The three kick-bikes described in this IBL are my first attempts to find the optimum design for me. I have learned quite a bit about what I want in my "ultimate kick-bike" which has not yet been built.
This is a welding project. I have a MIG wirefeed welder and use .025 wire for all my bike projects.
Please remember to ride responsibly. Use a helmet, add reflectors before you go out into the world and be sure you have lights if you ride at dusk.
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Signing UpStep 1: Tools and Parts
MIG welder
Cut off saw
Bench grinder
Clamps
Etc.
Harvest these from scrap bikes:
Front forks
Top and bottom tubes
Rear forks? (Now I use all front forks)










































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I found that the best height for my platform was 4" which gives enough clearance and it is not so hard for kicking. I have a picture on the following site and it is the red one shown on page 4. Good luck with your next project and keep posting.
http://www.atomiczombie.com/gallery/funrides4.html
Doug
We made them using 45 mm tube as our frame, and we made out own rear forks.
The advantage of using custom bent tube is that you can get the correct geometry, and you don't have to worry about the restrictions of using existing bikes.
Google for bicycle fork trail or bicycle fork rake
or read this one
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_and_motorcycle_geometry
I wish I could invest the time in learning to weld.
It would also let you build connections and give you access to some equipment.
My suggestion would be to use a larger fork and a smaller wheel, though this would keep you from using the front brake. (unless it were disk... in which case I doubt you'd be hacking it)
One question - what does the 'hash' sign mean, weight-wise? I've a feeling it means pounds, but a part of me is refusing to believe that.
Something to consider, if you do go for an electric assist motor, is to try using 24" front forks back there. If you do, you can 'sprag' them apart enough to accept the wider hub. Admittedly, it'll make your kick-bike slightly longer, but will help preserve the aesthetics as well as reducing weight.
Thanks for the suggestion on the 24" front fork for the rear. I like the idea of keeping it light. The motor I am considering is not a hub mount so I would have to add some sort of support frame which adds back some weight. I'll have to "weigh "the option of using a rear fork.
Yes. I meant the hash to be a pound sign. Not a good use in a forum like this. I will go edit those out right now.
Fred
I wonder if your motor could sit in front of the rear wheel, ON the frame, at all?
Depends on your battery (-pack), I suppose. If you're using a traditional SLA battery, then IT needs to be low, so your motor would have to go higher - on a support frame.
IF, however, you have access to smaller, slimmer and lighter Lithium-Polymer batteries, they could go either side of (or inside?) your bottom tube, allowing the motor to mount onto the frame, and keeping the weight both down AND low for stability.
Cornering might be a little risky if your batteries are either side of your bottom tube though, so you might need to raise your platform a little.