video Why WD40 Should Never Be Used on Your Bike Chain
An informative explanation for why WD40 should never be used as a bicycle chain lubricant.
Source: Why WD40 is Bad for Your Bike Chain (More videos at BicycleTutor.com)
Source: Why WD40 is Bad for Your Bike Chain (More videos at BicycleTutor.com)


















Or something that is at least correct – as I have been (and still) using WD40 to clean bicycle and motorcycle chains for over 3 decades.
Why? It’s cheap – not as cheap as kerosene but not everyone has a need to have kero on hand yet nearly everyone has a can of WD40. I have seen a 2-pack of 16oz of WD40 for about $12 recently. Combined with a nylon-bristle quickie brush (the only chain-cleaning tool you really need combined with a piece of scrap cardboard and an old rag) the chain gets extremely clean, all the old lube and any dirt that have attached are whisked away.
One thing that WD40 does very well is revitalize old rusted chains – many old bikes that have been forgotten the first thing to go is usually the chain. WD40 and the nylon brush (or steel brush for quick work on non o-ring chains) can usually bring it back in service with a bit of elbow grease depending on the level of neglect :)
I stopped buying expensive performance cleaners and lubes years ago and stick to good old WD40+nylon quickie brush, and on both bike and moto I find best results with white-lithium wet lube and PTFE dry lube. There are products that do last longer however it just means they get dirtier since they are on for a longer period of time, and dirt in your lube is just as bad as no lube at all IMHO.
Chains and dirt are inherently incompatible. Lots of small parts and spaces which can hold abrasive dirt and rust particles.
WD-40 when dry leaves a protective film and repels water. does not leave a sticky surface which attracts dirt, sand, rust particles, and perhaps things like salt in marine areas.
Oil, Synthetic oil, etc is inherently sticky and traps abrasives on the chains are available with sealed bushings which do not require oil.
Materials with different coefficients of friction (aluminum, steel, carbon steel etc.) do not necessarily require more lube, though any kind of oil (light weight) which leaves a film will protect.
Oil works by reducing friction (shear of molecules absorbs friction between two metal parts. Trouble is that oil even if not sticky is a liquid (albeit a very high viscosity liquid) which can suspend contamination in the form of moisture, abrasives, etc.
That said, a bike chain has a somewhat limited life. WD-40 is in my opinion an amazing substance.
Though perhaps not as effective as certain penetrating oils (CRC or Wagner exhaust solvent) WD-40 does provide many unique benefits for something with such a long history.
It can even be used as an emergency starting fluid, or sprayed into a carburetor on a small engine to remove water.
If you are worried about leaving it on the chain, after using to remove corrosion, soak the chain in light oil in a small container of very light machine oil (like straight 10w motor oil) overnight or even for a few days.
This will allow the oil to soak into the small spaces that the WD-40 has "exposed" to the world once again which were covered by rust.
In any case, WD-40 is a good general cleaner and pretty good lube. There are probably better solutions, but by itself is ok, better to use in conjunction with oil.
Jim