Vent warm humid air into your house from the dryer. Don't send your nice heated air outside. When it warms up outside, quickly configure the lint trap to vent to the outdoors and save your air conditioning.  

Step 1: Cut the Holes

Cut 3 vent holes in the lid of a 5 gallon bucket. I am using a 4" can as a template, so that I will ensure a snug fit.
Diameter of the first 2 holes is slightly over 4" to accept the 4" dryer vent hose. (A jigsaw cuts the best, a drywall jab saw wants to get stuck.  I used a utility knife.  Scary!...but the cut was great.) The third hole is a half inch bigger (4 1/2" diameter) so I can use the scrap as a cover for the unused vent hole. I am using cans that just happen to be the right 4" size. The cans will be used later to stiffen up the ends of the dryer hose.
I have had one 20yrs. They work great. Mine I have no screan on top instead I have 5 holes 1 1/2" around the sides. The water catches the lint. Instead of bleach I put fabric softener or dawn.
<p>How much water do I need to fill? How often do you clean your screen? My lid is a pain to open, so I don't wish to mess with it every time I run the dryer. Thanks.</p>
Just keep your dryer vent hose from being submerged. 3 to 4 gallons is okay. I don't have to clean the screen very often, since the water catches most of the lint. We are a family of 2, and I clean it maybe twice during the cold months.
<p>Nice idea add a cup of BLEACH with water wouldn't hurt. But the air in whole house everyone breathe would hurt respiratory. This can be found in Wikipedia about BLEACH. Chlorine is a respiratory <a rel="nofollow">irritant</a> that attacks <a rel="nofollow">mucous membranes</a> and <a rel="nofollow">burns</a> the skin. As little as 3.53 <a rel="nofollow">ppm</a> can be detected as an odor, and 1000 <a rel="nofollow">ppm</a> is likely to be fatal after a few deep breaths. Exposure to chlorine has been limited to 0.5 <a rel="nofollow">ppm</a> (8-hour time-weighted average&mdash;38 hourweek) by <a rel="nofollow">OSHA</a> in the U.S.<sup><a rel="nofollow">[14]</a></sup></p>
It's against code to use flexible venting, only 4&quot; pipe without screws should be used. The flex duct catches a lot of lint in it and it can be a fire hazard.
Chlorine based bleach evaporates in a mator of hours. <br>You should use an algacide like copper sulfate (the blue weed killer). <br> <br>Anyway, this is on my to-do list.
I still had a reassuring bleachy smell even after 3 months with the same water, and nothing appeared to be growing in there. Please document your claim.
Sorry I should have bean more specific, there are two types of bleach. You probably used a Peroxide-based type. <br>http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bleach <br>http://www.rollitup.org/general-marijuana-growing/100551-how-quickly-does-chlorine-evaporates.html <br>
Thank for the reply. Yes, the lint flies all over the cars in my garage (which is covered by a roof but has 3 of its sides open). <br>PS I'm having problems in replying directly so I have to create a new comment.
<b>Don't use this project with a GAS DRYER.</b> <br>Ok, the main concern here is due to the risk of CM poisoning, only if the exhaust air is used to heat the room/home, right? <br>What if I just use the project to get rid of the lint and exhaust the hot air to the outside? Is it OK? <br> <br>Thanks.
Gas stoves and fireplaces are in regular use without any outside venting. The burning of natural gas is fairly clean. The biggest bulk of unwanted vapor from natural gas is water vapor. Carbon monoxide is present, too. My vent pipe on my gas water heater clogged in an unoccupied home I owned. After 2 days, all the windows condensed so much water vapor it looked like they had been rained on, and they sustained heavy damage. <br> <br>Remove lint from going outside? Is lint accumulating on outdoor objects at your place? Or is it clogging your exhaust hose? I'm trying to think of a reason why lint would be a problem outdoors. <br> <br>It would work well to remove lint. Of course you would only need to create only 2 holes instead of 3 so that no dryer vent air would go into the house.
I made a similar device about 7 years ago. I added a furnace filter cut to fit the bucket to capture any lint that made it through the water trap. It was a great way to keep my basement warm in winter.
So you cut it in a round shape and eliminated the cardboard edges? Did it keep the accordion shape?
Did the fiber filter get soggy? Did it make the water level and cleanliness of the water difficult to check? (because I can see through my screen wire to the water)
This is a good way to stop the lint from floating around after running the dryer. My only concern when I used a similar setup was the potential for unwanted fumes coming from the dryer. It was an electric dryer but I wasn't a fan of the smell. Instead of allowing the smelly dryer air to vent directly into the house, I built an air exchanger that passed the hot dryer air over a fresh air intake duct before getting exhausted outside. This allowed me to harness some heat from my dryer without having the stink fill my basement.
There is a scent. I kinda like it, but I gotta ask my neighbor what laundry products he uses, because his vent trap blowing into my driveway had stopped me in my tracks to enjoy it for a moment.
I like that you've included in your design a screen on the opening from the bucket to the room. I didn't have the screen (before using the heat exchanger) and some lint still managed to float around.
Great instructable! And great advice for not wasting hot air (which is what happens when you let warm dryer air just blow outside). <br> <br>This is ideal for any home with a wood stove as this can easily solve any low humidity and dry-air problems. <br> <br>Indeed, only use on ELECTRIC dryers. <br> <br>And I can only recommend putting a hygrometer at the opposite end of an open basement, or a nearby hallway or room. This way, you know the humidity levels (and whether or not to run the dryer). <br> <br>I'm working on a similar model that has a draft trap to easily allow air to vent outside (in summer) and inside (during winter). <br> <br>Thanks for sharing!
Draft Trap: There is an in-line trap that diverts air either into the room or out the other end of the hose. Sears and Home Depot http://wwww.sears.com/search=DEFLECTO%20EX12%20HEAT%20SAVER%20LINT%20TRAP?catalogId=12605&amp;autoRedirect=false&amp;storeId=10153&amp;yikes_prod=1696698595 <br> <br>Metal dampers in the HVAC section of Home Depot, but they only accommodated 6&quot; vent pipe. Might spark an idea. <br>4&quot; exists go here for picture: http://www.warrenpipe.com/hardware-store/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=11646 <br> <br>When I think about how much water I see coming from air conditioner condensate lines, or how much water a humidifier goes through, I would be very surprised if dryer air can compete with those.... but I don't have statistics. A hydrometer would be more accurate.
the lint makes great homemade paper
Don't use this project with a GAS DRYER. <br> <br>Gas dryers are also venting combustion products and pose the risk of carbon monoxide poisoning. <br> <br>One final note, be careful that all that extra moisture doesn't cause problem with mold in your home.
Great idea! There are a lot of good projects here for five gallon buckets.

About This Instructable


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Bio: I am a bath installer by trade. I also enjoy gardening. I just celebrated my 19th wedding anniversary.
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