Step 8: Finishing

Servo motor:
The servo has two sides! Choose the right one. You will see with testing that it returns to its base position starting up. This movement should not make a hole in the nice head of the bride! (Eventually you can fix the limits of the movement in the script.)

Better to test the performance before glueing all together!
If the servomotor, and later on the whole butterfly clasps it wings regularly, and also when the light is changed, (flashing can do the job too) than all is right.

Glueing it together and giving it a paint.
When you are satisfied testing, than carefully adjust the wires, so that no wires stick out, and they are as short as possible. Choose the positions for the LED and the LDR on the hairpin, depending on its shape and length. Glue everything on the hairpin.
Where to put the battery? My idea was at the back of the dress, but my bride said NO! In my hair somewhere!!!
So I have chosen the smallest possible batteries to be fitted in some curl of her hair…

The butterfly wedding will be at the end of august!
Hi pintoc2! <br>Better late than never...:-) <br>The LDR is just a cheap one, less than one euro: <br>http://www.conrad.nl/ce/nl/product/140375/Fotoweerstand-serie-VT-Perkin-Elmer-VT-93-N2-Soort-behuizing-2pin-THT <br>range between 2K in light and 1000K or more in the dark <br>The resistor is a &quot;balance&quot; for the LDR. Normally 2K - 5K, depending a bit on the ambient light you experience. <br>The chip is running on around 3V, the number of batteries are your choice: the more (in parallel) the longer the butterfly stays alive. <br>The essence of the circuit is the LDR giving the analog input and the reaction of this signal in the servomotor. <br>You can try first with a &quot;big&quot; attiny45 on a breadboard, (programmable now with the Arduino IDE), or even an Arduino. LDR and a servo. For me the problem was to get it as small as possible. <br>ok, hopes this helps!
I've made several attempts at making this and have yet to get one that works. Has anyone other than the author completed this project and gotten it to work? The author seems un-willing to give any further information.
You only mention one (1) resistor in all of your instructions yet your photos show two (2) one large one at the top of your circuit board. what is it and what is it connected to. Also your instructions say connect resistor to PB2 and GND yet the schematic shows PB2 and VCC. which one is correct?
A couple of questions. Does it matter what the rating of the LDR is? and it looks like you are using a total of 8 batteries is that correct or are there only 4?
Very pretty. Just hope nobody tries to be helpful and shoosh the butterfly off your head! ;-O) 5 stars!
Awesome application. How did You program the ATtiny45?.
relly cool, you really can trick the people with this
Hobbyking has a servo a bit less then half the weight of the one you've got linked. It's design looks like it might work better as well:<br><br>http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=11735<br><br>Just in case the link doesn't work it's titled &quot;HobbyKing Ultra Micro Servo 1.7g for 3D Flight (Right)&quot;.<br><br>It comes in right- and left-hand versions so I suppose you'd have to give that some consideration.
Thx great, although for this wedding it will be too late...there are minus 9 items in stock! But i''l come back to the link....
Pretty cool.<br> I'd like to have a go at building this, but with zero background in electronic engineering a lot of the wiring instructions for the ATTINY and so on are gobbledegook. How about a nice, easy-to-follow line diagram and circuit?<br>I'm sure the lovely bride will look amazing!
I have added the schematics, the wiring should be clear now. Indeed the bride is very happy.
For some fine stiff wire, try some guitar strings.
Thats really cool, but (sorry to burst any bubbles) but you can get an aliform monarch butterfly that moves with memory wire and a battery for 20 bucks. While its fun to build something cool there isnt much fun re-inventing wheels.
Awesome!!! Would love to see the final product too. I would totally buy this for $10-15 too, depending on how nice/realistic it looked, FYI...
Not sure I'd categorize hiding fake bugs in the bride's hair as an &quot;enhancement&quot;. Certainly better than real bugs, but still pretty gross.<br> <br> To each his (or her) own...
It's not like someone is going to do that with a centipede or something so there's nothing gross about having a mechanical butterfly in your hair.
I found some wire .007&quot; dia, came from SS-wrapped auto hose, very flexible, about 3 lbs breaking strain.<br><br>Very handy to have about! Best way to harvest it is cut (w/Dremel) diagonally around the hose, half of the wire comes off in long lengths, half are short (being the ones you cut).<br><br>Shop around, I have found some hoses have a slightly bigger dia, and they are quite stiff. Auto wreckers have a selection, and it doesn't matter what condition the hose is in, you throw the rubber away, anyhow.
This looks like a lot a fun! I'd totally wear it.<br> <br>re muscle wire: it might be something to consider since you're using a small amount and the motion is small and subtle, but it's trickier than you think. We were discussing it on another forum and a colleague mentioned the following traits: <br><br>slow: depends on what you define as 'slow'. It's not super fast it's<br>definitely slower than your average solid state actuator, DC motor or<br>whatnot. I think it's response time would actually be quite nice for a<br>garment, but<br><br>hot: I haven't touched one yet, but they do get uncomfortably<br>warm/hot. My understanding is that it's actually the heat itself,<br>rather than the current that causes the reaction -- the current is<br>just a way to generate the heat. For his project, he was using about 8&quot; of wire<br>--He's been told it's not hot enough to burn you, but still..<br><br>current: they draw about 2 A. He says his wire was 1500 mils thick,<br>which perhaps needs a touch more juice than the 1200 mil thick ones we<br>used to use.<br><br><br>But yah, think about it! You can get starter kits at robotshop.ca
You will want the thinnest muscle wire you can find. Properly made, the wings should present nearly no load at all.<br><br>Thinner wire means less power/current required, and faster movement. Not that even thin muscle wire is fast.
You should consider using muscle wire for this project...would be less bulky and you could get similar movement by building it into the wings.
you did it!!<br> two years ago my best friend had asked me to make one for her marriage. i couldn't get a break through in automating it.<br> but you have achieved it!! <br>
Cool project!

About This Instructable




Bio: Trying not to produce, what will happen?
More by contrechoc:5 Simple ATtiny85 LDR Scripts In your own time! LCD Magic 
Add instructable to: