Introduction: White Oak Faced Powerful Passive Speakers

This is my third speaker project and completely different to the previous ones! This time I am going to make some big, powerful and nice looking monitors to go in my audio room!

I have some other projects here: www.makealittlemore.co.uk please do check them out!

my etsy: ETSY SHOP I do custom orders here too. And sell some pf my projects!

I took on this challenge to make some new speakers and although it is a fairly simple build to do with hand tools, I love any excuse to use my CNC router. sorry...

Step 1: Parts

MDF - Sourced form most home improvement stores

speakers - available form amazon. The ones I used were Bass Face.

Oak - I have a local supplier of exotic hardwoods and I intend to use some more exotic hardwoods in the future!

Step 2: CAD

As always I jumped into Fusion 360 and quickly and easily came up with a design that I liked and used the available material I had very well.

I made some key design choices with these particular speakers as I wanted to try to use a little of my precious White Oak as possible so I decided to make the front a solid piece of oak and I used MDF for the rest of the enclosure. This wouldn't matter though as the box part would be painted white.

Step 3: CAM

I used Fusion 360's built in CAM to generate some g code for all the parts I needed and then I was ready to cut them out on the CNC router.

Having CAM built into Fusion 360 allows a really nice and seamless workflow, don't have to use any other programs to process the files.

Step 4: CNC

Then just load up some sheet material and let the machine do the hard work!

Step 5: Cleanup

Once the parts are taken from the machine, the tabs that hold the parts in place need to be cut away with a hacksaw blade and then I used a small block plane to trip down the excess.

Some course sand paper on a flat board can also help this process.

Step 6: Glue Up

I then glued up the main mdf boxes of the speakers taking extra care to make sure everything was straight.

I used a band clamp and masking tape as I find this the easiest way to glue up box shaped things.

Step 7: Cleanup

After the glue up, I used the sandpaper on a board to cleanup the edges and get everything flush and smooth prior to primer painting

Step 8: Preparing Speaker Fronts

I glued the speakers in place on the front panel with some epoxy, I could't find the right screws so this will do until I get around to getting the right screws and doing this properly!

Step 9: Gluing the Face On

The speaker face could then be glued on and I took the time to mask off the mdf to stop it getting covered in glue prior to painting.

Step 10: Painting

The whole thing could then be painted white, except the oak face. I used the bass ports covered in newspaper to seal up the holes in the back of the speakers.

Step 11: Chamfering

I actually did this before painting of course but I ran all the edges of the speaker over my router table to give a nice faceted look to the speakers.

Step 12: Wiring

Next I wired up the speakers.

Step 13: Extra Parts

I wired up the speaker terminals to the back and installed the bass ports into the frame of the speakers. I also added tome rubber feet to the speakers at this point.

Step 14: Varnishing

I masked off the painted mdf from the oak and then varnished the oak fronts.

Step 15: Done!

Finished!!

The copper pipe stand is from an old project but I intend to use it in an upcoming project so stay tuned for that!!!

Step 16:

Comments

author
Qqmber2 (author)2017-09-01

This is the way how NOT to design speakers.

It will have non linear frequency response (with two tweeters with distance like this). May be switch off one of them will help. Please try - it will sounds better.

author
Nickolae (author)Qqmber22017-09-01

This is a very good point and did not even think about it! Have disconnected one of the tweeters now but it hasn't made that much difference as the quality of the drivers in general is pretty poor! These speakers were build for Volume and they hold the sound together fairly well at high volumes.

author
tcs79 (author)2017-08-24

Excelent job. Did you calculate the the inner volume based on the speakers and the cone? It will affect directly the quality of sound.

author
Nickolae (author)tcs792017-08-25

I winged it haha

author
tcs79 (author)Nickolae2017-08-26

Excellent!!!! If it worked good job!!!

author
mjenkins1 (author)2017-08-25

They said it couldn't be done. But you are the first to build speakers that are both "powerful" and "passive." Nice going.

author
Leathaldose (author)2017-08-25

Why did you wire them in series?

author
Nickolae (author)Leathaldose2017-08-25

Each driver is 4ohms and I wanted 8ohm speakers

author
Leathaldose (author)Nickolae2017-08-25

Gotcha, that works.

author
wlcd (author)2017-08-24

Really nice ! How did you calculate the inner volume ?

author
Nickolae (author)wlcd2017-08-24

They aren't sealed so the volume wasn't too important but I did some calculations on the back of an envelope for the volume and bass port...but I pretty much winged it and got lucky haha

author
Leathaldose (author)Nickolae2017-08-25

sealed or vented, you still need to calculate for volume and port length or the sound wont be correct.

author
Nickolae (author)Leathaldose2017-08-25

Yeh this is true, I completely winged it to be honest

author
Nickolae (author)wlcd2017-08-24

Like a true engineer, I winged it with a few sums and I got lucky because they sound pretty good!

author
wlcd (author)Nickolae2017-08-24

xD

author
Seymour Heine (author)2017-08-24

Did you not use any damping material inside the cabinet?

author
Nickolae (author)Seymour Heine2017-08-25

Yes, didn't picture it but I used the stuffing from an old polyester pillow

author
COALLESSA (author)2017-08-24

Very nice but how do you change one of the speakers if you need to?

author
Nickolae (author)COALLESSA2017-08-25

With difficulty haha

author
ArthurJ5 (author)2017-08-24

Beautiful! I like how the speaker cone matches the finish. I gotta get one of those CNC routers! Now for some constructive criticism, you will get a lot of cancelation interference across the midrange and high frequencies with that design. A good thing to do is cross over one speaker driver at relatively low frequency (300 hz). Doing that will give you more bass and remove the interference caused by using two full range drivers next to each other. Of course you lose volume in the mid and high frequencies. I peeked at your other design and because of its omnidirectional design shouldn't have the cancellation issues this one has. I understand everyone is building to a price point but if you are going to make such beautiful loudspeakers you should really save-up your spare change and buy some good drivers. Tang Band makes some that are not expensive and perform really well.

author
Nickolae (author)ArthurJ52017-08-24

Thanks for this, my next build is going to be a lot more audio file focused, gonna do some proper research and spend a bit of money on them!

author
Nickolae (author)ArthurJ52017-08-24

I'm gonna bare this in mind for my next build!!

author
pgs070947 (author)2017-08-24

Well done, lots of skills here.

Just a suggestion, instead of varnish, try Osmo Polyx. Gives a lovely finish, water resistant etc. Expensive, but I wouldn't use anything else now.

author
Nickolae (author)pgs0709472017-08-24

Thanks! I'll give it a try, think I used osmo on my kitchen work tops?!

author
flyingace (author)2017-08-24

I couldn't find the speakers you referenced on Amazon. Could you please provide a link?

author
pmck (author)flyingace2017-08-24

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bass-Face-SPL5-1-Coaxial-Speakers/dp/B008N53N26/ref=pd_bxgy_107_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=DY48VCXPVC1KNHYY7VM8

author
timdekker1825 (author)2017-08-24

Great job, I like it a lot!

author
Eric Brouwer (author)2017-08-24

Excellent job. Looks awesome!

About This Instructable

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Bio: Designer, Maker, CNC Enthusiast, Drone Maker
More by Nickolae:Making Solid Padauk and Maple Bookshelf SpeakersWhite Oak Faced Powerful Passive SpeakersFastest Fidget Spinner! With RIPCORD
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