Introduction: Wireless Firework Igniter
For all you pyrotechnics out there, here's a simple solution to keep you a little safer, and maybe save a hand or two! For this make, all you need are some simple components, a breadboard, and a Basic Stamp 2 along with knowledge on how to program it, as well as some method of programming it. And since it uses infared, it is (coincidentally) perfect for use in the dark!
Be sure when using this device to take proper safety precautions, as well as using it appropriately. I am not responsible for any injuries caused because of the improper use of it.
Step 1: Parts List
1) 2x Panasonic PNA4601M Infared detector
2) 1x 7805 5V Voltage Regulator
3) 2x 220-Ohm Resistors
4) 2x 1K-Ohm Resistors
5) 1x Red LED (or any color you wish, and the value doesn't matter; just use one that is 1-3.5V)
6) 1x White LED (preferably white; you can use another color, but make sure it is bright because you need to be able to see it from a distance. same values as above)
7) 1x 5V Buzzer
8) 1x Toggle Switch
9) 1x 9V Battery and Clip
10) 1x Breadboard with Binding Posts (you will need the binding posts for holding down the cables going to the igniter in case they get yanked)
10) 1x Basic Stamp 2 Microcontroller, as well as some method to program it (e.g. parallax's found HERE and the microcontroller HERE)
11) 2x Alligator Clips
12) Estes Rocket Engine Igniters OR Nichrome Wire (the same stuff Estes uses) NOTE: it is definitely more cost-effective to buy a spool of nichrome wire than to spend five bucks on a pack of Estes rocket engine igniters for the same cost as the spool of 10 feet of it)
12) Some Wire
Step 2: Tools
3) Wire Strippers
4) Glue Gun
Step 3: Putting It All Together
This is the schematic. Putting it together is self-explanatory, but interpreting the schematic, in some cases, is not. For all you who are not completely sure how to interpret a schematic, the below picture has notes on it that will help you. Read this first:
-The view of the BS2 in the schematic is looking at it from ABOVE, with the top (yes, there's a top) facing up
-This was my first time working with Eagle Cad (schematic-making software), so I couldn't quite figure out how to label the pins on the BS2 (maybe you can't?), so they are as follows:
(the format is: AS ILLUSTRATED ON SCHEMATIC : ACTUAL PIN ON BS2)
PIN 1: Sout (ignore)
PIN 2: Sin (ignore)
PIN 3: ATN (ignore)
PIN 4: Vss (ground)
PINS 5-12: pins 0-7
PINS 13-20: pins 8-15
PIN 21: Vcc (ignore)
PIN 22: Rst (ignore)
PIN 23: Vss (ground)
PIN 24 Vin (+)
Notes: Make SURE you use a 7805 5V Voltage Regulator. If you don't, you WILL damage or even destroy your BS2 module if you hook up more than 5V, and that's $50 down the toilet!! You can hook up 6 to 35 volts DC into the regulator (as long it is a 7805; I don't know about other ones), and it will be fine(obviously there's no mention here about a wall wart because it would be inconvenient to use one for this application).
(Vss is ground (negative, -), and Vdd is positive (+) )
Step 4: Add the Alligator Clips
For the alligator clips, I used some from the wiring section of Lowes, simple because Lowes was more convenient. But you can just as well get any from RadioShack, Mouser, Digikey, etc. If you go to Lowes and check their wiring section they should have them. All you have to do is run the wire through the plastic sleeves, strip the ends, and crimp the wire down on the screws. Once you have them finished, make sure you use the binding posts on the breadboard to hold them down as opposed to just sticking them into one of the breadboard's sockets. This way, if there is any force on the wire (i.e. someone steps on one of the cords, or they simply fall out), they won't get yanked out. It's okay to connect one to the ground binding post where everything else connects; it won't affect it.
Step 5: Secure Everything
If you use a PCB switch, then you won't have to worry about securing down the switch, but I just used that certain switch because I thought it looked nicer. Otherwise, glue it down onto the backing of the breadboard. Also, glue down the 9V battery onto the backing, too so it doesn't fly off. The nice thing about hot glue is that you can easily remove something you glued, while it's strong enough to hold anything otherwise. So if you ever need to replace the 9V battery, then you can just pop it off and glue a new one on.
Step 6: Program It!
Lucky for you, the source code is right below! Aren't you glad I saved you the pain? You will need parallax's BASIC Stamp Editor to program it. You can get it HERE. If you would like to view it another way, you can just download it and view it with notepad.
Step 7: Using It
BEFORE YOU USE IT, BE SURE TO USE IT ONLY WHEN IT IS COMPLETELY DARK OUTSIDE, OTHERWISE THE INFARED LIGHT FROM THE SUN MAY ACTIVATE IT.
Once it is finished, get the Estes rocket igniter tabs OR some nichrome wire, hook it up to the alligator clips, wrap it around the end of the fuse on the firework you want to light, Then back away. Next, all you have to do is point an ordinary TV remote (or any other kind of IR remote for that matter) at it, and push any button, and PRESTO! You've got a firework lit, and from a safe distance!
Notes: The 'signal LED' and the buzzer are simply indicators (and as a warning) that the signal from the remote has been received, and the firework is being lit. You don't HAVE to have these, but they are good to have as a safety precaution, and they make it look cooler.
Further expansion ideas: add multiple igniter leads for neat, timed fireworks displays with multiple fireworks; expand software to do so.
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