Water once a week in summer and less during the rest of the year!
"The wicking worm bed is a highly productive growing system which not only produces more food from limited water, but also recycles waste organic material to provide plant nutrient and capture carbon. The essence is to form an underground reservoir of water or pond contained by a waterproof container or liner below the surface of the soil. Plants are productive because they have a continuous supply of water and nutrients." Colin Austin
Water doesn't evaporate in the bottom of the wicking bed it 'wicks' up to the roots, and, the top soil will stay soft, under the mulch. Now, we'll only need to water once a week in summer, and less during the rest of the year.
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We removed the soil from our existing 5x3 meter garden bed and then leveled and terraced the ground for the two new beds, which must be completely level for even water distribution. We put a layer of soft-sifted soil on the bottom for cushioning, and created a waterproof bed for the plastic sheeting (make sure no sharp objects can cut into the plastic sheeting).









































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if a ping-pong ball fits into your pvc pipe you can then have a visual indicator of the internal water level by how much of the dowel sticks out
Use steel drums as oven, the bamboo inside of coarse. Close the steel and put under fire letting out a little steam. Watch until the bamboo turns to charcoal.
When bamboo turns charcoal put in bags (or not) and inside water. Works something like activated charcoal. Replace the bags from time to time. Other charcoal type makes the same job. Bamboo charcoal is better.
The old charcoal can be used as powder to make compost.
If you've there a plant named Eichhornia crassipes, put it in your tank. Well, it needs sun, but makes a net on water, covering all area. Its roots take all hard chemicals and clean water too.
See it: long roots=clean water, short roots =dirty water.
Eichhornia crassipes here:
http://www.ecy.wa.gov/programs/wq/plants/weeds/aqua010.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_hyacinth
This plant may be used to feed cattle, sheep, as hay.
The wood frame is half lapped 2x4s.
The way I have my sifter rigged it easily dumps off to the side. When the pile gets too large I shovel it out of the way I guess in the general direction of another rotting pile.
How my sifter is rigged:
A piece of light gauge coated steel cable (got mine from around a defunct pool cover) thrown over round top support bar run to hooks into each end corner. Hooks threaded into sides of sifter frame, pointing down. Set sifter up on 2x4 blocking on wheelbarrow over where you park it then I use a simple knot in the wire to the corner hooks.
Knot looks like this:
http://www.finehomebuilding.com/CMS/uploadedimages/Images/Homebuilding/Departments/021200bs104-01_xlg.jpg
My question is how do you get the water to wick up from the water resevoir to your soil?
The smaller boxes I have made use a pond basket filled with soil, and rest in the water resevoir. I suppose a few of those would work in your type boxes. But, wondered what your solution was. Or, does it wick up naturally from evaproation?
This instructable has the advantage of scale and more reusability, but I see no way to clean the water part, which could become a problem over time. In smaller scale boxes, they can be made to be taken apart for cleaning, but not on this scale.
Next year there WILL be a Wicking Box in the yard for sure.
On the water level / floatie thing, I think that nillo's suggestion is great and will be incorporated into my design.
Thanks for sharing!
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The comprehensive level of coverage and easy access to information on so many issues of interest is very impressive. You are welcome to use my report if you wish. The full report is on a single page on my website, here: http://www.maireid.com/wickingbeds.html
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