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This is an indestructable waist high planter box that we hope will bring us to partial "vegetable independence" from the grocery store this season. 

There has been a trend in the neighborhood towards planter boxes. I don't fully understand why vegetables can't just be grown in the ground like they did when we were kids, but I'm not about to buck this trend. Modern vegetables require way more care and attention than the rough and tough vegetables of yesteryear.

The vegibox as built has final outer dimensions of: Length=72",  Width=21 3/4", Height=11 3/4
The frame brings the top of the box to 31" off the ground. After installation on concrete pavers, the top height will be about 32" high which is about normal kitchen counter height. Bringing the planter up to waste height is a definite back saver as you can tend your veggie garden standing upright.

The vegibox consists of a cedar box supported by an indestructable 2x4 pine frame that will most likely be capable of supporting 2 to 3 times the load it will ever see. Definitely overkill on the frame. The box can be separated from the frame. The weight of soil and water will clamp the box to the frame - a gravity clamp. Cedar has good outdoor rot resistance which makes it a good choice for planter boxes. It is also untreated which means that toxins won't leach out of the cedar box into the vegetables. I chose untreated pine for the base because it is strong ( people build houses from 2x4's ) and with a coating of deck stain, will hopefully last a number of years in the outdoors. I prefer to avoid treated lumber even though they stopped using arsenic ( or more accurately chromated copper arsenate) some time back. 

Enough rambling - time to start building. With apologies to John Brown who I'm sure spent the day keeping the TV safe.


Step 1: Stuff you need

All the wood was bought from Lowes. We spent about $160 on wood and screws. The 2x4 lumber is cheap and the entire frame cost $17.40 in 2x4s. The bulk of the budget went on the Cedar boards which is pricey stuff. However, if we have a prolific vegetable season, this should pay for itself in no time at all.

Wood:
  • 2x4x96 Kiln Dried Pine studs  x 6
  • 1x8x12 Cedar Board x 2
  • 1x8x8 Cedar Board x 3
  • 1x4x12 Cedar Board x 1
  • 1x4x10 Cedar Board x 1

Fasteners:
  • 1-1/4" Star Drive All Weather Self Tapping Screws Box of 100
  • 2-1/2" Kreg All Weather Self Tapping Pocket Hole Screws
I guess you could use nails but I prefer the controlled clamping of screws and they tend not to back out over time like nails do.

Tools:
  • Table Saw - for ripping and cutting ends to length. Boards are too wide for my mitre saw
  • Mitre Saw - for cutting the 2x4's to length
  • Power Drill for making pockets holes and screwing in screws
  • Kreg Pocket Hole Jigs and Clamp
  • Wood Glue (I prefer Elmers - sets fast and is crazy strong)
  • Set Square for checking right angles
  • Pencil or pen for marking cut lengths
  • A 4ft clamp and a 6" clamp - not strictly neccessary but it serves as a third hand
  • Measuring device (steel tape at least 10ft long will work the best)
  • 5/8" Forstner Bit for making drain holes. Any other large size drill bit will work. I just happen to like Forstner bits. 
  • Sunscreen and a Springbok Rugby cap to keep the sun out of your face if you are working outside. 
  • Personal protective equipment like safety glasses, dust mask and whatever else you feel you need to keep you safe. Power tools can inflict massive amounts of life threatening injury in an instant, so please make sure you understand safe operation of your tools. If not, get training and always read the safety instructions that accompany your tools.





<p>For someone with minimal building skills, I'm proud to say I made this planter. The directions were clear and the measurements were very helpful. Instead of a vegetable garden, my daughter and I made this into a miniature fairly garden with a water feature. Thank you for such an inspirational Instructable!</p>
<p>That is simply fantastic! Well done!</p>
<p>Hello all, I am wanting my husband to make a few of these for me over the next year and I was wondering if any one else has experience with these beds in the desert, I live in Salt Lake City so we have a dry climate and I am concerned about the soil drying out. </p>
<p>Hello i am looking to do this project for my backyard and wondering how much in total all these materials cost. If you could give me the total it cost for you that would be great.</p>
<p>I spent about $160 at the time. Read the comments below. Others have found ways to build for less. The cedar boards I used were the major cost driver. Cedar decking boards might be cheaper. </p>
<p>Ok thank you very much for this.That is very helpful.</p>
<p>I spent about $160 at the time. Read the comments below. Others have found ways to build for less. The cedar boards I used were the major cost driver. Cedar decking boards might be cheaper. </p>
<p>I spent about $160 at the time. Read the comments below. Others have found ways to build for less. The cedar boards I used were the major cost driver. Cedar decking boards might be cheaper. </p>
<p>Great Instructable. Thank you for documenting your project so well.</p><p>It's been about 3 yrs since you posted this Instructable. My wife just discovered it and wants me to make one. I'm curious what lessons you learned over the past 3 years about your construction, drainage, etc. Would you build one today exactly the same or is there some updated advice for making this project?</p>
<p>I would add a mesh cover to keep insects, birds and squirrels out! There is a good example of a cover made with PVC piping further down (see comment by <a href="http://www.instructables.com/member/Silhouette01" style="">Silhouette01</a>). A squirrel literally went nuts in our box last weekend and destroyed all the seedlings. </p><p>Thanks for your comments and enjoy the build!</p>
Beautiful box!!! Clear instructions! But...isn't there always one?.. For the price of just one of those several power tools you call out, the wood and screws, and wow your time(pocket set screws. really?) you could buy an awful lot of veggies. And even cedar isn't forever. Aesthetic, spastetic, Is this a planter box, or a show piece?
Also, a 6 foot long garden? At best one or two trips to the produce dept.Large plastics totes set in a PVC frame..3 tines as long at 1/3 the cost.
<p>A 6' long garden bed isn't unusual, I currently have a 4'x8' raised greenhouse Guarden bed, and am planning on making a couple of these boxes. For some people, it's not about the end product (vegetables) it's about having a garden, maintaining the garden, and enjoying the fruits of your labor. To simply put a price tag on this isn't the point. Also, any kit you could buy for less would have low quality wood and fall apart within a year. I did a ton of research before we built my potting bench. For about $250 I have a $800 value redwood bench that we can proudly say we built, and will last for years.</p>
<p>Very nice looking bench.</p>
<p>Thanks! It's been working well, still looks great!</p>
Thanks... I think!
Thanks for the comments. The power tools I have had for a long time. They are not the greatest quality but they get the job done. I have been a maker since forever. A large number of the furniture pieces in my home were made by me. Building the box the way it is is an extension of the furniture building techniques I use. Building is therapy for me. I built this for my wife who is thrilled to have it. It wasn't about building the cheapest planter box.
<p>Great box I'm going to make one this weekend. The box is a great balance between functionality and grace. Not only do I want some homegrown herbs but also when I look out the back window I want to see something that fits well with the landscaping. By the way cost -- What is the cost of any hobby and what is the benefit. I think if you lived in an apartment or an RV you may not want to build this project...</p>
<p>Thanks - having an aesthetically pleasing box was important to me. Post pictures when you are done. There are some great examples of in these comments of other people's builds.</p>
<p>Thanks for the great ideas! I made mine with some used wood so I modified the box a bit and also added a sub-irrigation design .</p><p>Thanks again and happy gardening!</p>
Looks great!
<p>I was the guy from San Francisco who had trouble getting Cedar and settled for some rough redwood from Home Depot. Made a mistake and got two inch planks which made for some really thick boards but I think it turned out well. My wife requested a waist high planter and this article was extremely helpful. We decided to go for a wider planter. The dimensions are 36&quot; wide by 72&quot; long and 12&quot; deep. Mostly everything stayed the same. Let me know if you guys got any questions!</p>
<p>That looks great!</p><p>I'm almost done building my plantar. I live in Toronto. April weather here is unpredictable. So a cover for cold nights or days is needed. I've had numerous ideas about how to build a cover. I see you used plastic tubing. That will work really well. A simply but brilliant idea! Thanks for sharing your pictures. I'll post mine when I'm done. BTW I used 5/4&quot; cedar decking boards from Home Depot. </p>
<p>Wow, that turned out very nicely! </p>
<p>You might want to line the inside of the box with plastic (cutting holes lined up with your drainage holes) to protect the wood from moisture, which will eventually warp and rot it. It's optional; but it depends on how long you want it to last. I'd expect a couple years with no plastic, 10-15 years with plastic.</p>
<p>Mine is still in good shape after 3 years. I added fresh soil this weekend getting ready for another season. I wanted to avoid the use of man-made materials as much as possible since they could introduce chemicals we may not want in our vegetables. </p>
<p>I was very excited to find this article. I am having sticker stock though as I can't find any place that sells cedar in or near San Francisco. Lowes and Home Depot doesn't carry it. I asked a local lumber yard and they quote me $8.70 per ft! Holy moly, just lumber alone will be over $600. Anybody got any ideas for me?</p>
<p>Cedar is certainly an expensive choice, but not $8.70 per foot! The lumber yard must be quoting you nicely finished and planed cedar at that price! I spent a total of $160 for all the wood - still pricey but there are no signs of rot yet so maybe a worthy choice. As @silhouette01 mentioned below, rough redwood could be a good option for you if cedar is not available. I wanted to make sure that the wood would survive in it's natural state so as to avoid chemicals leaching into the vegetables - cedar is a suitable choice. If you are using the planter for non-edibles, you have other choices. </p>
Try scaffold boards. With some sanding and a little paint, they'll last just as long, but at a fraction of the price.
<p>Scaffold board will rot in a few years and I rather not paint as it will leech into the veggie we plan on planting. Just came back from Home Depot and went with their 2&quot;x12&quot;x8' Rough Redwood for $29. Got three of those and one 12' at $46. Total came out to exactly $150. We plan on making the planter 6 feet by 3 feet.</p>
Thank you for an excellent and very detailed Instructable.<br><br>I altered the design slightly to add extra depth, and constructed the main body from 38mm scaffold boards (low cost, high strength). I then lined it with 1200gsm damp proof membrane, stapled around the rim, with holes in the bottom for drainage. There's then about a 40mm deep layer of 20mm shingle before the soil, to aid drainage.<br><br>We then primed the wood with a spirit-based primer, followed by two coats of external grade wood paint in satin. I also added a 75mm wide rim to the top, as it hides the edge of the DPC membrane, and frames the foliage nicely.<br><br>It looks the part, and is producing enormous root vegetables. We're considering installing a drip-hose irrigation system just under the lip, to save having to water the trough each evening.
<p>That looks awesome! </p>
made mine a combo wicking bed. the slide and is not in the design... <br>one bit of advice. build it on site unless you have strong backs to help transport.
<p>Look's great!</p>
<p>I have been meaning to build something similar for a while, thanks for the inspiration. Clearly, I have gone a little free style with the timber. I was aiming to keep the cost to a minimum. </p><p>Thanks again for the instructions. (Good luck in the RWC!)</p>
<p>Great job... So I followed your plans to the most part. My wife did not want a 6 foot box, so mine is 4' long x 18&quot; deep by 11&quot; tall and is made primarily of 2x6 rip torn cedar boards that I had laying around and only bought 1x4's for the shelf. I do have one question, how did you cut the PVC cap in half? My first attempt did not go as planned... :)</p>
That looks great! Clamp the PVC cap to work table using vice grips to clamp the wall section of the cap - the one jaw of the vice grips goes into the cap, the other jaw under the table. Hope that makes sense! Then use a hacksaw or jig saw to cut it in half. <br>
LOL,A super great idea to get the hubby build for the wife.As you mentioned about the tools <br>&amp; materials.Well I'm not bragging but I do own all of them &amp; also I can make all my own material,For I'm very lucky to also have my own LM2000 Nowoods bandsaw mill.So now I'll be making these from scratch.A great idea,you got my vote.I'll try different materials.Cause we don't have ceder here in Alberta.I know of wood known by different names called &quot;black popular,or balm.Well I know it resistes rot when wet,So I'll use the for the box &amp; use pine for the supports.And also keep watching for brilliant ideas.
One of the other comments further down suggested using pond liner for the bed. That should help the wood survive a long time but I'm sure research is required to prevent plastics leaching out into your plants if you are doing vegetables.. As with all the other potential makers of the box, post pictures when you are done - I'd like to see them
<p>You can also paint the inside with Henry's Asphalt Emulsion. I grew up in a family business constructing ponds and growing the plants. We always sealed the wood or concrete with asphalt emulsion, since it gets into the cracks, etc. and won't pierce like liner.</p>
I loved the design for this box so much that we had to make two! I'm only 43, but I have pretty bad arthritis and could no longer do the kneeling, bending and squatting needed for gardening...even in low boxes because I'd get stuck down there and couldn't get back up. Yikes! These have given me the ability to have a wonderful garden again. Honestly, I didn't know how to do the pocket holes for screws like you did, so a few do show, but I tried to &quot;toe screw&quot; most of them, so they are hidden. for those that show, I used screws with heads that are sort of nice looking....if that's possible. Haha! I didn't put a solid bottom in for two reasons...one, to save some money in the cost of lumber since I was making two boxes, and two, because I just don't personally have the skills with tools that were needed....I am a girl, after all! I think I did ok, all in all, though. I laid burlap on the wire mesh and put pea gravel over the top of that to hold the soil in. To finish it off, I added a drip irrigation system under mulch. Talk about an almost &quot;hands off&quot; garden! I really, really love it. Thanks so much for sharing this plan!
<p>How did the bottomless box work out for you this season? These are such gorgeous planters!</p>
It worked out really well! I don't think that I've ever gotten so much out of a garden! I couldn't believe it. I'm very, very happy with the boxes. No maintenance, whatsoever, other than turning on the spigot once in a while. :)
<p>Thank you! Now that winter has finally hit, I'm having fun picking out projects for next year -- this will make the list!</p>
Wow, your boxes came out great! That's an excellent Idea for the bottom. Thanks for posting the picture - nice work!<br>
Nice design. I may try an 8' version for this summer.<br> <br> I had the same concern mentioned previously about the pocket holes being a water passage into the wood, I think inverted would be better. I wonder how biscuits and glue would work with cedar - I'll have to look into that.<br> <br> I do have a question about the stand. I see some notches in the cross pieces when I look at one of the last pictures closely (read it first on the phone). Are those for any particular reason? I did not see any reference and figured you pulled something out of my bag of tricks when you made the drainage holes.<br> <br> Thanks for sharing.
<p>Kreg makes plugs for the holes. Just glue them in. Should make everything water tight.</p>
Biscuits will work just fine if u use waterproof glue like Elmer's Max. If u can find wider boards in your area that will be the best. <br><br>The notches are there for the gutters. These were an afterthought to prevent water dripping onto the shelf below. I slit 2&quot; PVC pipe in half for the gutters. I will upload pictures later today.
I was thinking Gorilla Glue. I did some testing with oak a few years back and the joint broke beyond where the glue had seeped into the wood. In other words, the wood failed, not the glue. Quite impressive.<br><br>Looking forward to seeing the gutters.
Uploaded the gutter pics and added some text. Hope it makes sense now

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