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I don't know exactly what happens but in California it's illegal to do this... i think... but it like drugs up the fish and makes them easier to catch and since this is the only "drug" they have ever had they just keep coming back for more
It can, but the stuff you buy from the market and put in the pan will most likely be lost as the chain is driven through the transmission. There are a couple of commercial lubricants that are nothing but veggie oils. You might try Crisco some time ...
I like WD-40. I learned my lesson once with it though. I had a sticking turn signal lever on a car, so dumb me sprays WD-40 into the steering wheel assembly. Oh, it got rid of the sticking; but about 40 miles later a light smoke starts emitting from this area! Luckily it stopped a minute later and did no harm. I sure did get the looks from other drivers though!
Title change: “Use WD40 on your bike chain to clean, not lube”
Or something that is at least correct – as I have been (and still) using WD40 to clean bicycle and motorcycle chains for over 3 decades.
Why? It’s cheap – not as cheap as kerosene but not everyone has a need to have kero on hand yet nearly everyone has a can of WD40. I have seen a 2-pack of 16oz of WD40 for about $12 recently. Combined with a nylon-bristle quickie brush (the only chain-cleaning tool you really need combined with a piece of scrap cardboard and an old rag) the chain gets extremely clean, all the old lube and any dirt that have attached are whisked away.
One thing that WD40 does very well is revitalize old rusted chains – many old bikes that have been forgotten the first thing to go is usually the chain. WD40 and the nylon brush (or steel brush for quick work on non o-ring chains) can usually bring it back in service with a bit of elbow grease depending on the level of neglect :)
I stopped buying expensive performance cleaners and lubes years ago and stick to good old WD40+nylon quickie brush, and on both bike and moto I find best results with white-lithium wet lube and PTFE dry lube. There are products that do last longer however it just means they get dirtier since they are on for a longer period of time, and dirt in your lube is just as bad as no lube at all IMHO.
While there are certainly much better options than WD-40 for chain lube, you are wrong on just about everything you suggest. Does that mean that no lube is as good as WD-40? You must be kidding. You should know what you are talking about before directing people.
Dude.. WD-40 is NOT a long lasting lubricant. It's entire purpose is to dislpace water, and keep it out. Water Displacement formula on the 40th attempt. Hmmmm wonder what I should name a product like that? WD-40? This mechanic is spot on and knowledgable. While this thin fluid does have a slight tendancy to decrease friction, this effect is very short lived as it is actually a degreaser. The end result of using WD-40 on your chain will be, Metal on Metal friction ruining yoru chain. Period.
Actually, its very difficult to get a bike chain that doesn't have *any* lube on it. Buy a new one some time. When you take it out of the box notice all that lube all over it? That lube stays on the chain even when you can't see or feel it any longer. WD-40 has solvents in it that will thin the factory lubes used on drive train elements. Its a sure way to get ride of the water, dirt, and unfortunately lube. It does make a very cheap stripping compound, but dry the chain completely and replace the lube.
Chains and dirt are inherently incompatible. Lots of small parts and spaces which can hold abrasive dirt and rust particles.
WD-40 when dry leaves a protective film and repels water. does not leave a sticky surface which attracts dirt, sand, rust particles, and perhaps things like salt in marine areas.
Oil, Synthetic oil, etc is inherently sticky and traps abrasives on the chains are available with sealed bushings which do not require oil.
Materials with different coefficients of friction (aluminum, steel, carbon steel etc.) do not necessarily require more lube, though any kind of oil (light weight) which leaves a film will protect.
Oil works by reducing friction (shear of molecules absorbs friction between two metal parts. Trouble is that oil even if not sticky is a liquid (albeit a very high viscosity liquid) which can suspend contamination in the form of moisture, abrasives, etc.
That said, a bike chain has a somewhat limited life. WD-40 is in my opinion an amazing substance.
Though perhaps not as effective as certain penetrating oils (CRC or Wagner exhaust solvent) WD-40 does provide many unique benefits for something with such a long history.
It can even be used as an emergency starting fluid, or sprayed into a carburetor on a small engine to remove water.
If you are worried about leaving it on the chain, after using to remove corrosion, soak the chain in light oil in a small container of very light machine oil (like straight 10w motor oil) overnight or even for a few days.
This will allow the oil to soak into the small spaces that the WD-40 has "exposed" to the world once again which were covered by rust.
In any case, WD-40 is a good general cleaner and pretty good lube. There are probably better solutions, but by itself is ok, better to use in conjunction with oil.
I stand corrected sir. I was told many many years ago that WD-40 was yet another innovation of Hughes aircraft during WWII for eliminating Water in Aircraft ignition systems. Curtis wasn't Hughes, so I guess the source was confused. 53 was more during Korea than WWII. Thanks for Clarifying. I will use this info from now on. Jim
When i mas shopping for my latest bike (that's been with me through 3 sets of tires now!) I bought this up with the guy in the bike shop, and he threw in a bottle of the cheapest bike grease for free. It really does work well, and I've bought bottles of it since (cause it's, what, £5?), but i can't help but wonder if it seems effective just because it sticks around for longer. A freind of mine used to swear by olive oil as a lubricant for her bike, and as far as I know she's never had any problems with her chains...
as its abbreviated name implies, (Water Displacement) WD-40 repels water, and should only be used as an improvised flame thrower when fighting zombies.
There are advantages and disadvantages of wd40 , it works ok... so shut up and start riding your bike instead of deciding how to lubricate the chain. nnuf said, and wear a helmet :).
Sorry to be a spoilfun, but that tutorial doesn't tell me anything that the words "don't use WD40 on your bicycle chain" wouldn't have told me. So what's the point in making a video for that.
Or something that is at least correct – as I have been (and still) using WD40 to clean bicycle and motorcycle chains for over 3 decades.
Why? It’s cheap – not as cheap as kerosene but not everyone has a need to have kero on hand yet nearly everyone has a can of WD40. I have seen a 2-pack of 16oz of WD40 for about $12 recently. Combined with a nylon-bristle quickie brush (the only chain-cleaning tool you really need combined with a piece of scrap cardboard and an old rag) the chain gets extremely clean, all the old lube and any dirt that have attached are whisked away.
One thing that WD40 does very well is revitalize old rusted chains – many old bikes that have been forgotten the first thing to go is usually the chain. WD40 and the nylon brush (or steel brush for quick work on non o-ring chains) can usually bring it back in service with a bit of elbow grease depending on the level of neglect :)
I stopped buying expensive performance cleaners and lubes years ago and stick to good old WD40+nylon quickie brush, and on both bike and moto I find best results with white-lithium wet lube and PTFE dry lube. There are products that do last longer however it just means they get dirtier since they are on for a longer period of time, and dirt in your lube is just as bad as no lube at all IMHO.
Chains and dirt are inherently incompatible. Lots of small parts and spaces which can hold abrasive dirt and rust particles.
WD-40 when dry leaves a protective film and repels water. does not leave a sticky surface which attracts dirt, sand, rust particles, and perhaps things like salt in marine areas.
Oil, Synthetic oil, etc is inherently sticky and traps abrasives on the chains are available with sealed bushings which do not require oil.
Materials with different coefficients of friction (aluminum, steel, carbon steel etc.) do not necessarily require more lube, though any kind of oil (light weight) which leaves a film will protect.
Oil works by reducing friction (shear of molecules absorbs friction between two metal parts. Trouble is that oil even if not sticky is a liquid (albeit a very high viscosity liquid) which can suspend contamination in the form of moisture, abrasives, etc.
That said, a bike chain has a somewhat limited life. WD-40 is in my opinion an amazing substance.
Though perhaps not as effective as certain penetrating oils (CRC or Wagner exhaust solvent) WD-40 does provide many unique benefits for something with such a long history.
It can even be used as an emergency starting fluid, or sprayed into a carburetor on a small engine to remove water.
If you are worried about leaving it on the chain, after using to remove corrosion, soak the chain in light oil in a small container of very light machine oil (like straight 10w motor oil) overnight or even for a few days.
This will allow the oil to soak into the small spaces that the WD-40 has "exposed" to the world once again which were covered by rust.
In any case, WD-40 is a good general cleaner and pretty good lube. There are probably better solutions, but by itself is ok, better to use in conjunction with oil.
Jim