A kick-bike is sometimes called an adult scooter. It usually has bicycle wheels, a kickboard-like platform to stand on and bicycle handlebars. Kick-bikes are low to the ground and quite stable to ride.

The three kick-bikes described in this IBL are my first attempts to find the optimum design for me. I have learned quite a bit about what I want in my "ultimate kick-bike" which has not yet been built.

This is a welding project. I have a MIG wirefeed welder and use .025 wire for all my bike projects.

Please remember to ride responsibly. Use a helmet, add reflectors before you go out into the world and be sure you have lights if you ride at dusk.

Step 1: Tools and Parts


MIG welder
Cut off saw
Bench grinder

Harvest these from scrap bikes:

Front forks
Top and bottom tubes
Rear forks? (Now I use all front forks)
Hey Fred, just say your post and I think that this is great. I have been trying to get people interested in kickbiking for quite a while. I built my first one about 5 years ago and I still use it almost every day, except winter months, on the college campus where I work. I used a very simple design and have had to repair it a couple of times but it is fun and quick. I have another started but no chance to finish it yet. <br>I found that the best height for my platform was 4&quot; which gives enough clearance and it is not so hard for kicking. I have a picture on the following site and it is the red one shown on page 4. Good luck with your next project and keep posting. <br>http://www.atomiczombie.com/gallery/funrides4.html <br> <br>Doug
I like the first one the most although they all look very sturdy and comfortable. Very nice work!!!
I love this project great job!
I made one of these a few years ago in school. <br>We made them using 45 mm tube as our frame, and we made out own rear forks. <br>The advantage of using custom bent tube is that you can get the correct geometry, and you don't have to worry about the restrictions of using existing bikes.
For Ver. 2 and 3, the angle of the steering looks really uncomfortable. I assume it was a limitation of having to use the existing bike tubes? I guess I'd suggest extending the connecting tube to make the fork more vertical.
Agreed - the follow geometry is all cocked up because the angle of the head tube. <br> <br>Google for bicycle fork trail or bicycle fork rake <br>or read this one <br>http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_and_motorcycle_geometry <br> <br>I wish I could invest the time in learning to weld.
I suggest finding a local community college, High school with a &quot;shop class&quot; still, or a hackerspace/techshop and take a class. It would be the most efficient way to learn and avoid developing bad habits. <br>It would also let you build connections and give you access to some equipment. <br> <br>My suggestion would be to use a larger fork and a smaller wheel, though this would keep you from using the front brake. (unless it were disk... in which case I doubt you'd be hacking it)
They are called Amish Harlys here in Lancaster county PA.
Double points for sharing your protos...I always learn more from my 'failures'
Nice to see the prototyping and the break-down of good &amp; bad points - I wish I had the time and materials to do the same.<br> <br> One question - what does the 'hash' sign mean, weight-wise? I've a feeling it means pounds, but a part of me is refusing to believe that.<br> <br> Something to consider, if you do&nbsp;go for&nbsp;an electric assist motor, is to try using 24&quot; front forks back there. If you do, you can 'sprag' them apart enough to accept the wider hub. Admittedly, it'll make your kick-bike slightly longer, but will help preserve the aesthetics as well as reducing weight.
Hi karlpinturr, <br> <br>Thanks for the suggestion on the 24&quot; front fork for the rear. I like the idea of keeping it light. The motor I am considering is not a hub mount so I would have to add some sort of support frame which adds back some weight. I'll have to &quot;weigh &quot;the option of using a rear fork. <br> <br>Yes. I meant the hash to be a pound sign. Not a good use in a forum like this. I will go edit those out right now. <br> <br>Fred
You're welcome - I look forward to versions 4 (without) and 5 (WITH the motor).<br> <br> I wonder if your motor could sit in front of the rear wheel, ON the frame, at all?<br> <br> Depends on your battery (-pack), I suppose. If you're using a traditional SLA battery, then IT needs to be low, so your motor would have to go higher - on a support frame.<br> <br> IF, however, you have access to smaller, slimmer and lighter Lithium-Polymer batteries, they could go either side of (or<em> inside</em>?) your bottom tube, allowing the motor to mount onto the frame, and keeping the weight both down AND low for stability.<br> <br> Cornering might be a little risky if your batteries are either side of your bottom tube though, so you might need to raise your platform a little.
Now there is an interesting thought. Put the battery cells in the platform tubes. They would be low to keep the center-of-gravity low and they would be protected. Nice idea...

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