Washer Dryer Built In





Introduction: Washer Dryer Built In

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This is a basic write up of how I went about making my own washer and dryer built in.

I will not go into exact measurement details as your space will be much different than mine I am sure.

Please over look the finished pictures with the sag in the middle. As you will see following the steps we had to purchase new washer and dryer half way through.

Step 1: Installing the Cleat

The baskets we are using measure around 10 1/2 tall. This was perfect to use 2x12 board for solid support.

as you see here laying on the ground I used it to measure off of. installing the cleat at the same exact height all the way around. (very Important you hit studs here)

Step 2: Installing the Base

Install the crossbars to support flooring. (I know and understand laying the boards flat will not give me the best support) but it works best this way to cover with trim in the long run. and is supported every few feet as well.

Be sure to space and plan out the center supports for the baskets once you have it set screw it all down.

And jump around to test strength. (optional but fun)

Step 3: Adding the Flooring

I went with medium grade ply as it was going to be mostly covered 3/4 inch to add to the sturdiness.

Using my Kreg Rip-Cut https://www.kregtool.com/store/c48/saw-attachments...

I ripped my plywood down. also taking measurements needed to allow my dryer vent hose and outlet to remain accessible.

Last step here was 1X2 and finish the trim work.

Step 4: First Round of Paint

My wife has much better skill than i do when it comes to painting and trimming so I let her take over here.

Step 5: Adding a Middle Shelf

Using my 90 clamp and the kreg r3 https://www.kregtool.com/store/c13/kreg-jigsreg/p1... pocket hole jig

the shelf went together easily

Take note here the shelf it higher than my washer and dryer (old set) needed to support my top shelf

That is why the final pictures have a sag that has been fixed now.

Step 6: Finishing

The last part I did much like the first step.

I made a cleat system to hold the top shelf.

I cut my ply to fit over it all

I then used laminate flooring to cover the top and give it a pretty finished look.

Then took the same flooring and cut to fit on the back of the shelf look close you can see it.

The picture here is just a before picture. to show the progress.

happy to answer any question.



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We have a be nice policy.
Please be positive and constructive.




This is a project I have been contemplating myself for some
time. As others have noted, the need to access the rear of these appliances for
routine cleaning and maintenance is tantamount in the thought process when
building this type of setup. One of the ideas I had come up with was to make
the shelves that hold the appliance on heavy duty drawer slides. (They are
available all the way up a capacity of over 400 lbs.). That way you are able to
simply slide out the appliance for any maintenance need. To prevent them from
sliding out on their own due to vibration, you simply add a dowel pin lock
through hidden brackets that hold the moving shelf into place. This does
however add to the cost of the setup.

That is a great idea and could work flawless. if I remove my center shelf i have plenty of room to stand and get to the rear of the units. but your idea would be best if the room for the shelf wasn't there.

Nice work - I think that this sort of thing makes the wash / dry area look like it's meant to be rather than an after thought. I tried something similar a few years back but found that attaching the pedestal directly to the wall resulted in vibrations through that whole wall when the machine was on spin. Did you have this problem too? How did you tackle it?

Thank you Jusstanothernood,

I only notice the vibration on larger loads of jeans or other heavier wet items. normal cloths and everyday washes I have no issue. the back wall its attached to is the back side of my kitchen so its also not been an issue as if it may have been a bedroom or something i was sitting in trying to relax ect.

I would have no issue building this again.

Thank you Wrsexton!

Some potential gotchas:

This setup is difficult to maintain. I have to pull my washer from the wall about twice a year and clean out the screen on the water inlets. Everything needs to be done in a way that getting at the back isn't unreasonable:

* Strips of HDPE or kids crazy carpet where the feet of the washer rest. This allows much easier sliding out.

* A stool or stand that is the same height as the platform to support the front edge.


Remember that a washer with an unbalanced load tries to walk. Your support system has to be strong enough to handle this dynamic load.


Measure from the wall when the washer and dryer are in use. Both require hoses or vents at the back, pushing the appliances forward.


Make the top removable, or indeed, just sit on top of the appliances. If you do this, put the cute drawer bumpers on the bottom of the board so that it doesn't mar the finish.


If your controls are at that back of the machine then make sure the top doesn't interfere witht he controls. Or don't use a top and just make the center shelf top go all the way back.

Thank you for your input. and gives people more to think about when planning

my set up as stated below.

*The units have a good amount of room behind them. and about 6+ inch in front to move forward. if needed yes could find a stool or box to support the front if needed more room.

*The top is supported by the cleat and center shelf it does not touch the units.and not screwed or bolted down just held in place by weight.

Very nicely done. The end result is great. My business is repairing appliances, repairing these machine is a nightmare. You often have to get to the rear of the machines. If you build a platform on wheels to be able to slide each machine onto, or roll out sections that they sit on the issue is gone, problem solved. Front load washers are very heavy. Again, it looks great!

I do agree they are heavy. The top shelf is just laid on its cleat just holding on by its own weight.

the center shelf is not bolted in place and now just sandwiched between the top and bottom and does not budge. there is a decent amount of room behind plus around 6 inches plus in front to slide out.

I was able to easily get behind them and switch out the units once both were on the platform from the old to new systems.

But that did give me another cool idea you could build a small platform on some sort of heavy duty drawer sliders and easy slide out problem solved.