The Wii IR camera is a beautiful thing. It has an integrated processor which outputs the X and Y positions and size of the 4 brightest IR points that is sees. This can be very useful for tracking in robotics or human interfaces. Enjoy!
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Signing UpStep 1: Extract the Wii IR camera
You'll need to rip apart the case. It has some crazy three pronged screws. I didn't want to completely trash the case so I made a small tool to take it apart.
Now you need to desolder the 8 pins and the 2 struts holding the camera on the board. I used some desoldering braid. It wicks the solder away and makes it easy to get the camera out. Be careful, don't break the camera!
How to use desoldering braid: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AcbezX8TrOU
You might want to keep the rest of the parts. You might be able to scrap other parts. Also, If you decide later to use the Wiimote again, you could always put the camera back in.











































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i have one question though,,how is the IR camera calibrated?or what is the x,y reference?the origin (0,0) point
Thanks again,
Aws
Who know something about this? It has the same interface or it's completely different?
http://rocketbrandstudios.com/store/pcb-s-and-boards
He's even got some video and code examples for using it in a followme setup on a bot.
I'm not sure if you would still need to run it through a converter circuit to use it with a 5v board like the arduino but it looks to be running fine interfacing to an arduino nano in the video
Either way it makes for a much neater little package than unsoldering and proto boarding your own :-)
http://www.varesano.net/blog/fabio/how-disable-internal-arduino-atmega-pullups-sda-and-scl-i2c-bus
No converter necessary.
Also, would you be able to make a list of recommended digikey parts for the standard parts? I'm not quite familiar with the logic gates and don't know which to pick. I'm also not sure about the crystal either.
I used the 74AC04 inverter chip. Pin 1 is not Vcc. It is weird like that. here is the data sheet:
www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheet/nationalsemiconductor/DS009913.PDF
Pin 7 is ground and Pin 14 is Vcc. The gates are all the same, use any two.
As far as digikey is concerned. You'll probably want a 14 pin DIP package. We are running the chip at 3.3V, so we need to check that it'll work with that, but it looks like they all do. Otherwise, you'll want to buy something that has a minimum quantity of 1 and is available. I see 4 options with that, they are all good, buy the cheapest. Get a few (they are cheap) in case you blow one out.
The crystal is easy too. Filter with 'through hole' and 25 Mhz. After that you'll get a bunch. I forget which one I got, but they are pretty much all the same. We are not too concerned with the stability and tolerance. Sometimes I like to get a few different ones in case. It is cheaper to buy a few than to ship stuff again.
The caps can be annoying to buy because there are a million of them. Again, get a through hole with the right capacitance. We are not dealing with high voltage, so they will all work. Just find the cheapest then. Maybe get a few different ones if you are not sure. That is what I do.
Just get the cheapest 1/4 watt 1.0 Mohm resistor.
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/8745
It has the same purpose though, which is to convert voltages.
Forgive my knowledge about this, since I am just a beginner as a hobbyist.
Thanks a lot buddy! :)
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/8745
same as this?
http://i52.tinypic.com/2niprtz.png
I am trying to work your on your project and I followed all the circuits,
except for the voltage converter shield. It seems that the i2c scanner:
http://todbot.com/blog/2009/11/29/i2cscanner-pde-arduino-as-i2c-bus-scanner/
cannot detect the i2c device, which is the pixart camera.
I would really appreciate if you can help me on this. Thanks again. :)
Do you know how to change the pins that the camera uses on the arduino? I think it defaults to 6 and 5, but I'd like to change these and can't figure out where they are set...
I do animatronics as a hobby and one of the 'holy grails' is real time Lip Syncing where the mask will move it's lips in time with yours.
If one thinks of the lips as a flexible circle with points every 90 degree's then it's easy to put reflective points on the lips at that location/ Then it's easy to work out how open, cloded, or wide the mouth is and du0plicate it on the puppet.
Using an industrual face mask (for dusting) you can make a fully self contain system complete with camera and IR 'spotlight' that will protect the eyes and provice a dark environment.
Take Care
Marcwolf
the wiimote its just too big, any sugestion?
A way to power it by usb would came in handy too.
thanks
Also, thanks for the cool instructible - that servo is incredibly responsive!
I do not know where to find the camera on it's own. As far as I know this is the company that makes it,
http://www.pixart.com.tw/about.asp
If you find them I'd really like to know where you can get them alone.
Very flexible, I like.
You can take this idea further. If I know the time of day and my position on the earth (longitude, latitude and possibly altitude as well) then I know where the sun should be. Then, by using a IR camera (or several of of them), you can measure where the sun is. Then, working backwards, I know (within some error) what the angular orientation of the cameras and therefore the orientation of the robot, airplane, etc as well.
This gives you a fixed orientation measurement that doesn't require integration as apposed to inertial navigation systems which builds up error over time.
Of course that would only work during the day. I wonder what IR signal the moon has?
For orientation, that method would work great, except at around midday. Especially if your vehicle is on a tilt. That can be compensated for, though. But then again you can get hall effect compass systems for fairly cheap nowdays, which also have no accumulative errors or anything.
Now if your vehicle was on a body without any magnetic field, like the moon or something, then that would work very well. Especially if you could use the earth as a second reference point for when the sun is directly overhead.
I also tried the moon the other night, being a full moon, and I think that it wasn't bright enough either. Though I didn't try putting my sunglasses in front of the lense to test that out.
also does anybody know if the IR cameras from the Nyko or other brand wii remotes will work?
I'm looking into taking this a bit further and was wondering if you set up an area where you have 1 camera on one side and another facing perpendicular from another side like so...
_____________
| |
| |
| * |<
| |
|_____________|
^
Where ^ is a camera direction and * is the light source in this square environment
Would you be able to track 3 dimensions? (1 camera doing xy, the other doing yz). Would arduino be able to handle the two cameras? I also assume that each camera would need it's own interface circuit as well?