Step 7: add a back

measure your box and cut some masonite slightly smaller. i think i went 1/4" smaller in both dimensions, making the masonite piece 1/8" smaller than the frame exterior all around. same cutting technique here as with cutting the chipboard strips.

before i screwed my masonite on, i ran a strip of weather seal all around the back. this will prevent light from leaking out of the back edges and distracting from the beauty of whatever you stick in the front of this thing.

the masonite back is going to give your box strength and shape. make sure that your box is square before you put in too many screws. to make sure the box is square, measure from corner to corner in both directions. if the measurement is not the same, your box isn't square!
In brandbagshop.net today, bought a beautiful brand bags.Good quality and cheaper prices.
 great thanks so much I cant afford to buy and need a box for a project printed but couldnt figure out pfd download for free?  but great thanks
Im working on similar project. www.loudervisions.com has some awesome 3d paint frames that will make the project all the more creative. THX for the info and project kernel. <br />
how did you cut the plexi glass?<br />
&nbsp;i used my circular saw. be sure to wear a dust mask and eye protection... the plexi shards can mess you up.&nbsp;
Ya in the past when I&nbsp;used saws like that it shattered <br />
Wow, this is exactly what I was looking for! I'll probably do this on a much smaller scale, and maybe use a row of hidden LED lights or maybe one color-changing LED bulb. Thanks! and 5*s
<p style="margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Arial">&nbsp;LEDs would definitely be an awesome addition to the box. In fact, if I had to build these again, that's probably the route I'd go. You could get a lot nicer light with less power and thinner box.&nbsp;</p><div>&nbsp;</div>
Looks good man, I was thinking of building one myself, a simpler model since I don't have all the tools to make this one, and post an instructable up. Hope you don't mind?
go nuts and have fun! like i said, the kernel for this came from a readymade article that i could never find anywhere... hope it works out!
I found everything but compact fluorescent lights, I can't find wireless ones that are shorter then 12 inches. If someone can heres what I was going to do: 1.Build or get a simple wood frame 2.Stencil a design on with freezer paper. 3.Wrap Fabric tight around frame and staple it on opposite side. 4.Install 2 opposing fluerestent lights and hang up.
I raked the net for something like this! THANKS! Can you give a cost estimate for the project?
There's a complete parts list and cost breakdown on step 1. The total came to $195.04. you could probably get things cheaper than home depot, though. or recycle parts from other things.
Would love to see you add this to my new group.<br/>Hope to see you there.<br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.instructables.com/group/fixit/">Home Repair, Refurbishment, and New Projects</a><br/>
holy crap! freakin awsome luv the idea but its too costly for me :)
Great Instructable! To get around the bottom weighted lighting, I'd use one of those circular flouresent tubes you commonly see in Kitchens. Mount it in the center and the reflector is no problem. A nice peice of white tranlucent plastic would make a good diffuser so there would be no Hot Spot in the middle. Although your rice paper looks like it does a nice job.
I remember seeing a similar project in ReadyMade a while ago. I like your documentation better, though. Even with the reflector, it looks like the light is a bit bottom-heavy. Is the effect better in person? Also, why not paint the frame? I'm not a big fan of the chipboard look and I don't think it works well with the black and white images.
i was told that readymade did something similar, but i could never find documentation of it online... so i built my own. i'm sure they're probably relatively similar. the light is much smoother in person than it looks from my photos. and it's a cool blue (due to the rice paper and the "cool white" bulb). i'll try to take a shot without a flash to see if it comes out better. as far as the chipboard finish... i'm a fan of raw materials. i like seeing what things are made of. and i happened to have a sheet of chipboard laying around. for like $20-30 more, this could be made from birch ply and would probably look much more "finished". and nearly anything would be a more paintable surface than chipboard. it's got all sorts of pits and valleys in it.
I think it's an excellent choice of materials. Very deconstructivist-like. Reminds me of the famous Gehry house in L.A. Frank Gehry would dig your work I'm sure! The only thing I dislike is the cords that hang down from the box. And I personally might have made the wood front extend out a little bit from the side panels instead of being flush with them...so it looks like a matte frame. But you obviously have a good design sense.
The wire joints should be made inside a metal box, either an electrical junction box or inside the lighting fixture. Exposed wire joints in a wood box is a fire hazard, this includes the switch. I would put a switch box throught the side of the box and use a regular room light toggle switch or drill a 1-1/2" hole through the bottom of the box and a 7/8" hole throught the fixture bottom and set your push-button switch in it. The cord needs to be pulled through a 1/2" romex connector or cord grip placed in the hole of the junction box or the fixture. The unprotected wires running through the sharp edged holes in the fixture is dangerous and a violation of the National Electrical Code. Safety First!!
That should be a 3/8" hole for the push button switch, not a 7/8" (1/2" conduct hole size), but always check the dimension of the switch that you are using before drilling the hole.
Re: Choice of reflective material<br/><br/>I've been faced with this decision before and recalled that foil is generally considered a poor choice due to both its % reflectivity and the difficulty in keeping it flat and installing it. Checked 2 sites on the net and got these numbers (na=no additional info). Flat white paint is probably easier to apply and isn't electrically conductive. Yeah it takes a while to dry but that just gives you more time to think about girls (or boys)!<br/><br/><em>% Reflectivity</em><br/>Mylar: 90-95/90-95<br/>Flat white paint: 85-93/75-80<br/>Semi-gloss white: 75-80/na<br/>Gloss white:70-75/na<br/>Flat yellow: 70-80/65-70<br/>Aluminum foil: 70-75/60-65<br/>
Wow, this could liven up any room. And your pictures are well done, except for a few, but still very good documentation. It is a bit pricey, but then again, a real lightbox could cost alot more. U could also use these for drawing, well without a picture, but alot of artists like to use lightboxes for tracing. So this is a multiuse item. Good job!

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