Wiimote IR Pen

Step 2 Build the Pen.

1. Start by cutting the hole for the switch (When I build the next one I'll add some images). I used the rotary tool for this. Made a hard job very simple. Practice using one of the other pens. It's quite easy once you get the hang of it. Just make sure the speed is high to cut away the plastic.

2. Using the rotary tool, make a hole in the the Coloured End of the pen, to fit the LED into (I mean the front of the pen. I burred a hole in the knob sticking out of the front of these pens. Don't take the knob off! Just use the arrow shaped burring tool to make the hole the right size).

3. Solder the Anode (+) wire (that's the longer one - Use the paperwork that comes with the LED if you need any more clarification) and make sure you remember to add a length of heatshrink tubing to fit over this wire and then over the anode after soldering.

4. Solder the Cathode (-) wire (that's the shorter one). (By the way, I had no need to cut either than anode or cathode. Just solder straight onto it). Then added the heatshrink tubing over both the Anode and Cathode and used a flame to shrink the tubing.

5. Cut a very small length of tubing to cover the plastic around the LED at the end.... you can't really see it clearly in the photo, but I have added this tubing over the end of the plastic tube. Make sure you don't cover the LED. You need this part to be CLEARLY visible.

6. Push the LED into the casing and pull the wiring through so it is sticking out of the hole you cut for the Micro Switch.

7. Using a multimeter and the continuity setting on it, locate the two terminals that join when the switch is pressed. If you bought the switch from Dick Smiths, it will be the terminals marked C (Common) and NO (Normally Open). The NC (Normally Closed) terminal will NOT be used.

8. Solder a wire from the Anode (+) to the Common Terminal on the switch. Solder a wire onto the Normally Open terminal.

9. Break open the "AA" Battery holder and remove the terminals from one end. Cut it in half. The Negative wire (Coming from the Cathode) will be soldered to the end with the spring on it. The Positive wire (Coming from the switch now) will be soldered to the other half. Make sure you make the wire long enough to pull the unit apart to replace the battery.

10. Cut the ends of the terminals to fit into the clear part of the casing. You will want it to be a very tight fit, so it sits there by itself when pushed down.

11. Using the araldite, add some glue to the heatshrink tubing around the LED and then around the top of the switch so it does not fall in.

12. Once it has dried, Add some heatshrink tubing over the switch cutting a small section out so it does not effect the button on the switch. Using a flame, shrink this tubing.