The wind is free , but turbines cost a lot , so here is how to build a ten foot diameter wind turbine on the cheap.
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Signing UpStep 1: Your tower needs an anchor
You don't want your tower to fall over, so you will need an anchor. I used over a thousand pounds of concrete that I set five feet deep in the ground.
I started by digging a five foot deep hole.












































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I think there is also a tutorial for building your own slip ring (electric connection that allowed rotation without cords winding up).
Go for it !!!
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36VDC 600W 21.3 AMP motor with built-in planetary gear reduction transmission and cooling fan. Gear ratio: 60:9 (6.67). Output shaft speed: 550 RPM. Shaft diameter where sprocket seats into is 8mm x 13mm with a dual-d bore. Includes 10 tooth sprocket for #40 or #420 chain. Powerful four brush permanent magnet electric motor design with 100% ball bearing construction. 12 gauge power leads. Shaft rotation reversible by reversing power leads. Mounting bracket measures 5-1/2" x 4-1/2" with 4 mounting holes. Mounting holes are spaced 4" center to center across by 2-1/2" center to center across. Weight 17 lbs.
Thanks.
If you live in a turblulent wind area have you considered making a verticle helix wind turbine, it catches wind from all directions and shouldn't be too challenging to make?
Otherwise, this is a great 'ible! I've gone through a few dozen on various turbines and windmills, and intend to make my own some day; when I have the free time. Yours is definitely a good one!
Thank you for the compliment , It makes me very happy when people like the things I make, please check out my other instructables.
I've done a little research and most of blade configuration is based on turbulence. Because I'm not worried about what happens to the wind after it hits my turbine, I went with the largest amount of surface area I could.
Thank you for being interested , please check out my other instructables.
If you go to google maps there is an elevation option , if you choose it then you will see wind maps right next to the elevation map. On your wind map , everything in orange (I think) is sustainable for wind power harvesting. I'm right near a big orange spot , so I gave it a shot.
We had some heavy winds a few days ago, and yes the trees caused a lot of turbulence, she kept turning out of the wind because the wind that was hitting the tree behind her was coming back and pushing the tail from side to side.
She seems to do better in low wind. I would really like to see how she handles at fifty feet.
keep us posted on your progress!
She is really just much to low, and I think I have cut the blades wrong, I guess I'll be cutting out 9 more blades when I bring her down to change the gear ratio.
Can you believe I don't have a job? I can't. Where the hell are all the jobs? I should have people knocking on my door trying to employ me, but no. Why can't I find a job?
. I would like to know what your costs were. How much for lumber, concrete, pipe for blades, &c.
. Please keep us up-to-date on your findings about how much power the rig puts out.
The 6 inch thin wall dwv pvc was 18 bucks a piece and if I had gone with 4 foot blades instead of 4 foot 10 inch I could have done it with just two sections of pipe but I really wanted a full 10 foot diameter.
I think I used 14 bags of concrete, at 7 bucks a bag. If I had collected a bunch of big rocks and bricks to drop into my hole I could have used much less and still filled three feet of my 5 foot deep hole.
All my moving parts are found items , and all the plywood was leftover from other projects. I used 3/4 inch for the body in a T configuration and 3/8 for my tail rudder.
So there are lots of places to save money on this. I believe this could have been done for much less money. Maybe less than 200 bucks if you really tried hard.
Ya might try 2 to 4 batteries with an inverter. 30's kinda over kill.
A charge controller would be goo thing too.
Outside of that ..........
Very good i'ble.
I always like to see how people do their turbine blades.
I'd really love to use 2 fork lift batteries but even if I can get them for free they weigh to much for me to move, and they are to big to hide in the craw space.
I attach my blades in a way similar to the ible found at this web address.
I will eventually install a slip ring.
At some point I will be adding an electrical pivot. I think there is a tutorial over at otherpower.com.