As requested by r-philp, here's a write up of how I made my wire clamping tool. This is simply a loose copy of the Clamp Tite brand tool. It is not to scale and absolutely not my idea/design in any way. I built both copies from a photo in the Garret Wade catalog.

Step 1: Tools and Materials

Tools: ( Not pictured )

Files- standard set and jeweler's set
Drill press with vice ( I used a cordless drill in some of my steps but the steps can be done on the drill press )
Dremmel with cut-off wheels
Sandpaper- coarse and fine
Drill bits- 7/64" & 13/64"
Countersink bit
1/4-20 tap
Calipers and ruler/tape measurer
Small hammer
Marking tools


1/4" I.D. aluminum tubing
1/8" ss rod
An old center punch ( I used a piece of 3/8" ss rod and turned my own nose piece )
1/4-20 ss all-thread ( Not pictured )
1/4-20 wing nut ( I turned my own from a large brass punch )
1/4" UHMW washer ( Not pictured. A regular steel washers might destroy your tool over time and regular plastic washers are too soft to hold up to the pressure of pulling the wire )
<p>This is a beautifully made clamp former. It is above my skill level so I concocted something that would be easier for me to make. I use a turnbuckle, all thread and a draw-bolt nut but you don't even need that just a nut ground to fit so it doesn't turn or let the wire slip past. The nut moves up the all-thread when you turn the threaded shaft with the handle. The tool stays the same length. You don't need roll pins because the wire you use is twisted around the tool at the nut. </p><p>The next one I make won't have the draw bolt washer but I won't tie the wire around the outside but right to the all-thread. There is a snap ring on the handle end to keep the shaft from falling out. At the end a nut and piece of all-thread is ground down to match the contours of the tool and has the clamp forming groove. I used a shut-off valve handle sawed off, drilled and threaded but if you use a larger diameter all-thread a diverter style handle for a shower it would be easier but you need to drill out the threads of the handle side of the turnbuckle to make room for it to turn freely. The first one I made sort of made itself and ended up with a drawbolt washer and a nut but I'll remake it with a drawbolt nut only and another one with a normal nut ground flat.</p><p>When you consider how this one works you can imagine building it from hardwood and brass. If you are really good you could use a quick release bolt to set up the tool quickly for the next clamp.</p>
<p>dude i was reading the instructible and it's exactly what i was thinking!</p>
You will be able to refine this design a lot. Mines not very pretty either. If you figure out how to add a slip nut, yours will be the very best around.
<p>Great idea Drake!</p><p>I drilled out the left hand threads so I could use a larger size bolt. I also used a SHCS on the tip end so it is replaceable and guides the end of the eye or j-bolt. A brass thumb nut makes a good traveler and a brass nut ground round serves to retain the bolt. </p><p></p>
Nice refinements. I like how wide the bushing is so the main screw doesn't unwind or move. Plus the top of the socket head cap screw makes a nice hard bearing. I like how you modify the bolt eye for added leverage and simplify the handle. <br>I made a caulking gun version that I like to work with because once you bend over the wire releasing tension helps get the tool out of the way with out wire cutters. I still have to cut the excess so , guess it might not be important. Anyway the dream version that I haven't built has a split nut held together with a spring. So you can release it from the bolt and set up the distance to match what ever slack ends you are twisting up.<br>A new concept I don't have the skill for or the layout figured out is to weld a lever to a pair of pliers that push while you hold the clamp ends. I work with linesman pliers and it would be cool if a tongue would push out when I need it. <br>If I had a drill that could drill into the tip of the pliers the gear notch a protruding rod. Somehow like with a cork puller handle in those notches push the rod out. A simpler lever placed just right might do it. <br>I would need to soften the pliers in a dying fire over night, work them and bring them back to temper after working them. My wife has other plans. Lol.<br>
<p>just brought all the parts to make my own .making it out os stainless steel the entire thing. being in uk ive gone metric using 8mm od 1mm tube which will fit m3 bar in with .25mm cleance either side (m3 is 5.5mm diameter)will post photos as i build it.</p>
I would definitely love to see your work in progress. Stainless will be a bit tougher to work with than brass and aluminum but it's doable. Good luck!
<p>Thanks for this! I made one completely out of scrap.</p><p>Originally I saw your brass tubing and tried to use a copper ice maker line. It seemed a little flimsy, so I upgraded to a 1/4&quot; galvanized pipe, 4&quot; long. That allowed me to use an off-cut of 5/16 threaded rod with a salvaged lawnmower wingnut. Pretty beefy, actually.<br><br>Tip was machined down just like you did, from a rod out of an old printer. And that extra hole in it? Well, when you said, &quot;The hard part- Drilling holes in round rod&quot;, I can attest to that! :)</p>
<p>Someone who built this, or wanted to, would probably get a few ideas from this video. </p><p>https://youtu.be/_HGZwDgr0PY?t=3m11s</p>
An old trick I was taught for drilling round stock: lay a piece of shim stock (any thin hard plate) across your clamped round stock and then bring your drill down to it, the shim will shift an exaggerated amount until you are centered. Shift your drill / vice until the shim shifts to a horizontal position and you know you are dead on center!
This was on my list of things to make. I'm interested in the tool but not enough to blink down $50+US to find out. <br> <br>The US patent number is 7,036,394 and is available on google patent search if you want the inner details. Just don't sell it if you make it.
<p>I don't see how they patented this. It was already invented and patented over a 100 years ago.</p>
<p>I couldn't say as to the patent in particular but when it comes to material and mechanical devices, patents can hinge on very small matters e.g.the angle of the thread of a worm screw. A patent can be issued for device that looks almost identical to prior art save for a small change if the change, no matter how minor, is judged to be a significant improvement to the device. </p><p>Also, If significant prior arts exist which is rather old then you can get a patent for &quot;improvements to existing art&quot; based on using new materials e.g. substituting plastic for a part formally made of wood. </p><p>In this case, none of the exact metals this device uses existed a century ago, so simply updating the existing device with new materials might have qualified it. </p><p>Just guessing. </p>
Here's a site I just found that covers a good portion of what you just stated: <br><br>http://www.nolo.com/legal-encyclopedia/improvement-patents-new-use-patents-30250.html<br><br>It's an interesting read
Nice one... I'm going to try and make one of these. :)
Great instructable. I made my own tool after seeing this. Not so good looking but it serves the purpose. <br>I just used stuff I had laying around. The tube is a pipe nipple. I used an angle grinder to cut the slots. For pins, I used regular machine screws because I tapped threads into the pin holes. <br>Posted a pic. Ignore the binder clip, just used it to prop up the tool for the photo. <br>
Sorry about the double photo. Not able to remove the duplicate for some reason. Can a moderator help and also delete this comment, please?
My kingdom for a lathe lol <br>Nice job, it's more then likely that I'll built one in the near future. <br>Thanks.
Thx! Post a pic and any tips you learn on the build.
It'll be a bit, but I'll be getting a lathe in about a month. <br>It's on my list of tools to build. <br>
Nice instructable you have made there and an excellent looking tool as well, it looks 1000% better than the tool I made several years ago (also from studying pictures). The first tool I made was a simple &quot;down and dirty&quot; tool to serve a much needed purpose and it performed very well. I may have to make another (smaller as well) and take more time with it, to make it look better. I like the drill and file method of turning it is the same method I used for mine and have used the turning method for several other projects. <br>May your good looking tool bring you many years of use and enjoyment. <br>Keep up the good work <br>Dan
Thank you for your excellent instructable. Kudos on your machining skills! I really appreciate the inclusion of alternate components for the parts you turned. It makes your project accessible to people without a metal lathe. Well Done!
I actually didm't use a lathe. I turned the nose and the wing nut the same way I turned the shoulder on the nose piece. A drill, files, sandpaper, and a few breaks to relieve the cramps in my fingers is all it took.
That's even more impressive!

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