Introduction: Waist High Planter Box

This is an indestructable waist high planter box that we hope will bring us to partial "vegetable independence" from the grocery store this season. 

There has been a trend in the neighborhood towards planter boxes. I don't fully understand why vegetables can't just be grown in the ground like they did when we were kids, but I'm not about to buck this trend. Modern vegetables require way more care and attention than the rough and tough vegetables of yesteryear.

The vegibox as built has final outer dimensions of: Length=72",  Width=21 3/4", Height=11 3/4
The frame brings the top of the box to 31" off the ground. After installation on concrete pavers, the top height will be about 32" high which is about normal kitchen counter height. Bringing the planter up to waste height is a definite back saver as you can tend your veggie garden standing upright.

The vegibox consists of a cedar box supported by an indestructable 2x4 pine frame that will most likely be capable of supporting 2 to 3 times the load it will ever see. Definitely overkill on the frame. The box can be separated from the frame. The weight of soil and water will clamp the box to the frame - a gravity clamp. Cedar has good outdoor rot resistance which makes it a good choice for planter boxes. It is also untreated which means that toxins won't leach out of the cedar box into the vegetables. I chose untreated pine for the base because it is strong ( people build houses from 2x4's ) and with a coating of deck stain, will hopefully last a number of years in the outdoors. I prefer to avoid treated lumber even though they stopped using arsenic ( or more accurately chromated copper arsenate) some time back. 

Enough rambling - time to start building. With apologies to John Brown who I'm sure spent the day keeping the TV safe.


Step 1: Stuff You Need

All the wood was bought from Lowes. We spent about $160 on wood and screws. The 2x4 lumber is cheap and the entire frame cost $17.40 in 2x4s. The bulk of the budget went on the Cedar boards which is pricey stuff. However, if we have a prolific vegetable season, this should pay for itself in no time at all.

Wood:
  • 2x4x96 Kiln Dried Pine studs  x 6
  • 1x8x12 Cedar Board x 2
  • 1x8x8 Cedar Board x 3
  • 1x4x12 Cedar Board x 1
  • 1x4x10 Cedar Board x 1

Fasteners:
  • 1-1/4" Star Drive All Weather Self Tapping Screws Box of 100
  • 2-1/2" Kreg All Weather Self Tapping Pocket Hole Screws
I guess you could use nails but I prefer the controlled clamping of screws and they tend not to back out over time like nails do.

Tools:
  • Table Saw - for ripping and cutting ends to length. Boards are too wide for my mitre saw
  • Mitre Saw - for cutting the 2x4's to length
  • Power Drill for making pockets holes and screwing in screws
  • Kreg Pocket Hole Jigs and Clamp
  • Wood Glue (I prefer Elmers - sets fast and is crazy strong)
  • Set Square for checking right angles
  • Pencil or pen for marking cut lengths
  • A 4ft clamp and a 6" clamp - not strictly neccessary but it serves as a third hand
  • Measuring device (steel tape at least 10ft long will work the best)
  • 5/8" Forstner Bit for making drain holes. Any other large size drill bit will work. I just happen to like Forstner bits. 
  • Sunscreen and a Springbok Rugby cap to keep the sun out of your face if you are working outside. 
  • Personal protective equipment like safety glasses, dust mask and whatever else you feel you need to keep you safe. Power tools can inflict massive amounts of life threatening injury in an instant, so please make sure you understand safe operation of your tools. If not, get training and always read the safety instructions that accompany your tools.





Step 2: Build the Box

In order to get the wood home from Lowes, it has to fit in the car (Note to self: buy a truck already), I had them cut the Cedar boards into 6 foot lengths. The base and the sides will be constructed from the 8" wide boards. I hate getting my wood cut in the store because they inevitably miss the dimension by 1/8" to 1/4" depending on who does the cutting on any particular day. For this project, it does not matter that much - it's not fine grade furniture.  If you build everything with reference to the left end, then you can adjust for unequal lengths on the far end. Things may look a bit raggedy but then only on the far end. 

The first thing to do is to remove the staples form the boards. I have no idea why, but just about every board had staples in. They come out easily as Cedar is pretty soft wood. 

The base is built from 3 of the 8" wide by 6ft long boards. The boards are joined together using pocket hole joinery. This is a quick way to make really strong joints. 

On one edge of 6ft x 8" board, set the Kreg Jig for 3/4" and make a pocket at 8 inch intervals. Then slide a second board next to the first and use a clamp to align the left edge and keep the boards together. Set the torque adjustment on the screw driver to prevent stripping the screw out. You can practice on a piece of scrap to get the torque setting right. Cedar is very soft so keep the torque low. Screw in the first 1-1/4" exterior self tapping screw.

Work your way down the board until you have all the 1-1/4" exterior self tapping screws in.

Now make pocket holes on the 3rd 6ftx8" board and screw to the first 2 boards so that you have a base 3 boards wide by 6ft long. All the boards are aligned on the left edge. If the wood is not all exactly 6ft long, the right end will be a bit raggedy. If this is too extreme, you can use a hand held circular saw to trim the far end flush. In my case the boards were all +/- 1/8 inch so I let them be.


Now it's time to do the long vertical sides. Make pocket holes every 8 inches along one edge of each of the two 6ft by 8" side boards. It is useful to clamp the side board to the base panel to keep it properly aligned while you screw the side to the base. Make sure you keep the left edges aligned with the base.

The 8" boards are not exactly 8" wide so use a tape measure to measure the inside distance between the 2 side boards. You should have 2 off-cuts from the original 8" boards that you can use as the end boards. They will need to be cut down on the table saw to match your inner measurement. In my case, the end boards needed to be cut to 20".

Do not cross cut the boards on a table saw with the fence in place. This is very dangerous. Measure the cut length using the fence and then move the fence out of the way before making the cut. Alternately, you can insert a 0.75" thick piece of wood between the edge of the end board and the fence, measure up and then slide the 0.75" piece of wood out of the way so that the edge of your board clears the fence. If you cross cut with the fence in place the board can get wedged leading to damage of the saw, the board and most importantly yourself.

Step 3: Adding Depth

With the basic box complete, the depth is not sufficient for vegetables, so we need to extend the sides upward. This is what the 1x4 Cedar boards are for. They will give us an overall inner depth of 10 3/4" which is plenty for the veggies.

The process of attaching the 1x4x6ft extensions is the same as attaching the 8" side panels. Make pocket holes every 8 inches. Then clamp the 1x4x6ft piece to the top edge of the 8" side board and use the 1-1/4" self tapping screws to attach the 4" board to the 8" board. Theoretically 4"+8" = 12" but lumber dimensions are measured before drying so when lumber gets dried, it shrinks. The final size is always smaller than stated. For example, a 2x4 is actually 1.5" x 3.5"

The ends are attached in the same fashion. Drill pockets on the 3 sides as shown in the photo. A lot of pockets but we want the board to withstand the pressure of the soil.

With the remaining lumber, the long 6ft piece of 1x4 was ripped down to two 1-1/4" wide pieces and screwed to the side of the box both for decoration and to conceal the join between the 8" and 4" wide pieces. The Kreg pocket hole drill does a great job of drilling a counterbored hole. These holes were drilled every foot. The added benefit of these strips is that they will strengthen the boards and help to reduce flexing due to the weight of the soil and water. The base frame will help with this also but we will get to the frame later.

At this point the box should be complete. You can take a break if you wish. Or you can start building the base frame.
 

Step 4: Frame Legs

The frame legs consist of 2 different length 2x4's: 19" and 24-1/2"  Use a mitre saw or table saw to cut the 2x4's to length. You will need a total of 6 legs. Each 2x4 will give you 3 x 24-1/2 pieces and 1 x 19" pieces. So 2 x 2x4 will give you all the long leg pieces and another 2x4 will give you the remaining 19" pieces. Keep cutting until you have 6 of each length.

Now take a 19" piece and 24-1/2" piece and glue them together with wood glue. Clamp them together to prevent them from moving and counter bore holes on the 19" side. Then use the 2-1/2" Kreg all-weather screws to screw them together. I used 4 screws per leg for the first couple of legs and then dropped to 3. I think 3 is plenty since the faces are glued together.

The Box will be resting on the edge of the 19" piece which is very sturdy. The extended height of the 24-1/2 piece will provide support to the long vertical sides of the box keeping them from bowing out under the weight of soil and water. Practically the sides of the box are plenty strong but I don't take chances and the 2x4's are cheap insurance.

Keep gluing and screwing until you have 6 legs prepared.

Now turn the box over so that the bottom faces skyward. We will assemble the rest of the frame in-situ. I've always wanted to use in-situ in a sentence and now I have!



Step 5: Completing the Frame

Each set of two legs get attached with a 19" cross piece. With the remaining 2x4's you will need to cut as follows:

5 x 19" long pieces for cross bracing.
4 x 28" pieces for rails across the front and back. Don't cut these until last. Measure your actual dimensions and cut accordingly because if you don't get the 30" pieces exactly right, you can compensate by adjusting the length of these pieces. 
2 x 30" pieces for the top. 

This will all become clear from the photos.

Attach the legs to each other using 3 pocket holes and glue on either end. When you are done, you will have 3 leg pairs.

Now make 3 pockets holes on each end of the 30" pieces and use these to join the legs together. Use glue in all joints and use the 2-1/2" Kreg screws. A box of 50 screws will not cut it.... buy 100 screws (you get 50 per box)

Now measure the spacing between legs and cut your final rails to match this measurement. It should be around 28" but you may need adjustment depending on the accuracy of your 30" cuts. These are screwed and glued in place 6 inches from the bottom ends (see drawing side view).

With everything screwed together, you now have a rock solid sturdy frame that will carry a ton of weight. Most of the weight is carried by the vertical 19" 2x4 which is the secret to the strength of this design. At least I like to think so! Try breaking a short 2x4... this stuff is very strong. 

With the remaining Cedar off-cuts, I made a bunch of "feet" for the legs. This will isolate the pine from ground contact and improve the rot resistance. A 4x4 share of cedar will work fine. You do not have to be precise here.









Step 6: Final Touches

Drainage holes were cut at roughly 8" intervals using a 5/8" forstner bit. I made a mistake and cut a set of holes roughly down the middle, slightly to the side of the main beam that runs lengthways across the bottom. A later decision to run gutters to catch overflow resulted in me having to plug the center holes because there wasn't enough space to install the gutters.

To capture the overflow from the drainage holes, the cross beams of the frame were notched to accept one half of a 2" PVC pipe. The PVC pipe was cut using a table saw. Please be very careful doing this and use a push-stick so that your fingers are far away from the blade at all times. A pipe cap was also slit in 2 and glued to the ends to ensure overflow always runs out of one end (within reason..... install with a slight tilt to the side you want to drain out of)

The notches were drawn onto the cross beams using the slit PVC pipe end as a template and then a jig saw was used to cut the notches. The cuts were smoothed using a rasp and then a file.  The slit PVC tube sits slightly below the surface so that there is a small air gap between the bottom of the bed and the PVC tube. This should help things stay dry and prevent mold growth.

The shelf consists of 3 2x4 pieces that are screwed to the lower rails on either side. The shelf pieces are 20-1/2" long. Your measurement may vary if your rails are not exactly centered with respect to the legs. Measure your actual length and cut accordingly. Working this way allows you to make adjustments as you go. If you cut all the wood up front, you have to be very careful to get everything exactly right. Cutting a little later, allows you to correct for inevitable imperfections - this is hand made after all.

Flip the frame over and use pocket hole screws to secure the shelf pieces. The shelf pieces are spaced 4-1/4 apart, measured either side of the center piece.

The final staining was done using Olympic 6 year deck stain. Only the frame was stained. The bed was left natural so as not to contaminate the vegetables. A weight test was conducted - It handles 200 pounds no problem. The volume of the box is roughly 12 cubic feet. The density of potting soil wet is roughly 50 lbs / cubic foot (web sources - not sure how accurate this is ). This means the frame will be supporting 600lbs of soil. Each leg will therefore support 100lbs.

For soil, we followed the recipe for square foot gardening which calls for equal parts of cow manure, peat moss and vermiculite. In our case, roughly 4 cubic feet of each. 

And that is that for the making of the planter box. We should be eating plenty of fresh home grown vegetables this season.


Comments

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kaydub0 made it!(author)2017-04-21

Great Instructable! I used what lumber I could find cheap locally, 2x6 and 1x12 redwood, and a bunch of fir 2x4's site milled from some trees I had taken down a few years ago (which was a bit warped). Made the bed 4'x8', so it fit with my wife's current layout, and added a set of legs and bracing to help support the extra weight. Perfect project to learn how to master my new pocket hole jig!

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SteveC47 made it!(author)2017-04-18

Nice planter box build. I have not built this, but plan on using some of your ideas on my own. One thought, when making the cut outs for your pvc pipe drains, try using an appropriately sized diameter hole saw to cut the half round notches.

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Roboticexile made it!(author)2015-07-09

Thank you for an excellent and very detailed Instructable.

I altered the design slightly to add extra depth, and constructed the main body from 38mm scaffold boards (low cost, high strength). I then lined it with 1200gsm damp proof membrane, stapled around the rim, with holes in the bottom for drainage. There's then about a 40mm deep layer of 20mm shingle before the soil, to aid drainage.

We then primed the wood with a spirit-based primer, followed by two coats of external grade wood paint in satin. I also added a 75mm wide rim to the top, as it hides the edge of the DPC membrane, and frames the foliage nicely.

It looks the part, and is producing enormous root vegetables. We're considering installing a drip-hose irrigation system just under the lip, to save having to water the trough each evening.

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LeoM79 made it!(author)2016-10-27

Hey, great job!

Was it much cheaper using the scaffolding? I really want to build a lower cost version of this (poor student...) but not lose the great design. Most important of course is making sure that the materials I use don't leech anything nasty into the soil and veg. But surely anything I use will be fine as long as it is well lined with plastic sheeting and weed membrane? Also, does your scaffolding not show any signs of rotting??

Any thoughts on this massively appreciated. :)

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MidnightMaker made it!(author)2015-07-20

That looks awesome!

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Silhouette01 made it!(author)2015-08-03

I was the guy from San Francisco who had trouble getting Cedar and settled for some rough redwood from Home Depot. Made a mistake and got two inch planks which made for some really thick boards but I think it turned out well. My wife requested a waist high planter and this article was extremely helpful. We decided to go for a wider planter. The dimensions are 36" wide by 72" long and 12" deep. Mostly everything stayed the same. Let me know if you guys got any questions!

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LeoM79 made it!(author)2016-10-27

Hey, great job building a great design! Just wondering, was it much cheaper using the Redwood? I've set myself the task of building the lowest cost version of this but without losing the great design. Most important of course is making sure that the materials I use don't leech anything nasty into the soil and veg. But surely anything I use will be fine as long as it is well lined with plastic sheeting and weed membrane?

Any thoughts on this massively appreciated. :)

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Wynken made it!(author)2016-04-18

That looks great!

I'm almost done building my plantar. I live in Toronto. April weather here is unpredictable. So a cover for cold nights or days is needed. I've had numerous ideas about how to build a cover. I see you used plastic tubing. That will work really well. A simply but brilliant idea! Thanks for sharing your pictures. I'll post mine when I'm done. BTW I used 5/4" cedar decking boards from Home Depot.

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MidnightMaker made it!(author)2016-03-15

Wow, that turned out very nicely!

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Akmarstall made it!(author)2016-07-31

For someone with minimal building skills, I'm proud to say I made this planter. The directions were clear and the measurements were very helpful. Instead of a vegetable garden, my daughter and I made this into a miniature fairly garden with a water feature. Thank you for such an inspirational Instructable!

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MidnightMaker made it!(author)2016-08-02

That is simply fantastic! Well done!

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KelseyM20 made it!(author)2016-06-27

Hello all, I am wanting my husband to make a few of these for me over the next year and I was wondering if any one else has experience with these beds in the desert, I live in Salt Lake City so we have a dry climate and I am concerned about the soil drying out.

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AndrewK5252 made it!(author)2016-06-09

Hello i am looking to do this project for my backyard and wondering how much in total all these materials cost. If you could give me the total it cost for you that would be great.

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MidnightMaker made it!(author)2016-06-11

I spent about $160 at the time. Read the comments below. Others have found ways to build for less. The cedar boards I used were the major cost driver. Cedar decking boards might be cheaper.

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AndrewK5252 made it!(author)2016-06-13

Ok thank you very much for this.That is very helpful.

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MidnightMaker made it!(author)2016-06-11

I spent about $160 at the time. Read the comments below. Others have found ways to build for less. The cedar boards I used were the major cost driver. Cedar decking boards might be cheaper.

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MidnightMaker made it!(author)2016-06-11

I spent about $160 at the time. Read the comments below. Others have found ways to build for less. The cedar boards I used were the major cost driver. Cedar decking boards might be cheaper.

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sawtooth1953 made it!(author)2016-05-29

Great Instructable. Thank you for documenting your project so well.

It's been about 3 yrs since you posted this Instructable. My wife just discovered it and wants me to make one. I'm curious what lessons you learned over the past 3 years about your construction, drainage, etc. Would you build one today exactly the same or is there some updated advice for making this project?

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MidnightMaker made it!(author)2016-05-29

I would add a mesh cover to keep insects, birds and squirrels out! There is a good example of a cover made with PVC piping further down (see comment by Silhouette01). A squirrel literally went nuts in our box last weekend and destroyed all the seedlings.

Thanks for your comments and enjoy the build!

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Cheese+Queen made it!(author)2013-04-19

Beautiful box!!! Clear instructions! But...isn't there always one?.. For the price of just one of those several power tools you call out, the wood and screws, and wow your time(pocket set screws. really?) you could buy an awful lot of veggies. And even cedar isn't forever. Aesthetic, spastetic, Is this a planter box, or a show piece?

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Cheese+Queen made it!(author)2013-04-19

Also, a 6 foot long garden? At best one or two trips to the produce dept.Large plastics totes set in a PVC frame..3 tines as long at 1/3 the cost.

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gensd made it!(author)2015-01-15

A 6' long garden bed isn't unusual, I currently have a 4'x8' raised greenhouse Guarden bed, and am planning on making a couple of these boxes. For some people, it's not about the end product (vegetables) it's about having a garden, maintaining the garden, and enjoying the fruits of your labor. To simply put a price tag on this isn't the point. Also, any kit you could buy for less would have low quality wood and fall apart within a year. I did a ton of research before we built my potting bench. For about $250 I have a $800 value redwood bench that we can proudly say we built, and will last for years.

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TalLngHair made it!(author)2016-05-05

Very nice looking bench.

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gensd made it!(author)2016-05-05

Thanks! It's been working well, still looks great!

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MidnightMaker made it!(author)2013-04-19

Thanks... I think!

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MidnightMaker made it!(author)2013-04-19

Thanks for the comments. The power tools I have had for a long time. They are not the greatest quality but they get the job done. I have been a maker since forever. A large number of the furniture pieces in my home were made by me. Building the box the way it is is an extension of the furniture building techniques I use. Building is therapy for me. I built this for my wife who is thrilled to have it. It wasn't about building the cheapest planter box.

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edoremus made it!(author)2014-05-09

Great box I'm going to make one this weekend. The box is a great balance between functionality and grace. Not only do I want some homegrown herbs but also when I look out the back window I want to see something that fits well with the landscaping. By the way cost -- What is the cost of any hobby and what is the benefit. I think if you lived in an apartment or an RV you may not want to build this project...

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MidnightMaker made it!(author)2014-05-09

Thanks - having an aesthetically pleasing box was important to me. Post pictures when you are done. There are some great examples of in these comments of other people's builds.

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PBR+Street+gang made it!(author)2016-04-25

Thanks for the great ideas! I made mine with some used wood so I modified the box a bit and also added a sub-irrigation design .

Thanks again and happy gardening!

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MidnightMaker made it!(author)2016-04-26

Looks great!

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mnbv0987 made it!(author)2016-03-04

You might want to line the inside of the box with plastic (cutting holes lined up with your drainage holes) to protect the wood from moisture, which will eventually warp and rot it. It's optional; but it depends on how long you want it to last. I'd expect a couple years with no plastic, 10-15 years with plastic.

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MidnightMaker made it!(author)2016-03-15

Mine is still in good shape after 3 years. I added fresh soil this weekend getting ready for another season. I wanted to avoid the use of man-made materials as much as possible since they could introduce chemicals we may not want in our vegetables.

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Silhouette01 made it!(author)2015-07-13

I was very excited to find this article. I am having sticker stock though as I can't find any place that sells cedar in or near San Francisco. Lowes and Home Depot doesn't carry it. I asked a local lumber yard and they quote me $8.70 per ft! Holy moly, just lumber alone will be over $600. Anybody got any ideas for me?

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MidnightMaker made it!(author)2015-07-20

Cedar is certainly an expensive choice, but not $8.70 per foot! The lumber yard must be quoting you nicely finished and planed cedar at that price! I spent a total of $160 for all the wood - still pricey but there are no signs of rot yet so maybe a worthy choice. As @silhouette01 mentioned below, rough redwood could be a good option for you if cedar is not available. I wanted to make sure that the wood would survive in it's natural state so as to avoid chemicals leaching into the vegetables - cedar is a suitable choice. If you are using the planter for non-edibles, you have other choices.

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Roboticexile made it!(author)2015-07-16

Try scaffold boards. With some sanding and a little paint, they'll last just as long, but at a fraction of the price.

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Silhouette01 made it!(author)2015-07-16

Scaffold board will rot in a few years and I rather not paint as it will leech into the veggie we plan on planting. Just came back from Home Depot and went with their 2"x12"x8' Rough Redwood for $29. Got three of those and one 12' at $46. Total came out to exactly $150. We plan on making the planter 6 feet by 3 feet.

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Malkaris made it!(author)2015-05-17

made mine a combo wicking bed. the slide and is not in the design...
one bit of advice. build it on site unless you have strong backs to help transport.

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MidnightMaker made it!(author)2015-07-20

Look's great!

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Robbie79 made it!(author)2015-06-01

I have been meaning to build something similar for a while, thanks for the inspiration. Clearly, I have gone a little free style with the timber. I was aiming to keep the cost to a minimum.

Thanks again for the instructions. (Good luck in the RWC!)

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jerry.geistjr made it!(author)2015-04-21

Great job... So I followed your plans to the most part. My wife did not want a 6 foot box, so mine is 4' long x 18" deep by 11" tall and is made primarily of 2x6 rip torn cedar boards that I had laying around and only bought 1x4's for the shelf. I do have one question, how did you cut the PVC cap in half? My first attempt did not go as planned... :)

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MidnightMaker made it!(author)2015-04-21

That looks great! Clamp the PVC cap to work table using vice grips to clamp the wall section of the cap - the one jaw of the vice grips goes into the cap, the other jaw under the table. Hope that makes sense! Then use a hacksaw or jig saw to cut it in half.

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godson1952 made it!(author)2013-04-23

LOL,A super great idea to get the hubby build for the wife.As you mentioned about the tools
& materials.Well I'm not bragging but I do own all of them & also I can make all my own material,For I'm very lucky to also have my own LM2000 Nowoods bandsaw mill.So now I'll be making these from scratch.A great idea,you got my vote.I'll try different materials.Cause we don't have ceder here in Alberta.I know of wood known by different names called "black popular,or balm.Well I know it resistes rot when wet,So I'll use the for the box & use pine for the supports.And also keep watching for brilliant ideas.

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MidnightMaker made it!(author)2013-04-23

One of the other comments further down suggested using pond liner for the bed. That should help the wood survive a long time but I'm sure research is required to prevent plastics leaching out into your plants if you are doing vegetables.. As with all the other potential makers of the box, post pictures when you are done - I'd like to see them

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gensd made it!(author)2015-01-15

You can also paint the inside with Henry's Asphalt Emulsion. I grew up in a family business constructing ponds and growing the plants. We always sealed the wood or concrete with asphalt emulsion, since it gets into the cracks, etc. and won't pierce like liner.

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brenniep made it!(author)2014-06-18

I loved the design for this box so much that we had to make two! I'm only 43, but I have pretty bad arthritis and could no longer do the kneeling, bending and squatting needed for gardening...even in low boxes because I'd get stuck down there and couldn't get back up. Yikes! These have given me the ability to have a wonderful garden again. Honestly, I didn't know how to do the pocket holes for screws like you did, so a few do show, but I tried to "toe screw" most of them, so they are hidden. for those that show, I used screws with heads that are sort of nice looking....if that's possible. Haha! I didn't put a solid bottom in for two reasons...one, to save some money in the cost of lumber since I was making two boxes, and two, because I just don't personally have the skills with tools that were needed....I am a girl, after all! I think I did ok, all in all, though. I laid burlap on the wire mesh and put pea gravel over the top of that to hold the soil in. To finish it off, I added a drip irrigation system under mulch. Talk about an almost "hands off" garden! I really, really love it. Thanks so much for sharing this plan!

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HannaV made it!(author)2014-12-06

How did the bottomless box work out for you this season? These are such gorgeous planters!

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brenniep made it!(author)2014-12-06

It worked out really well! I don't think that I've ever gotten so much out of a garden! I couldn't believe it. I'm very, very happy with the boxes. No maintenance, whatsoever, other than turning on the spigot once in a while. :)

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HannaV made it!(author)2014-12-06

Thank you! Now that winter has finally hit, I'm having fun picking out projects for next year -- this will make the list!

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MidnightMaker made it!(author)2014-06-19

Wow, your boxes came out great! That's an excellent Idea for the bottom. Thanks for posting the picture - nice work!

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Jaxoat made it!(author)2013-04-23

Nice design. I may try an 8' version for this summer.

I had the same concern mentioned previously about the pocket holes being a water passage into the wood, I think inverted would be better. I wonder how biscuits and glue would work with cedar - I'll have to look into that.

I do have a question about the stand. I see some notches in the cross pieces when I look at one of the last pictures closely (read it first on the phone). Are those for any particular reason? I did not see any reference and figured you pulled something out of my bag of tricks when you made the drainage holes.

Thanks for sharing.

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