

Encoder Pins:

Direction Pins --> 31 & 33

Button Pin --> 35

After you connect the Display to Ramps you go into the Marlin configuration File and comment out under lcd:

//#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER

to

#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER

Than everything should work


Step 15: Pictures From Print

Picture of Pictures From Print

1. 3D-Benchy from Thingiverse in a resolution of 0.1mm and a print-speed of 90mm/s - sliced in Cura

2. Gear Bearing from Thingiverse in a resolution of 0.2mm and a print-speed of 180mm/s - sliced in Cura

3. Bayonet from Thingverse in a resolution of 0.1mm and a print-speed of 70mm/s - sliced in Slic3r

Step 16: Vulcanus V1 Rework 2016

Picture of Vulcanus V1 Rework 2016

(If you can't see the interactive 3D model above, its probably because you're not using a WebGL-enabled browser, or you're using the Instructables Mobile app)

Here is the new Vulcanus V1 Rework 2016 edition. I improved allmost every single part of this printer for a more profesionell look. Also the belts are not rub to eachother. You can tension every belt individually.


Features

  • the belts don't rub to eachother
  • you can tension the belts individually
  • the maximal print size in X&Y is now 25x25cm ! by a footprint of 44x44cm
  • the extrusion sizes are the same as in the Vulcanus V1, so you can easily change to the new files

Additionell parts for the conversion:

  • longer smooth rods in X/Y: 2x [8x350mm] & 2x [8x365mm]
  • 16x F624zz Bearings Aliexpress
  • Longer GT2 Belt as in the Vulcanus V1 2x [2m GT2 Belt] Aliexpress
  • Some screws M3 ; M4


Here you can download all required files for the Vulcanus V1 Rework 2016:

.f3d is for Fusion360

.step is for other CAD programms

Comments

vettetek made it! (author)2017-11-14

Made a "MAX" version!

Swansong (author)2017-10-13

That makes some really good quality prints! Great instructable :)

FnnyR (author)2017-10-07

Hi, and thank you so much for this tutorial,

This is my first 3D printer and I am a bit lot about the belt fixation (Vulcanus V1) on both sides of the extruder. Would it be possible to get pictures of these parts ? Thanks a lot !

Vulcaman (author)FnnyR2017-10-08

Hi,

please take a look at my DIY-SLS-3D-Printer. The X-Y Garenty is nearly the same as on the Vulcanus V1.

FnnyR (author)2017-10-07

Hi Vulcanus,

Your printer is great and I am trying to build it as my first printer. So far, everything is alrignt, but I have no idea of how you fix the belt on the two sides of the extruder. Would it be possible to get a picture of the two sides please (from anyone :) ) It would help me a lot.

Thank you !

hayttle (author)2017-09-04

Linear Motions for rework 2016 version:

X/Y [ 2x 35cm, 2x 36,5cm] 8mm smooth rods

What about Z axis? 4x 36cm or 4x 40cm 8mm smooth rods?

Tks

hayttle (author)2017-09-04

Hi guys, I'm planning to build Vulcanus v1 Rework 2016 and I'd like to know:

Are Aluminium Extrusions the same of v1?

Besides prints parts, the only conversion is:
longer smooth rods in X/Y: 2x [8x350mm] & 2x [8x365mm], z the same and
16x F624zz Bearings

Tks,

JoaquinPicci (author)2017-07-28

i have a vulcanus v1 working and now im making the reworked version. I cant just figure out how to assemble the pulley - belt system of X and Y axis. I cant find photos on internet

ImranS60 (author)2017-03-06

very good design, i am building it, and i am not a expert, learning day by day. but i have geetech board

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3D-Printer-Control...

Can anyone tell me what firmware should i use for this printer...

Thanks

citkit (author)ImranS602017-03-11

you can use marlin or repetier, marlin firmware already in thingiverse file. you shuld download pure marlin and you change folder in thingiverse file.

djnos1978 (author)citkit2017-06-25

I didn't see the marlin firmware. I did see a config h file on thingivere but isn't that just part of the firmware? Wouldn't I need the entire code?

ImranS60 (author)citkit2017-03-13

Thanks for reply.

ohfudge (author)2017-04-04

For anyone who is having extrusion issues:
You can remedy that by ziptie-ing something stiff that is ~8cm long to where the bowden tube meets the direct-drive extruder. You want to have the stiff object and the bowden tube ziptied to the bundle of wires coming out of the cooling fans, hotend, etc. What this does is it makes the last ~8cm of filament not move too much when the carriage is moving, so the filament is always entering the extruder as close to vertical as possible.

ohfudge (author)ohfudge2017-04-04

You should also try to have the bowden tube approach the extruder as vertically as possible, you don't want the filament to approach the extruder horizontally, then make a 90 degree turn once it reaches the extruder, that leads to extrusion issues.

matrixmechanics (author)ohfudge2017-04-07

Do you have a picture of this? It would help me out a lot. Thank you.

matrixmechanics (author)2017-03-14

Where is the 3d printer mount for the Z end stop holder? It's in one of the final pictures when the printer is done, but there are no prints or instructions about it? Nothing even on what size bolts it needs. Or even where it plugs into the board? Does anyone have the print for the z end stop holder?

ohfudge (author)matrixmechanics2017-04-04

This is what I use:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:84211

I just use the build platform to trigger the endstop, but I recommend one of the ones that uses a screw and nut to let you adjust the endstop more easily and accurately.

You'll have to design that yourself though, I've tried finding something that will work with 2020 extrusions, and came up empty handed. It should be pretty easy to design something in 123D or Tinkercad

matrixmechanics (author)ohfudge2017-04-07

Thank you so much.

jrfabri (author)2017-03-16

Friends,

I tried to Uploud the file Repetier-Firmware.zip (uncompressed) to the Mega Arduino, When compiling the error described below,

Can anyone help me what's going on?

Best Regards.

Arduino: 1.8.1 (Windows 8.1), Board: "Arduino / Genuine Mega or Mega 2560, ATmega2560 (Mega 2560)"

`StepperWait 'referenced in section` .text' of C: \ Users \ a6 \ AppData \ Local \ Temp \ ccMWn1vD.ltrans8.ltrans.o: defined in discarded section `.text 'of sketch \ HAL.cpp.o (symbol From plugin)

`StepperWait 'referenced in section` .text' of C: \ Users \ a6 \ AppData \ Local \ Temp \ ccMWn1vD.ltrans8.ltrans.o: defined in discarded section `.text 'of sketch \ HAL.cpp.o (symbol From plugin)

`StepperWait 'referenced in section` .text' of C: \ Users \ a6 \ AppData \ Local \ Temp \ ccMWn1vD.ltrans8.ltrans.o: defined in discarded section `.text 'of sketch \ HAL.cpp.o (symbol From plugin)

`StepperWait 'referenced in section` .text' of C: \ Users \ a6 \ AppData \ Local \ Temp \ ccMWn1vD.ltrans8.ltrans.o: defined in discarded section `.text 'of sketch \ HAL.cpp.o (symbol From plugin)

`StepperWait 'referenced in section` .text' of C: \ Users \ a6 \ AppData \ Local \ Temp \ ccMWn1vD.ltrans8.ltrans.o: defined in discarded section `.text 'of sketch \ HAL.cpp.o (symbol From plugin)

`StepperWait 'referenced in section` .text' of C: \ Users \ a6 \ AppData \ Local \ Temp \ ccMWn1vD.ltrans8.ltrans.o: defined in discarded section `.text 'of sketch \ HAL.cpp.o (symbol From plugin)

Collect2.exe: error: ld returned 1 exit status

Exit status 1

Compiling error for Arduino board / Genuine Mega or Mega 2560

This report would have more information

"Show detailed output during compilation"

Option can be activated under "File -> Preferences"

ohfudge (author)jrfabri2017-04-04

I had the same problem. I believe this is how I fixed it, iirc:
* Click the HAL.cpp tab in the Arduino IDE
* Go to line 666 (coincidence? I think not lol)
* Change line 666 to this, w/o quotations: "long __attribute__((used)) stepperWait = 0;"
* Upload code to mega, you should at least not get this error message again.

It's possible I'm mis-remembering what I did. If you google "StepperWait", you'll find a couple fixes.

Pixel3DesignHUB (author)2017-03-28

I've got the Smoothieware config for it. Arduino is way too slow to run a CoreXY smoothly enough.

I'm going to upgrade the old version with the new one and I've already modified the extruder to use a normal M4 bolt to fix the ball bearing.

It'll be good if the designer will make a new BOM and at least some photos of the mechanics build to almost see what is the idea about the BB idlers.

Is indeed a really good machine.

ImranS60 (author)2017-03-17

could anyone send me firmware for this for marlin...i tried reptier firmware but it was too old so can not compile with latest marlin..

matrixmechanics made it! (author)2017-03-14

Hello all, I am nearly the end of the build. Right now I am having some trouble understanding how the power on (the green wire from the power supply) is spliced on to the ramps board? Matter a fact can someone please post up a picture of how the final wiring should be on the ramps board? I am a highly visual person, sometimes it's very hard for me to understand unless I can see it. I have combed over the instructions but I am still a little confused. Thank you.

Oh also how/where do the wiring from the fan wire onto the ramp board? Mines are far to short to reach the board. Unless there are extentions that they hook up to.

Edit* Since this isn't a very active thread and I want to finish this up, I just wend ahead and spliced the fan wires. I cut off the connector ends and spliced on longer wire wires then re-spliced the now longer wires onto the connector ends so that they could reach the circuit board. I just want it to look as clean and professional as possible. If anyone else runs into this issue, this is a route you can take.

Edit* to my comment, I did some digging on google and found out that I can either jump my power on wire (green wire) with a ground on the same pin or simply cut it splice it with a ground wire from that same large pin connector. I just needed further clarification. Since the instructions was a little hard for me to follow along.

I hope this is able to help out anyone else that may be confused as well. I still need some help with my other questions. Unless I am able to figure those out too.

citkit (author)2017-03-09

Hi
Is there a part to use 8mm lead screw, in z?

renatortb (author)2017-02-20

Hello, i'm trying to understand why did you choose:

- 2x A4988 Stepstick (For Z-Axis and Extruder)

-2x TMC2100 (X & Y Axis)

Intead of use in all the TMC2100?

ohfudge (author)renatortb2017-03-03

A4988's are cheaper, plus the z-axis and extruder aren't used nearly as much as the x and y axis, so there's no need for a quieter stepper driver. If you don't already own a printer, then do not make one from scratch. Getting the 3d printed parts made by someone else on 3dhubs.com or w/e will cost quite a bit. Buy a good printer kit, and thank me later. If you do decide to make this printer for w/e reason, then when you get to the wiring part of the instructions, you're going to want to have the TMC2100 chips in "spreadcycle mode", not "stealthchop mode" like the author suggests, not many people use stealthchop mode (and for good reason).

Buy a kit, don't make a printer from scratch as your first printer like I have.

renatortb (author)2017-02-18

Hello, i'm just starting to the world of 3D printing and i thing that your project is my way to go. Thank you for that.

I'm just confused about your version of Vulcanus Max V1.1 and the Vulcanus MAX by aldricnegrier. What's the diference?

BernhardS11 (author)2017-02-13

Hi

Do you have a mount for a MK8 extruder?

ipster (author)2017-01-21

Where can i find the distances the parts need to be mounted on the profiles? Like the z motors and such.
Thanks

ohfudge (author)ipster2017-01-26

I don't think it has to be exact, since you have a little wiggle room in terms of the where each stage is placed. I'm putting the bottom of the z motor stage 110mm above the floor (since that's what it looks like in the pictures). You just have to make sure the middle 3 stages connect together, and are all as level as possible. Also if you haven't already gotten to the z-table part yet, the z-table is supposed to be 28cm x 33.5cm when you assemble the related aluminum extrusions (he doesn't mention that anywhere).

ipster (author)ohfudge2017-02-09

Thanks. I made it a little bit different so i could mount the atx psu between the 2 lowest stages. Now i'm trying to figure out where to mount the endstops on the reworked parts. Only obvious holes are on the idler, don't see any holes for X and Z

ohfudge (author)ipster2017-02-10

Try this for the Z-endstop: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:84211

Once tightened down onto one of your 8mm z-axis guide rods, it doesn't really move.

I think you'll need to design a part for holding like a M4x45mm screw & M4 nut on the side of the z-table, with a thumb wheel on the head of the screw for activating the z endstop and for fine adjustments. I'd have already done this, but work and school have gotten in the way :/

Someone linked a z-endstop below that would work pretty well, but if you've already assembled everything, you'll have to replace one of the z-axis LM8UU holder things and one of the z-axis rod holders in order to use it, which I'm certainly not going to bother with.

Pretty much every z endstop on thingiverse is designed for a i3 or something similar :/

BernhardS11 (author)2017-02-09

Hi

Which is the correct length of th eX and Y smooth rods? In the descriotion here and in the Fusion file diffrent lengths are mentioned!

ipster (author)BernhardS112017-02-09

The 8x350 and 8x365 are meant for the 2016 rework version. Just mounted them. Good luck

ohfudge (author)2017-01-01

You forgot to list all the M3 screws and nuts in step #1, you also forgot to list the extruder parts in step #3. Some of these steps also seem a little vague.

ohfudge (author)ohfudge2017-01-12

It's not listed anywhere on here, but you need a few M3x25mm screws for screwing the hotend clamp on, and also for screwing on the hotend fan part. I'd say get at least 8 of them, it looks like I might need another four for the heatbed.

ohfudge (author)ohfudge2017-01-12

Nvm, it looks like you need M3x20 screws for attaching the hotend fan part to the carriage. One of the screw holes just isn't cooperating w/ me.

Debrugger. (author)2017-01-07

Can you also use those bronze bushings instead of LM8UU's?

Debrugger. (author)Debrugger.2017-01-08

And for the reworked design, do you need both 624zz and f624zz bearings?

ohfudge (author)2017-01-06

For anyone wondering, that's most likely 'radiant barrier' in between the Z-table and the bottom of the heat bed. Radiant barrier is a type of insulation that is usually used in attics for reflecting heat away. You're going to want to have the foil-covered side facing up towards the heat bed. Also the wiring on the heat bed should be facing down with the exposed wire and terminals covered in kapton tape, and the thermistor should also be on the side facing down. The large hole he drilled in his Z-table is for feeding the wiring for the thermistor and heat bed through (so make it 0.25in or something).

HornyákS (author)2016-12-08

Somebody please upload some detailed pictures about the reworked hotend!

I can't imagine where can I put the two ventilators.

gnewton (author)2016-10-10

I am having one hell of a time configuring the z endstop. I put it at the top as per what you said. However what happens is once it gets to the top i can no longer go down once the endstop is hit.

gnewton (author)2016-09-13

I'm upgrading to the new re-worked parts. which endstops do the new parts accomodate?

Rus5 (author)2016-09-12

Hi !

what you mean under "trys to print much bigger/longer parts, then expected..."?
for Z endstops I printed modified holder - you can find it in thingiverse

Could you please describe what is your exact problem?configuration of Marlin?
I can share my configured Marlin files and I kept the log of changed
BUT! configuration is very depend to YOUR printer - so if you changed something in original printer you have to tune you marlin
For example if you using trapezoids with different step - it should be configured

Rus5 made it! (author)2016-08-29

V1 not finished yet, but printing very well (PLA right now). Working on improving some parts - especially Z and cooling.

7130.eugen.fix (author)Rus52016-09-10

Hallo,
I'm working on the V1 but really don't know what my Problem is. It looks like he trys to print much bigger/longer parts, then expected...

Please, would you upload the software you use?!?? or send me via e-mail
- mariln (if anything changed)
- slicer-profile
- maybe "Printer"-Configuration (the one in octoprint)
- anything else I've forgotten

quite desperate with this whole thing :(

Vulcaman (author)7130.eugen.fix2016-09-11

It sounds like that you need to adjust your steps per mm. You can adjust them in your Eeprom-File. If you don't use an Eeprom, use the Marlin/Repetier Firmware.

7130.eugen.fix (author)Vulcaman2016-09-12

thanks for your reply

I do use Marlin, which I've downloaded from here. Thought it would fit to the printer - but it doesn't.

Will try to adjust this evening

About This Instructable

228,319views

1,147favorites

License:

Bio: I am an 19 years old guy from Germany who love to make things. Later I want to become an Electrical Engineer :-)
More by Vulcaman:10€ BICYCLE USB CHARGERJRLS 1000 DIY SLS-3D-PRINTERDIY-SLS-3D-Printer
Add instructable to: