For all you pyrotechnics out there, here's a simple solution to keep you a little safer, and maybe save a hand or two! For this make, all you need are some simple components, a breadboard, and a Basic Stamp 2 along with knowledge on how to program it, as well as some method of programming it. And since it uses infared, it is (coincidentally) perfect for use in the dark!
Be sure when using this device to take proper safety precautions, as well as using it appropriately. I am not responsible for any injuries caused because of the improper use of it.
Be sure when using this device to take proper safety precautions, as well as using it appropriately. I am not responsible for any injuries caused because of the improper use of it.
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Signing UpStep 1: Parts List
1) 2x Panasonic PNA4601M Infared detector
2) 1x 7805 5V Voltage Regulator
3) 2x 220-Ohm Resistors
4) 2x 1K-Ohm Resistors
5) 1x Red LED (or any color you wish, and the value doesn't matter; just use one that is 1-3.5V)
6) 1x White LED (preferably white; you can use another color, but make sure it is bright because you need to be able to see it from a distance. same values as above)
7) 1x 5V Buzzer
8) 1x Toggle Switch
9) 1x 9V Battery and Clip
10) 1x Breadboard with Binding Posts (you will need the binding posts for holding down the cables going to the igniter in case they get yanked)
10) 1x Basic Stamp 2 Microcontroller, as well as some method to program it (e.g. parallax's found HERE and the microcontroller HERE)
11) 2x Alligator Clips
12) Estes Rocket Engine Igniters OR Nichrome Wire (the same stuff Estes uses) NOTE: it is definitely more cost-effective to buy a spool of nichrome wire than to spend five bucks on a pack of Estes rocket engine igniters for the same cost as the spool of 10 feet of it)
12) Some Wire
2) 1x 7805 5V Voltage Regulator
3) 2x 220-Ohm Resistors
4) 2x 1K-Ohm Resistors
5) 1x Red LED (or any color you wish, and the value doesn't matter; just use one that is 1-3.5V)
6) 1x White LED (preferably white; you can use another color, but make sure it is bright because you need to be able to see it from a distance. same values as above)
7) 1x 5V Buzzer
8) 1x Toggle Switch
9) 1x 9V Battery and Clip
10) 1x Breadboard with Binding Posts (you will need the binding posts for holding down the cables going to the igniter in case they get yanked)
10) 1x Basic Stamp 2 Microcontroller, as well as some method to program it (e.g. parallax's found HERE and the microcontroller HERE)
11) 2x Alligator Clips
12) Estes Rocket Engine Igniters OR Nichrome Wire (the same stuff Estes uses) NOTE: it is definitely more cost-effective to buy a spool of nichrome wire than to spend five bucks on a pack of Estes rocket engine igniters for the same cost as the spool of 10 feet of it)
12) Some Wire
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As suggested elsewhere, if you could make the device RF rather than IR, the problem with premature ignition would go away, and the range could be extended significantly.
One great thing about a microcontroller in this application is that you have the potential to install one or more (software and/or hardware) safety interlocks to make ignition impossible until you're really, really ready to light the sky with beauty.
As you mentioned near the end, a multi-channel device would be excellent! One of the drawbacks of commercial wireless firing systems (besides the cost) is the number of different items that can be ignited. When I do a small, family fireworks show, I have to work with just ten channels. A lot of people would love to see a device with 20-50 channels.
Good job! Keep plugging away!!
You need some sort of transistor between the BS2 and the nichrome wire, or you'll just blow out the pins on the microcontroller driving the high-resistance nichrome wire.
The BS2 has an on-board regulator that will accept a voltage as high as 15V.
The sun will not really affect this device.
Heed warning!