Step 10: Fold over the fingers

Bring the newsprint around over the front of the fingers.
Great post! Just moved to a cold climate & am already feeling the change in temp.
I have moved, too; and, am in an area (near Portland, OR) where winter temperatures seldom get or stay below freezing for more than a few hours. However, there is humidity and rain; and, it does chill a person. My bigger problem is that my doctor found the beginnings of some skin cancer on me. I have become very cautious about going outdoors when there are UV rays. But, I always enjoyed riding at night. In a few months a construction project will be finished and it will give me easy access to a nice area where I can ride in the very early hours before the sun comes up.<br><br>People in places like Chicago and Milwaukee are of the opinion that no one should be cold on a bicycle in the winter. There are whole web pages dedicated to winter cycling with all sorts of tips. Thank you for your comment.<br><br>
I'm a mitten man, but flat bars can be tough with mittens. It's hard to grip the bars and brakes simultaneously. swept back cruiser bars or drop road bars can work well with mittens.
There is a special product for bicycle bars called 'pogies' that fit over the ends. Think giant gloves for the bars. They can allow you to use much lighter gloves, or none at all, depending on conditions.<br><br>What I find works moderately well for me is to use a thick (2mm) pair of polyester/spandex gloves, with some cheap army surplus wool liners pulled over. My hands are not warm by any stretch of the imagination, but allow a great deal of finesse with the bicycle controls. Some spare bar tape keeps my hands from sliding around the bar ends.
This reminds me of this:<br> <br> <a href="http://www.oism.org/nwss/s73p926.htm">http://www.oism.org/nwss/s73p926.htm</a><br> <br> Cresson H. Kearny wrote the book on nuclear survival skills. The linked to page shows the author emerging from a trench shelter wearing improvised clothing made mostly of newspaper.<br> <br> This is a bit more hardcore than you are doing, but I'm going to guess you will find the link interesting.<br>
I used to frame houses, and we'd work outside all day until the temperature got below about 18 degrees F. The trick to keeping your feet warm is to keep the perspiration from your feet from making the insulation wet with a layer of plastic. You need a pair of loose-fitting shoes for this. I bought a special pair.<br> ~~ I'd use a thin sock (wool, silk, cotton) to keep the plastic away from my feet. I'd cut a garbage bag in half, vertically, and lay one of the halves down on the floor on its &quot;edge&quot;, and stick my toes into the corner, aligning the center of my foot along the &quot;edge&quot;. (By &quot;edge&quot; I mean the edge of the uncut, unfolded bag, if you held it upright by the top corners.) Begin with the part of the bag that's over your toes and flatten it against the top of your foot, and then bring up the part of the bag that's behind your foot, and wrap it around your ankles from the rear. Put your thick sock over it all. When putting on your shoes, be careful not to poke your toes through the plastic, and with a little careful forward-and-back sliding, try to leave a little slack in the plastic and the thick sock at the toes, so you're feet aren't all squeezed by the plastic, and so you don't poke a hole in it. And you don't want to stretch the thick sock so tight that it doesn't insulate. This the most important thing here is not to rip or poke through the plastic. This can be a little tricky at first.<br> ~~ This will keep your feet warm when it's really, really cold, but it will leave your feet a little funky at the end of the day, even if you're outdoors in temps lower than 20 degrees F. If you're going to be indoors all day, yuck! So if you're commuting to work, take a change of socks and shoes, and re-do the bag thing for the way home.<br> &nbsp;~~ Getting your insulation wet from the outside defeats it just as much as wetting it from the inside. Waterproof boots are required in wet conditions.<br> &nbsp; ~~ Your feet and your head can release a lot of body heat, so a warm hat is important too. Wool is better than synthetics here. If you spend a lot of time outdoors on cold days, your body acclimates itself, and the heat you retain at your feet and head (and elsewhere, but the rest is easier to keep warm) can aid your body in warming your hands, which helps when you have to limit your gloves for dexterity. In fact, we used to omit the gloves altogether, and people would drive by and think we were crazy for working without gloves in windy 20-degree weather, but we were comfortable.<br> ~~ This technique works too well to use when the temperature is much above freezing, so it's only for the really cold days. Which is fine, since it's kind of a pain in the neck to set it up.<br> &nbsp;~~ Silk long johns are awesome for cold-weather activity, not only because they keep you warm, but because they slide against your outer layers better than most other fabrics, and you don't get so fatigued by struggling against binding clothing, an obvious benefit for cycling.<br> &nbsp;<br>
The easiest way to keep your feet warm is to wear rubber boots over your shoes. For the hands, rubber gloves over some knit gloves. Sometimes insulated rubber gloves are good enough.
My toes are very sensitive to cold, from skiing. I've noticed a huge difference with just blocking my little piggies from the cycling induced wind. If there is any chance the air may drop below 25 degrees I won't leave home without a pair of wool socks and two plastic newspaper bags. I like to pull on plastic newspaper (doggie-doo) bags over my wool socks. I wonder at Combiing all three(wool, paper, plastic) under your shoes!
From my experience, the first effect is to crowd out considerable space for air, which is a great insulator. A combination of plastic and newsprint will produce perspiration that will make the newsprint moist. Space for air is pretty important. But, sometimes bigger shoes are hard to find, too.
There is a tendency towards one-piece construction in heavy duty winter gloves/mitts. After 1/2 hour of cycling, one-piece mittens can take over 24 hours to dry out. My layered system can be easily taken apart and dried in 2-3 hours, well before I need to ride home from work. I haven't thought about newsprint as a little extra insulatin in the mitts. I'll keep some strips handy for next time.

About This Instructable




Bio: I miss the days when magazines like Popular Mechanics had all sorts of DIY projects for making and repairing just about everything. I am enjoying ... More »
More by Phil B:MIG Cables HangerAn Easier KerfmakerMantel Clock Case
Add instructable to: