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this stealthy camera that almost fits in my pocket has several lenses that capture images at different points during the photographing process.
one when the shutter fires ,another does a slit scan when winding on, and a pinhole for when its not being used. its also got a infra red 'fogger'  for when the cameras left for longer periods of time. its based on a russian fed5 and contains parts from a old sony video camera, a webcam, a can of red bull, a zenit camera, some plumbing supplies , maybe some lego, an kodak advantex camera. it weighs 580g when loaded with film and batterys. it automatically advances to the next frame. focus shutter speed and apertures are fixed .


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DF4n9LUCne4

Step 1:

i removed the shutter housing and mounted the lenses inside. the webcam one at its original sensor distance. the advantex electric shutter and the lens from a viewfinder i had kicking about in my spares box for ages. the redbull can served as a pinhole and slit material. and a surface for the filler, i rougthly stuck it around the lenses with superglue,it did not have to be tidy because it would all be buried in bodyfiller. i made a hole to get to the shutter solenoid incase it jammed it would give me something to jab at,this hole is also the ir fogger i hope to get a shadow of the spring on the film. for the pinhole i consulted this handy online calculator.http://www.mrpinhole.com/calcpinh.php then i took a guess at it.

Step 2:

i liked the knobbley bits round the big lens so i used a it of plastic as a mask when putting the filler in.

Step 3:

the camera was missing its take up spoole so i got a zenit one from the spares box and after some fileing and cutting to make it align with the sprocket i attached it with a poorly fitting screw and slip spring.

Step 4:

lots of lumps and bumps needed removing from inside the body an angle grinder sped it up a bit without too much damage.

Step 5:

first plan was to use a belt drive on a cog with gaps in the teeth to creat a pause at which a cam could set a microswitch to fire the shutter. the belt prouved to be a bit springy ,i wanted a belt so it would slip when the film reached its end. another problem was the cog had a tendancy to jam every now and then

Step 6:

this rotary switch on a separate motor became the new control system, it looks like its compatible with lego technic. now i can concentrate on getting the advance to turn without problems.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8SqRJElh4E4

Step 7:

after removing the cog with the gap idea,i carried on with the belt drive idea,really wanted to use a tiny motor to keep the overall size down, ran into more torque issues.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JYIw3kOKqVE

Step 8:

so i gave in and got a bigger motor,it had a mounting plate which was easy to bolt onto the body using the holes for the self timer. still tried belt drive but there was still slippage when resistance was felt. plastic cogs replaced the belt

Step 9:

as cogs are being used to drive the thing,i had to reinstate the rewind switch which makes the film sprocket run free from the rest of the mechanism. i found a pokie piece of metal to do this.

Step 10:

trying out the electro control system befor making the wires routed tidily

Step 11:

making a start of shortening and hiding the wires

Step 12:

iv decided to put the top plate of the camera on the wrong way round so the made in cccp is on the front. have hot glued the wires down, and cut any bit of the top plate off that will get in the way of my mechinisms. playing with the idea of a simple prism as a viewfinder. im going to put the shutter button in a recessed position so i do not need to worry about an on off switch

Step 13:

found somewhere nice for the batterys, but the electric control gets in the way of where i would have put the prism, so no tricky viewfinder for this camera..i now glue bits of track board over the inside of areas where i dont want holes, i use thin metal where space is at a premium.

Step 14:

car body filler over the holes and sand flat with wet and dry p80 p1500. may take a couple of passes with filler to get it to good enough. also cut part of the cameras original front trim to make a bit to cover the rotary switch that is higher than the top plate.it also leaves a gap which if light gets in you can see the rotary switch going round,a sort of diagnosis window for when things go wrong

Step 15:

black paint on the top plate , base of the film cover and the hideous blue and green plastic cogs.

Step 16:

solder the shutter button on, the camera in other hand for photo but that soon replaced with soldering iron.

Step 17:

fitting the top ,and wired the battery holder.

Step 18:

put the battery holder almost in place then a generous blob of hot glue and push it home, also put some red paint on the rewind button thing.

Step 20:

dam cog was still slipping on its spindle ,drill through the lot and superglue a screw in the hole.

Step 21:

test images on their way, the film is in the camera 14/1/13
<p>nice instructable.</p>

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Bio: the a b c approach is not for me .all feedback welcome. thanks for looking. if you would like some assistance or are interested in ... More »
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