* Disclaimer: This mod has you working with a high wattage power supply. If you damage yourself or your printer I am not responsible! *


Nov 29 2016

Description: This mod will enable auto-bed leveling / tramming on your printer. The leveling only does single-plane best-fit offsets. It might not be able to compensate for warped beds and rods or a very unsquared printer.

Before you start:

*There are some issues with Thomas’ directions but it does mostly a good job explaining what you’ll be doing.

Step 1: Hardware Mod

Shopping List:

· LJ12A3-4-Z/BX Inductive Proximity Sensor Switch NPN DC6-36V

· Inductive printing surface

- - - Black Wanhao buildtak mat on metal bed

- - - 3mm (or thinner) glass directly on metal bed

- - - 3mm (or thinner) glass with aluminum foil squares glued on underside at sensing points. Start with a full foil underside surface until you know where the sensing points are. Then cut down the foil into smaller squares and glue.

· Two 1/4W resistors (Pick one of the these pairs. They’ll all work.)

- - - 390K and 100K

- - - 39K and 10K

- - - 3.9K and 1k

· (2 pieces) 6in of insulated braided wire

· Heat shrink tubing 4/5 AWG

· Solder, soldering iron, ect

· Misc. wire cutting tools

· Electrical tape

· 40PCS Dupont 10 CM Male to Female Jumper Wire Ribbon Cable

· 3D printed mount for sensor https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1924458


1. Print and attach a sensor mount for your printer.

2. Solder together a voltage divider and connector plugs to the sensor. Don’t take shortcuts! You’re dealing with high voltage. Heat shrink then tape everything up. See diagram and photos.

- a. 5V out is a female dupont

- b. Gnd from voltage divider is female dupont

- c. Blue Gnd wire is male dupont

- d. Brown 24V Input wire is male dupont

3. Solder together your braided wire and connectors for power

- a. V+ 24V from power supply is female dupont

- b. V- Gnd from power supply is female dupont

4. Turn off your printer.

** Update the firmware on your printer before connecting the sensor wires.**

5. Flip over your printer and screw down braided ends of power wires to V+ 24V and V- Gnd. Draw out the other ends through the printer’s side opening.

6. Mount your sensor’s blue end so it’s about 1mm above the tip of the hotend. Tighten the screws firmly. Train the wire up through the clip in the top of the base and down the side of your printer. Give enough cable slack so it’s not pulling on the sensor at any hotend position.

7. Remove the z-stop button and mount from your printer.

<p>Can someone confirm this is working?</p><p>Will the I3+ LCD still work with auto bed leveling enabled?</p>
<p>I tried the sw update but apparently without success. I did the update withing the arduino ide and without errors. No I cannot command the my i3 plus. Do I have to upgrade the lcd as well. I can connect to the printer using repetier host but when I try to command it nothing happens??</p>
<p>Yea. Updating the LCD firmware might be needed. Here are instructions on how to update the firmware. When I setup the SD card I had to format it and copy the files using only linux. Otherwise the lcd doesn't recognize the card. </p><p><a href="http://www.wanhao3dprinter.com/FAQ/ShowArticle.asp?ArticleID=79" rel="nofollow">http://www.wanhao3dprinter.com/FAQ/ShowArticle.asp...</a></p>
<p>Isn't that only required to get the LCD working? I thought that the controllerboard should work without updating the lcd?? Anything else to look for?? </p>
<p>I'm really looking forward to trying this. Thanks for posting. What is your firmware based on? The official release from Wanhao?</p><p>https://github.com/garychen99/Duplicator-i3-plus</p>
<p>Nice post :)<br><br>May i ask why such an old version of the Arduino tool?</p>
<p>It wouldn't compile with the newer IDE. Maybe I did something wrong but from experience I know to try the older IDE if something won't compile in the newer.</p>
<p>I've not tried it personally yet but there was an update recently that I have heard may have corrected this, still need to see it myself though.</p>
Ahh good point, thanks :)
<p>Why don't you use the z-probe connector? I just saw it labled on the board.</p>
<p>The z-probe connector is connected to an atmega pin but was never setup in the firmware to be used. It might have been useful with Marlin-RC but they went with Marlin 1.0.x and didn't populate the connector for whatever reason.</p>
<p>Ok I studied your post and the video and now understood how this is supposed to work. <br>Now I wait for my sensor to give this a try. :)</p>

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