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Computers get hot, and they must be cooled. Your average store-bought PC uses a system of fans to pull heat off major components such as the CPU (central processing unit), graphics processor and hard drives. Then the hot air is blown out the back of the machine. That works just fine for most computers doing most jobs. But it's not always ideal, and it does nothing to impress your friends. The other option for dissipating heat is water cooling, or, really, liquid cooling, in which a combination of distilled water and propylene glycol is piped through the guts of the machine. Installing a liquid-cooling system isn't all that difficult, though it can be intimidating. Who can really benefit from this hot-rod project? Mainly, computer users who like to overclock their PCs and run them hard for gaming applications, video processing, sequencing the DNA of Amazonian tree frogs, and the like. Such people often work their processors into a heated frenzy, forcing the fans to run constantly and noisily.
Since liquid transfers heat more efficiently than air, water-cooled PCs can run significantly cooler. (In tests at Popular Mechanics, our liquid-chilled rig ran at 62.6 degrees Fahrenheit at idle - 27 degrees colder than a similar air-cooled computer.) You'll also be able to remove one or more fans, so your water-cooled system will run more quietly. Koolance, Thermaltake, Zalman and other companies sell a variety of water-cooling kits at prices ranging from $150 to $470. (You also can buy the parts piecemeal, but we suggest using a kit for your first water-cooled setup.) A water-cooling system includes a water block, hoses, pump, reservoir, and an external or internal radiator. Make sure you buy a kit that fits your PC's motherboard. It took us about an hour to hook up a Zalman Reserator 2.
For more, here's the original story.
Computers get hot, and they must be cooled. Your average store-bought PC uses a system of fans to pull heat off major components such as the CPU (central processing unit), graphics processor and hard drives. Then the hot air is blown out the back of the machine. That works just fine for most computers doing most jobs. But it's not always ideal, and it does nothing to impress your friends. The other option for dissipating heat is water cooling, or, really, liquid cooling, in which a combination of distilled water and propylene glycol is piped through the guts of the machine. Installing a liquid-cooling system isn't all that difficult, though it can be intimidating. Who can really benefit from this hot-rod project? Mainly, computer users who like to overclock their PCs and run them hard for gaming applications, video processing, sequencing the DNA of Amazonian tree frogs, and the like. Such people often work their processors into a heated frenzy, forcing the fans to run constantly and noisily.
Since liquid transfers heat more efficiently than air, water-cooled PCs can run significantly cooler. (In tests at Popular Mechanics, our liquid-chilled rig ran at 62.6 degrees Fahrenheit at idle - 27 degrees colder than a similar air-cooled computer.) You'll also be able to remove one or more fans, so your water-cooled system will run more quietly. Koolance, Thermaltake, Zalman and other companies sell a variety of water-cooling kits at prices ranging from $150 to $470. (You also can buy the parts piecemeal, but we suggest using a kit for your first water-cooled setup.) A water-cooling system includes a water block, hoses, pump, reservoir, and an external or internal radiator. Make sure you buy a kit that fits your PC's motherboard. It took us about an hour to hook up a Zalman Reserator 2.
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Signing UpStep 1Prepping your PC
Preparing your machine is the hardest part. Before you can hook up your water-cooling kit, you must remove your computer's motherboard. That means opening up the case, and unplugging all cards and cables from the board. Make sure whenever you unplug cards and cables, you pull from the connector, not the wire to keep the two from ripping apart. (Note: Take careful note of the setup, as you'll have to reconnect everything later.)
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I have a few questions...
1. could i use a peltier in a separate reservoir to cool the liquid?
2. could i use non-conductive oil in the setup, as the liquid?
cheers,
James.
But i do see your point.
Nice ible!
What case is that there?
Daniel =)
they submerge computers in that stuff so you should be safe in a leak
I've yet to fill it, or run it. It's a gigabyte GH-WIU02 : http://www.gigabyte.com.tw/Products/LiquidCooling/Products_Spec.aspx?ProductID=2341
I think they(Gigabyte) call it a 3D Galaxy II
It has this big 1/2" tubing, that when I put it on, wasn't easy to get on, let alone clamped.
The reason. I've asked, is there are two 4 way valves(for upgrading watercooling to the Video Card, later) that I have installed with those plastic locking strips, & it was a pain in the butt getting them in & on the chasis of this enermax Ubu-Chakra case..
I have a 8800GTS, that has a huge fan on it, and its never gone above 68C when OCed to 689/910 I figured I'd leave it, until I've saved up, buy the watercooling version of the 8800GTS, then set them both up with watercooling in SLI.
I did put in extra tubing, so I could pull some of it out, like the waterblock & pump housing/reservoir, then wrap the other parts in paper towels(I have heavy duty shop towels)
OK. Say I do unbolt the block from the CPU, will it be OK, if I leave it(CPU) in the MOBO, while I do this testing of the watercooling for 24 hrs?
It's a Q6600, that wasn't cheap, but then I don't want to ruin the evga 680i SLI board, 4 x 1GB Ballistix Tracer MEM, or other components!
or like the Instructable said
"ruin 2,500/3,000 worth of parts"!
DakotaJoe
post your instructable here: http://www.instructables.com/group/modthis/