Introduction: Weld Free Electric Longboard

Picture of Weld Free Electric Longboard

This time, I want to show you how to make a weld free electric longboard.

My mission was to build a very professionell electric longboard at a price of 350-400€. It is very confortable to ride, because it has 97mm wheels. So small rocks don't affect you. Also you have less vibrations when you drive faster compared to smaller wheels.


  • Top Speed: 35km/h
  • Battery: 2x 6s 22.2V 5000mAh Lipo
  • Range: 20km

If you like my Instructable, please vote for me in the Make it Move Contest :-)

Update 01.05.2016:

Added Video

### Falls Jemand aus dem Raum Dortmund / Unna / Kamen kommt und auch ein elektrisches Longboard besitzt, wäre es bestimmt nett sich mal zu treffen. Mit mehreren zu fahren macht einfach mehr Spaß :-). Hinterlasst mir hier einfach eine Nachricht ###

Step 1: BOM - Excel-File

Picture of BOM - Excel-File

I made it simple for you :-).

Here is the complete BOM-Excel file for the weld free electric longboard incl. price list.

You just need to download the attached file and open it with Excel. (German)

Step 2: Fusion 360 Motor Bracket File

If you can't see the interactive 3D model above, its probably because you're not using a WebGL-enabled browser, or you're using the Instructables Mobile app)

I also upload a .f3d file for Fusion360 and a .step file for other CAD programs

Step 3: Prepare the Wood Plates

Picture of Prepare the Wood Plates

At first you have to buy two 120x60cm in lenght 4mm thick plywood. Then you cut it in four 120x30cm pieces

Step 4: Stick the Wood Plates Together

Picture of Stick the Wood Plates Together

Now you stick the four 40x120cm woodplates together. At first you have to make sure that you have enough PVA / wood glue. You need 400ml glue for all plates. Once you have checked that you have enough , you spread a glue layer on the first plate. Make sure that you use enough glue!

After you have spreaded all plates with glue, you have to press the plates together.

Attention when pressing:

You need to build a press form, which forms a concave longboard deck, because only the concave in the deck makes your longboard rigid and flexible at the same time! See at the pictures, how my press form looks like :-)

The deck have to stay at least one (better two or three) day in the form, until the glue is strong enough that it can hold the plates together.

Step 5: Remove the Plates From the Form

Picture of Remove the Plates From the Form

Here you can see, how a well glued longboard deck looks like, when it comes out of the form.

It is perfect, when you see some glue at the edges.

Step 6: Cut Out the Typical Longboard Design

Picture of Cut Out the Typical Longboard Design

For the perfect longboard form, I used some transparent baking paper. For the right size, please look at the pictures. Once you have marked your size on the deck, you can cut it out. For this step I used a jigsaw.

Step 7: Grind the Edges

Picture of Grind the Edges

To remove the sharp edges, I used an electric router. Now I have some very smooth edges. Additionally it is very recommed to sand the complete deck. Later it will give you better results at the painting. I used a 180 corning sand paper.

Step 8: Paint It!

Picture of Paint It!

At first, don't forget to sand your deck. This is highly recommend, because it will remove the tiny hair from the wood plates. Once sanded, you paint the deck black. Let it dry for at least one day. After that, you have to apply a thin layer of laquer. Let it also dry for one day. Then sand it again and apply a new layer of laquer. Repeat this step four times that you have 4 layers of laquer on both sides of your longboard deck

Step 9: Attach the Grip Tape

Picture of Attach the Grip Tape

After the laquer is dry enough, you can start to attach the griptape to the longboard deck.

You do that like this:

  1. Glue the griptape to the deck. Make sure that you have no air bubbles under the griptape.
  2. After that, prepare the edges of the deck. I used a file shaft for this step (See pictures)
  3. Then you can cut the unused griptape with a sharp knife.
  4. At last, you open the holes for the axis/battery box

Step 10: Attach the Axis to the Deck

Picture of Attach the Axis to the Deck

You simply have to screw the axis to the deck, by using the M5x30mm screws

Step 11: Make the Motor Bracket

Picture of Make the Motor Bracket

For this step is it highly recommend to download the attached PDF for the motor bracket. Or even better the CAD file at the top of my instruction :-)

I used a 15mm thick aluminium block for the axis bracket and a 5mm for the motormount.

Required tools:

  • Jigsaw with asawblade for alumnium
  • A drilling machine
  • some files in different sizes

For the work flow, please look at the pictures, drawings and the Fusion360 file.

Step 12: Connect the Motor Mount to the Axis

Picture of Connect the Motor Mount to the Axis

At first you have to grind the shaft from the axis that you are able to push the axis holder on the axis. Once completed, you have to screw the motorholder to the axis holder. For that step, I used three screws and three self-locking nuts.

Step 13: Connect the Gear to the Wheel

Picture of Connect the Gear to the Wheel

At first a big thanks to buZztiaan from Thingiverse for sharing his awesome 48 tooth longboard gear for flywheels!

For this step you need:

  • 1x Flywheel
  • 1x The 48 tooth gear for HTD5M belt from Thingiverse + retrainer
  • 6x M5 Hex nuts
  • 6x M5 washers
  • 6x M5x70mm screws

See pictures, how to assemble the gear with the wheel :-)

Step 14: Detailed Pictures From the Motor Mount

Picture of Detailed Pictures From the Motor Mount

Step 15: Build the Electronic Box

Picture of Build the Electronic Box

To protect your electronic against dirt, you should build a box, which you attach under the longboard

Required Parts:

  • 2x 250x70x18mm plywood
  • 1x 145x70x6mm plywood
  • 1x 95x170x1,5mm perforated metal
  • 290x290x2mm aluminium plates
  • Some small wood screws

What you make:

  • At first you cut the 18mm plywood in a 70° angel
  • Then you bend the perforated metal, that it has the same high as the 18mm plywood
  • After that you drill some holes inside the aluminium plate
  • Then you screw the parts together (see pictures)

Step 16: Splint Pin

Picture of Splint Pin

To guarantee that the box is to 100% closed when you drive, you need to make a splint pin. I bend them by myself out of some stainless steel. The safety Pin is also diy from an old wire.

Step 17: Detailed Pictures From the Box

Picture of Detailed Pictures From the Box

Step 18: How to Protect Your LIPOs Against Water, Dirt and Vibrations

Picture of How to Protect Your LIPOs Against Water, Dirt and Vibrations

I attached some foam inside and under the electronic box to protect the Lipos and the ESC against dirt and vibrations. I get my foam from some old packing material.

Step 19: 3D-Printed Wire Channel

Picture of 3D-Printed Wire Channel

This 3D-Printed wire channel is highly recommend for a professionel look.

I print it at a layer hight of 0.2mm out of black PLA

Step 20: Connect the Electronic

Picture of Connect the Electronic

Once you completed the box, you have to attach the electronic. For that I used the 9mm plywood inside the box. I drilled some holes, that I could connect the ESC and Receiver with Zipties.

You simply have to connect the ESC and Receiver like in every normal RC-Car.


baptar made it! (author)2016-12-25

Hi Vulcaman . I read yor post during 6 month before made it ! I studied every possibilities , every problems etc etc .... And here is the results! I used a littely more powerful motor . I firstly made the motormount that you made but I usined my own after .I changed the belt with an htd 225 3m (more larger ) I haded also some white leds all arround , with an other 3s 2200 mah lipo . An other tips I had ,is a little ventilator to refresh the esc. For everything , this electric skateboard costs me arround 250€ , my top speed is 40km/h and arround 5 km range . But as you says , the brake is really bad and it would nearly cost my lives ! be really carreful with this machine and dont underestimate the speed factor and your environenment ! But congratulations for this really complete topic ! merry christmas and happy new year to you ! and have a good ride .

KoenS1 (author)2016-11-17

nice build tutorial! I just started to make my own with very similar components (build log)
I will try to make the best quality board under 400 $

NathanM189 (author)2016-10-14

Any chance you could upload a english version of the supply list? I wouldn't want to get mixed up in the translations and buy the wrong parts.

Longboard1999 (author)2016-06-18

Does the esc have a breaking feature or do you have to use your foot to stop

Vulcaman (author)Longboard19992016-06-19

Yes, the esc has a breaking feature, but the brake is to strong. So I disabled the break and use my foot.

markyoe (author)Vulcaman2016-08-18

Did you have to get an ESC programming card to do that?

Vulcaman (author)markyoe2016-08-22

You don't need a programming card in general. You can programm the esc with your RC transmitter. Only for some advanced features an programming card is necessary. Take a look at ESC specifications :-)

MightyCoCo (author)2016-06-22

Nice project. About your ESC (never had one in my hands) - how did you connect the two Lipo packs to the ESC? Serial, parallel or does the ESC has connectors for two?

Vulcaman (author)MightyCoCo2016-06-22

You connect the two Lipos in parallel, because you want to increase the capacity not the voltage. I simply use two XT60 Connectors and solder them in parallel. (See picture)

spotsizzle (author)2016-05-09

i have a question that i feel quite urgently needs to be answered, cause if its not i wont be able to build this. But is it possible to skip the 'longboard construction' steps andjust apply the other steps to an already owned board?

spotsizzle (author)spotsizzle2016-05-09

also, how is it controlled?

owatson (author)spotsizzle2016-06-08

transmitter and receiver for an RC car

Um yes obviously....

NoamB2 (author)2016-05-08

how do i get the 48 tooth longboard gear flywheels? and motoe gear and belt?

can i find it on ebay?

EsaE (author)2016-05-08

Really gorgeous and professional-looking! The box just seems 2x too tall for my taste :( I know it has plenty clearance...but :(

Would be nice if you used Google Docs for the parts list :)

Keep on rollin'!

harold_loop (author)2016-05-08

Looks very professional!

I was just wondering if the motor bracket doesn't come loose from the truck since it only relies on friction?

ahmet_024102 (author)2016-05-01

battery where?

Logan302 (author)2016-04-27

Does the box ever scrape on the ground. Thanks for sharing.

Vulcaman (author)Logan3022016-04-29

The Box didn't scrape the ground, you have 7cm space between ground and deck.

Logan302 (author)Vulcaman2016-04-29

Ok, I was just curious to know.

DEDELIE (author)2016-04-29

Bravo Vulcaman !

Bel instructables très bien documenté. C'est un exemple pour tout le monde.


Solateska (author)2016-04-27

Would have loved to watch it in action.

desidude52 (author)2016-04-27

Great Instructable, very clear and detailed! Also thank you for the excel sheet of parts. I have been shopping for motor/esc/battery for an electric bike project and this helps a lot. Thanks.

baptar (author)2016-04-26

Nice project , I think taht I wil make mine nearly ;) But does it works with the two batteries or one by one ?

Vulcaman (author)baptar2016-04-27

Yes, it works with two batteries. You have to switch them in parallel

baptar (author)Vulcaman2016-04-27

Great , so there is a really enormous power ( 6 S 10 000 Mah ) ? May we have a vidéo of this longboard working please ?

supernoodle2014 (author)2016-04-27

Good instructable. What is the cost of this?

Vulcaman (author)supernoodle20142016-04-27

350-400€ take a look at my excel-file

ChrisM90 (author)2016-04-26

What kind of transmitter are you using? have you noticed it pulling to one side at all given that only one wheel is powered? Can the powered wheel spin freely to allow you to kick and assist the board in movement?

Vulcaman (author)ChrisM902016-04-27


I used this transmitter:

I didn't noticed that my board is pulling me to one side. One motor works well for me.

Yes, the wheels can spin freely. It's no problem to kick the board when you are already in movement.

jan2000 (author)2016-04-27

What ESC and motor are you using??

DanielB228 (author)2016-04-26

Hey Great Project, i'd would love one of those =) ! How did you cut the aluminium and bend it so perfectly? Edges look very smooth... i have never been able to make good cases out of aluminium because i was not able to cut accurately... oO

Vulcaman (author)DanielB2282016-04-27

Thanks :-)

First I marked the size on a aluminium plate, then I cut it out with a jigsaw. After that I grind the edges and bend the plate in a vice. It isn't that hard :-)

jprada (author)2016-04-26

interesting project.

You can tell me that motor use?

that calculations made for determining how power and speed?

Vulcaman (author)jprada2016-04-27

I used this motor from Hobbyking:

For calculation, you can use this website:

HHB13 (author)2016-04-26

Awesome job!!!! I voted BTW

Mylomine (author)2016-04-26

very awesome project. Thank you. I was wondering if you might be able to post your Excel sheet in English?

Carlos Russo (author)2016-04-26

great!!!!! How much weight can be applied?

Vulcaman (author)Carlos Russo2016-04-26

I don't know, but 100kg is no problem.

Vulcaman (author)Carlos Russo2016-04-26

I don't know, but 100kg is no problem.

rimshot (author)2016-04-26

Very nice instructable. The same approach could be used for a ready-made longboard or a solid (adult size) scooter. Voted!

tahitianrider (author)2016-04-25

Excellent instructable thanks !! :)
I built a very similar electric longboard with the same motor, can you tell me how you mounted the motor pulley to the motor shaft exactly ? I use the propeller mount right now but it is not very convenient... Or do you have a link to your motor pulley ?

Vulcaman (author)tahitianrider2016-04-25

Thanks! :-)

I bought my pully from here:

Then I grind the motorshaft and cut two M3 threads inside the pulley. After that I fixed the screws with loctite.

I attached some pictures, I hope this will help you :-)

tahitianrider (author)Vulcaman2016-04-25

Oh okay thanks a lot for the pictures ! :) It is clear for me now I'll try to do the same way :)

Confounded Machine (author)2016-04-23

Very nice, I like the application of 3D printing in this guide. Great work!

manuelmasc (author)2016-04-23

it looks so cool!! very good job!

can you make a video? :)

P.S. voted!!

Akinventor (author)2016-04-23

Looks great! Voted!

erik hansen (author)2016-04-23

Do you have a video of it working?

Vulcaman (author)erik hansen2016-04-23

Sry I have no video

About This Instructable




Bio: I am an 19 years old guy from Germany who love to make things. Later I want to become an Electrical Engineer :-)
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