Introduction: Wireless Multi-Channel Voice-Controlled Electrical Outlets With Raspberry Pi

Picture of Wireless Multi-Channel Voice-Controlled Electrical Outlets With Raspberry Pi
Update 2/11/2014: Thanks to everyone who voted for this project in the Raspberry Pi contest!

This project is a combination of several difference resources:

The end result is voice-activated control of up to three electrical outlets using the Raspberry Pi. Here's a video of the final product in action (read on for a detailed parts list, circuit diagram, and code):

A couple notes before you begin. This project is up-to-date as of December 2013, but Gordon and Steve may update their respective software in the future. If you notice any major changes to WiringPi or Voice Command that make my instructions obsolete, please leave a comment or send me a message. Also, while my previous Instructable was written to be super beginner friendly, this one is a little more advanced so it skips over a lot of the introductory material. I refer back to the single-channel version several times, instead of duplicating the content here.

Here is a list of the parts I used. Of course, if you know what you're doing you can make substitutes as needed, or shop around for cheaper suppliers. Quantities in parenthesis.

Materials & Tools

The cost of this project depends heavily on what you already have lying around. If you already have a Raspberry Pi, webcam/mic and basic electronics equipment (tools, breadboard, jumper wire etc) it will only be about $40 for the wireless remote, relays and MOSFETs, and the cost goes up from there.

*My Quickcam Pro is 5 years old and I'm not sure if this exact model has been discontinued, or if it is the same thing as the "Webcam Pro 9000", which pops up on Amazon. You may need to do some poking around online to find out if your webcam is compatible with the Raspberry Pi (keep in mind that you only need the mic, and don't care about video). This wiki has an extensive list of verified peripherals.

Step 1: Open the Remote and Remove the Circuit Board

Picture of Open the Remote and Remove the Circuit Board

The first thing you'll need to do is open the plastic case of the remote to expose the circuit board.

1. Remove the battery cover and take the battery out for now.
2. Use a small Phillips head screwdriver to remove the single screw holding the front and back halves of the plastic case together.
3. Use needle nose pliers to bend off the keychain ring.

This exposes the underside of the circuit board, which you can remove from the case entirely to get a look at the top half. However, I find it easier to work with the circuit board attached to the front half of the case. This way, you can easily push the buttons when you're testing the circuit (next step). The battery also tends to stay in better when it's in the case. There was an unoccupied hole in the case that lined up with a hole in the circuit board - I used the small screw to attach the circuit board to the front half of the case (see the last two pictures above).

Step 2: Reverse-Engineer the Remote

Picture of Reverse-Engineer the Remote

This step will assume you already have basic knowledge of how a single-channel remote works. You can find a detailed explanation of that in my previous Instructable.

The basic idea here is the same - but instead of two buttons controlling a single channel (one ON and one OFF), you have six buttons controlling three channels (three ON and three OFF). Each of these buttons is connected to a pin on a chip on the circuit board (the black rectangle). Normally, these pins sit at 0V (a logical LOW). When the respective button is pressed, the pin goes up to 5V (a logical HIGH). Your ultimate goal is to "trick" the remote into thinking buttons are being pressed by sending a 5V signal from a circuit controlled by the Raspberry Pi (more on that later). In order to do that, you need to figure out which pins on the chip are connected to the pushbuttons, so you can solder jumper wires to them.

There are two complementary ways to do this. One is to just look at the traces on the back of the circuit board, and figure out which ones connect the pushbuttons to pins on the chip. You can also test this with a multimeter by testing to see which pin changes from 0V to 5V when you push each button (make sure the battery is in, or that won't work!). The latter can be a little difficult to do with just two hands, and is definitely easier if you have alligator clip attachments for your multimeter.

If you're using the exact same remote I linked to from Amazon, you should be able to follow my diagrams exactly. If not, you'll need to do some tinkering on your own to figure out which pins to solder to in the next step.

Step 3: Solder Jumper Wires to the Remote

Picture of Solder Jumper Wires to the Remote

Note: I opted for economy shipping from SparkFun for my multi-colored jumper wire. The good news is I got free shipping. The bad news is I only had red and black jumper wire available before that. The connections in this project are a little easier to keep track of if you have 8 different colors available. So, for the circuit diagrams (expertly drawn in Powerpoint), I'll use the following convention:

+5V: red
GND: black
ON1: blue
OFF1: gray
ON2: yellow
OFF2: brown
ON3: green
OFF3: white

In the photos of my actual build, you will only see red and black wire. Of course you can use whatever colors you prefer - my intent is that the color-coding scheme in the diagrams will be easier to follow, and I apologize that it doesn't match up to my photos exactly (it was this, or miss the deadline for the Hardware Hacking contest).

Anyway - now you need to solder jumper wires to the six pins identified in the previous step, plus the negative terminal of the battery connection (this will make sure your whole circuit has a common ground later). Seven connections total, as shown in the pictures above (a "fake" photo with the color-coded wires drawn in, as well as a photo of the real thing).

Optionally, if you'd like to protect the circuit board a little better, you can drill holes in the back of the remote's original case to feed the jumper wires through. Just make sure you can keep track of which wire is which. I used a label maker since I didn't have properly color-coded wire.

Step 4: Build the Circuit

Picture of Build the Circuit

Assemble the circuit on the breadboard. If you're good at following breadboard diagrams, you can just go ahead and use the first image above. If that seems a little overwhelming, try doing it one step at a time (following the pictures in order):

1. Insert the relays and MOSFETS (six of each). Important - I didn't realize until after I made all of these diagrams that the packaging on the relays is slightly too bulky for them to occupy adjacent breadboard rows, as pictured here. You will actually need one blank row in between each relay, adding five rows of total space to the build (which shouldn't be an issue if you're already using a big 60+ row breadboard).
2. Use jumper wires to make all the +5V (red) and ground (black) connections on the breadboard.
3. Connect the breadboard to the Raspberry Pi's +5V and GND pins, and to the negative battery terminal (-) on the remote. Important: do NOT connect the positive power rail on the breadboard to the (+) battery terminal on the remote. The remote battery is 12 volts, so if you short that to your Raspberry Pi's 5V pin, bad things will happen.
4. Connect the Raspberry Pi's GPIO pins (17, 18, 22, 23, 24, and 25) to the gates (left-most pin when facing the side with the writing) of the respective MOSFETs as shown. See the color-coded table above, which matches the wire colors I used in the breadboard diagrams, for help keeping track of everything. See this page for more information about the GPIO pins and the numbering scheme (which can be confusing if you're new to Raspberry Pi, especially if you're used to Arduino).
5. Connect the wires you previously soldered onto the remote to the breadboard. I use the same color-coding convention for these wires in the diagrams above.

For an explanation of how the circuit works, see this step of my previous Instructable.

Step 5: Install WiringPi

WiringPi is a very convenient way to control the Raspberry Pi's GPIO pins, especially if you are used to Arduino. It was created by Gordon Henderson and you can find download and installation instructions here. Follow the directions on his site to download and install WiringPi on your Raspberry Pi (using the command line in a terminal).

Note: I originally found out about WiringPi through this tutorial on controlling a single LED with the GPIO pins, hosted on It links to these download and installation instructions. WiringPi has since been moved to its own site, According to this post I believe will contain the most recent updates - so in the future make sure you follow download and installation instructions from and not, in case anything changes (as of December 2013, the instructions are still the same).

Step 6: Install Voice Command

In short, Voice Command is a C++ program included as part of a package called PiAUISuite (Pi Alternative User Interface Suite) written by Steven Hickson. It uses a microphone connected to your Pi to record audio, then connects to a Google speech-to-text service to convert the sounds to text that can be used to execute commands. Steve has some very helpful and extensive tutorials and YouTube videos that I highly recommend checking out before you dive into this part, and he already has it set up to do some neat things like open and play videos, Google stuff, or connect to Wolfram Alpha to try and answer questions. So, all of the credit for this goes entirely to Steve - I just took his setup and put a couple lines in the config file to control GPIO pins (using WiringPi, and of course the credit for that goes to Gordon Henderson).

I will provide all of the links that I found helpful, but it looks like he is still actively updating the project - so be sure to check his blog for updates and instructions to download and install the latest version. If you notice an update in the future, please leave a comment below with a new link.
So, as of December 2013, follow the directions in that last link to download and install PiAUISuite and Voice Command. In the next step you'll edit the config file to include voice commands for the GPIO pins.

Step 7: Edit the Voice Command Config File

In a terminal, open the Voice Command config file by typing the command

voicecommand -e

Add the following lines to the config file*:

light one on==tts "Yes, sir." && gpio write 0 1 && sleep 1 && gpio write 0 0
light one off==tts "Yes, sir." && gpio write 1 1 && sleep 1 && gpio write 1 0
light two on==tts "Yes, sir." && gpio write 3 1 && sleep 1 && gpio write 3 0
light two off==tts "Yes, sir." && gpio write 4 1 && sleep 1 && gpio write 4 0
light three on==tts "Yes, sir." && gpio write 5 1 && sleep 1 && gpio write 5 0
light three off==tts "Yes, sir." && gpio write 6 1 && sleep 1 && gpio write 6 0

You can probably guess what each line of this code does. When the phrase before the double equals sign is detected (e.g. "light one on") the code after the double equals sign executes. You can change each phrase to whatever suits your needs (e.g. "TV on", "desk light on" etc). tts is "text to speech" and will make your personal robot assistant respond appropriately (Steve's default is "Yes sir", I prefer something a little more ego-maniacal like "At your command, master."). The rest is the digital equivalent of pushing and releasing a button on the remote:

  • gpio write 0 1: set GPIO pin 17 to HIGH (ultimately sending a 5V signal to the remote, equivalent to pushing the button). See note below about pin numbering convention.
  • sleep 1: hold the pin HIGH for one second (equivalent of holding the button down)
  • gpio write 0 0: set the pin back to LOW (equivalent of releasing the button)
Be careful to get the syntax right -primarily no spaces immediately before or after the double equals signs.

Follow the on-screen directions to save the config file once you've added this code (ctrl+x to exit then y to save).

*Apparently WiringPi is compatible with two different numbering conventions - the Raspberry Pi GPIO pin numbers (17, 18 etc) or its own system that starts numbering the pins at 0. So, the following block of code will also work. You can use whatever convention you prefer.

light one on==tts "Yes, sir." && gpio -g write 17 1 && sleep 1 && gpio -g write 17 0
light one off==tts "Yes, sir." && gpio -g write 18 1 && sleep 1 && gpio -g write 18 0
light two on==tts "Yes, sir." && gpio -g write 22 1 && sleep 1 && gpio -g write 22 0
light two off==tts "Yes, sir." && gpio -g write 23 1 && sleep 1 && gpio -g write 23 0
light three on==tts "Yes, sir." && gpio -g write 24 1 && sleep 1 && gpio -g write 24 0
light three off==tts "Yes, sir." && gpio -g write 25 1 && sleep 1 && gpio -g write 25 0

I skipped using WiringPi pin 2 so I could stick with "pairs" of pins that were across from each other on the header for on/off (for the first two channels, at least). Somewhat arbitrary, and you can use different pins if you'd like. You can read about the reasoning behind the WiringPi convention here.

Step 8: Test It!

Plug in three different appliances to your wireless outlet adapters. Make sure you are in range of the remote (check the original packaging or instruction manual).

Before you start, you need to initialize the GPIO pins as outputs. At the command prompt in a terminal, enter

gpio mode 0 out
gpio mode 1 out
gpio mode 3 out
gpio mode 4 out
gpio mode 5 out
gpio mode 6 out

Next, run Voice Command in continuous mode

voicecommand -c

and start issuing commands! Make sure your spoken commands exactly match the ones you put in the config file. Not working as expected? Head over to the next step for some troubleshooting tips.

Challenge to Linux gurus (I'm a complete amateur): put the GPIO initializations and voicecommand -c into a shell script so you can run a single command to initialize everything. Don't hesitate to leave a helpful comment.


Step 9: Troubleshooting

Something not working? Here are some troubleshooting steps you can try, roughly in order:

  • Make sure your wireless remote and outlet adapters are working on their own, independent of the Raspberry Pi. Completely unplug the remote from your Raspberry Pi circuit, make sure the battery is in, and make sure you can turn lights on and off just by pushing buttons on the remote. If that works, at least you know your remote isn't broken.
  • Skip Voice Command and try turning your GPIO pins on and off directly from the command prompt (e.g. just type gpio write 0 1, then remember to type gpio write 0 0 to set the pin LOW again). You should hear a very audible "click" when the relays switch positions. Try this individually for each of the six GPIO pins and corresponding relays.
  • If you don't hear the relays click at all, double check your breadboard wiring relative to the circuit diagrams. One misplaced wire can mess everything up. If you have a multimeter available, this would be a great time to use it - make sure you are actually getting 3.3V at the outputs of the GPIO pins, and 5V at the outputs of the relays.
  • If you're having trouble with Voice Command, there are several things you can try, such as adjusting the threshold in the config file, or the amount of time the program will listen for commands (e.g. it might cut you off if your command phrases are too long).  The speech recognition isn't perfect, so try enunciating your speech very clearly, or new command phrases that might be easier to recognize. For example, sometimes my program would record "lights off" when I said "light off", and the command wouldn't work.


Ben Finio (author)2017-11-26

Hi - you'd have to contact the author of PiAUISuite for help with errors when installing it. I am not the author of that software so unfortunately can't really help with debugging it. Note that I wrote the directions for this project several years ago so they may be out of date if he has updated his software. There are a lot of new projects out there for doing voice control on the Pi, for example using Google Home. Sorry I can't be of more help!

quinteng15 (author)Ben Finio2017-11-26

Thanks for the reply. I haven't been able to get a hold of Steven Hickson who wrote the program. Would you still be able to use the voice command software from a different source to control the GPIO pins? That is the only problem I'm running into with that.

Ben Finio (author)quinteng152017-11-26

Hi - as I understand it, in general there are two different systems you need to connect here:

- something that converts voice commands to text and allows you to run Linux commands. There are various ways to do that like PiAUISuite and various new commercial solutions like Google Home, Amazon Alexa etc, and people have started hacking the latter to get them to work with Raspberry Pis: Do some googling and you will probably find more examples.

- a way to control the GPIO pins with a programming language of your choice. In this project I used WiringPi but you can also do it in Python, etc.

So basically, there are multiple ways to interpret voice commands, and multiple ways to control the GPIO pins - there should be multiple combinations that will work.

Merlin13245 (author)2017-06-20


I'm having some troubles getting the remote to send signals to the receivers. As far as I can tell, I have everything hooked up on the breadboard correctly, I can clearly hear the click of the relays when I send signals through the console of the raspberry pi. The light on the remote also turns on and off, however, no signal is sent to any of the receivers. When pressing the buttons manually on the remote, I get the exact same result, the light turns on and off but no signal is sent.

The remote still works, when I disconnect it from the raspberry pi the buttons all work as intended, but as soon as I plug it back in the remote stops sending signals. This leads me to believe that I have not created a short with my amateur soldering job. I should mention the the negative wire (the one connected closest to the battery) seems to have no effect on any of my test regardless of if it was plugged in or not.

I'm lost as to what to try next, any ideas?

Thanks in advance,


Ben Finio (author)Merlin132452017-06-21

Hi Conrad - the next step I'd recommend is getting a multimeter and debugging what's going on by measuring voltages at different points in the circuit. If you can hear the relays clicking then you know your GPIO pins are toggling on and off correctly, but something might be wrong with the connections to the remote. I have a more detailed breakdown of this process in an earlier project if you haven't seen that already:

and if you aren't familiar with using a multimeter, there are TONS of instructables on that topic, along with one here that I wrote for work (shameless plug):

Merlin13245 (author)Ben Finio2017-06-21


Thanks for the quick response! I've done as you asked, here are my findings.

The pins I have the wires connected to seem to be the correct pins. When the button is not pressed, 12 volts come through on one side, and 0 on the other. When the button is pressed, 4.2 volts on both sides (exactly as your diagram in the Wireless Christmas lights instructibles shows). I've tested every pin on all 6 buttons, and concluded that I am hooked up to the correct places.

Here are some interesting things I found while debugging...

The breadboard outputs 5 volts when I activate the pins accordingly, the button on the transmitter however only passes through 4.2 volts. Does the 0.8 volt difference make any difference as to if the transmitter would work or not? A reminder that the light on the transmitter is turning on when activated through the pi.

When the transmitter is fully plugged into the breadboard (both the wires to the buttons and the negative battery wire), pressing the button on the transmitter no longer gives the 4.2 volts it did before, instead it gives 0.01 volts. When I disconnect the negative side from the breadboard, the button works as if it was not connected at all, but trying to "press" the button from the pi still does not work.

Any ideas as to what could be going on? Please let me know if you would like pictures/diagrams, and I'll do the best I can!

Thanks again!


Ben Finio (author)Merlin132452017-06-22

Hi Conrad - if I understand your description correctly, there might be a short circuit somewhere involving the ground wire that you connect to the breadboard. The first thing to do would be to check your soldering job for the ground wire. If your multimeter has a continuity test function you can use that to test different contact points to see if they are connected (and if you find any that SHOULDN'T be connected, that's a short). Another approach would be to remove some components from the breadboard and test the relays one at a time. That might help you isolate the problem.

Pictures might help but unfortunately you've caught me at a bad time - I'm moving this weekend and won't be online for most of next week. So if you take some pictures of your circuit I'll be able to take a look but probably not for a couple weeks.

Merlin13245 (author)Ben Finio2017-09-05


I know its been awhile since you've heard from me, but I've got some good news! My circuit boards are working! Not sure what the problem was, but after boxing them up and shaking them around (literally I moved to college), they seem to be working.

I've got just one more problem, this one with the PiAUISuite/voice command. The voice command for "Turn the lamp on" is recognized, but instead of running the "gpio write 17 1 && sleep 1 && gpio write 17 0", it just prints out that string.

Do you know how to get it to actually run the command or should I go to the creator of PiAUISuite?

Thanks in advance (again),


Ben Finio (author)Merlin132452017-09-05

Hi Conrad -

This project is so old (by software standards) that unfortunately it will be hard for me to debug anything like that. My first guess is that maybe you don't have WiringPi properly installed (see step 5) - but with 3 years of changes to Raspbian, WiringPi, and VoiceCommand, who knows what change to any of those three things could prevent my original instructions from working as written. I haven't really used them since I wrote this.

If your goal is to get some sort of voice-controlled home automation going, then there are probably a lot of new options out there with the burgeoning popularity of home assistants like Google Voice and Amazon Alexa. Google released something specifically for the RPi:

and I have seen various posts about people hacking the Alexa on sites like

So, I'd say the *hardware* part of this project is still relevant (wiring up an RPi's GPIO pins to a wireless outlet remote), but there are probably newer, better, and faster ways to do the software (with better support) that you can look into.

SaadA37 (author)2016-07-04

I am currently working on this project and uptil now it is working great but instead of remote i wanto use xbee to send signal wirelessly can anybody help me?

Ben Finio (author)SaadA372016-07-05

Hi - unfortunately I don't have any experience using xbee. You might be better off asking in the tech forum

or maybe a dedicated Arduino forum somewhere.

LaDonnaM2 (author)2016-04-20

I am currently working on this for a school project. I'm wondering, since the raspberry pi doesn't have built in speakers, did you have to add some?

Ben Finio (author)LaDonnaM22016-04-21

Correct. The Raspberry Pi has two ways to output audio - HDMI (if you connect it to an HDMI monitor or TV with built-in speakers) and the 3.5mm "headphone" jack where you can plug in external speakers.

lutvia (author)2016-03-31

Your project is very impressive and I would like to learn to make it too. But Raspberry Pi 1 model B that you are using is not longer in my country. If I use Raspberry Pi 2 Model B, whether the setting circuit wiring on a breadboard system you describe previously changed or not? Thank you for your explanation

Ben Finio (author)lutvia2016-04-01

Hi - luckily all the newer model Raspberry Pis are backwards-compatible with the original GPIO pin layout. The original model only had 24 pins; the newer ones have 40 but the first 24 are still in the same order, so nothing changes.

lutvia (author)Ben Finio2016-04-01

what if the wireless adapter socket not just plugged in the lights but in a fan and TV. Fan and TV can be turned on with a voice like a lamp or not? If not, what settings should be added so that it happens?

Ben Finio (author)lutvia2016-04-02

Any appliance (lamp, TV, fan, etc) that plugs into the wireless socket will work. I just used lights as an example.

lutvia (author)Ben Finio2016-04-02

Okay. Voice command software does not explain her fit or not with Raspberry Pi 2 models B. What do you think, I should buy Raspberry Pi 1 model B+ or no problem to buy Raspberry Pi 2 Model B? Your suggestions are very helpful. Thank you very much for answering all my questions :)

Ben Finio (author)lutvia2016-04-04

Be careful not to get the physical model of the Raspberry Pi (B+, 2, etc.) mixed up with the version of the operating system (Raspbian). Raspbian is designed to be largely backwards-compatible so the newest version will always run on older Raspberry Pis. You would have to contact the author of VoiceCommand to find out if his software is compatible with the latest version of Raspbian (forget his website but it's listed in my Instructable somewhere). If not, you could try to find a place where you can download older versions that are compatible.

QAA1 (author)2016-03-26

how can I connect wireless microphone with Raspberry pi ?.

Ben Finio (author)QAA12016-03-29

If it's a USB microphone you use it like any other USB device and just plug it into one of the Pi's USB ports.

jimmel anthonyA1 made it! (author)2016-03-11

this is the relay ive been talking about. ive seen projects on raspberry pi using this relay module.

I'm not familiar with that module personally, but if you've seen other Raspberry Pi projects using it, then I don't see why it wouldn't work.

jimmel anthonyA1 (author)2016-03-11

this the relay module ive been talking about. ive seen projects using raspberry pi and this relay module.

jimmel anthonyA1 (author)2016-03-09

can i use a relay module instead of the relays and mosfet you use?

Not sure what a relay module is - is it a package with multiple relays in it? If so that should work. Not sure if you will still need the mosfets; the RPi's GPIO pins can't supply much current so it depends if they can drive the relay coils directly.

jimmel anthonyA1 (author)2016-03-05

can i ask what os you are using in your raspberry pi?

Raspbian. I wrote this a couple years ago but it should still work on newer versions of Raspbian.

jimmel anthonyA1 (author)2016-03-01

sir i only have 4 relays, 4 mosfet and a 4 channel wireless outlet remote. my question is how many of the outlet will work if i only have this material?

It depends on what type of remote you have. Does the remote have two buttons per channel (separate on and off), like the one I used? Or does it have a single button per channel to toggle on/off? You need one relay per button, so if there are 2 buttons per channel you will only be able to do 2 channels, but if there is only 1 button per channel, then you can do all 4.

isaac8927 (author)2016-01-14

And ben me am in china and here in china google it has been blocked i can't use google until i use VPN to access google so my question is will it affect any thing in this project if i can't access google Ex; google speech and sorry for to many question because i really like this project that why am try doing my best to succeed and thanks again for your other reply

JimmyA12 (author)isaac89272016-01-31

hi, i will be using a double channel wireless remote instead of using the one used on this project. how many relays and mosfet do i need to use?

Ben Finio (author)JimmyA122016-02-01

Hi - you need one relay and mosfet per button on the remote.

JimmyA12 (author)isaac89272016-01-31

hi, i will be using a double channel wireless remote instead of using the one used on this project. how many relays and mosfet do i need to use?

JimmyA12 (author)isaac89272016-01-31

hi, i will be using a double channel wireless remote instead of using the one used on this project. how many relays and mosfet do i need to use?

Ben Finio (author)isaac89272016-01-14

Hi isaac,

Ah, sorry about that. I figured you weren't in the US but didn't realize you'd have to deal with China firewall issues. To be clear, I am NOT saying that you need to stop asking me questions about the Instructable or Raspberry Pi in general. I just can't really help with specific questions about Voice Command because I really don't know that much about it.

Unfortunately I have no idea how access to various Google services works in China. VoiceCommand does work by connecting to a google speech-to-text service, so if that is blocked, then the project would not work.

There might be some alternatives though. Check out "Jasper", which is another program designed to do voice commands on the Raspberry Pi:

On their "Configuration" page they have a section on "Choosing an STT (Speech to Text) Engine":

that list several alternatives to the Google tool, some of which do not require internet connections at all.

I have never used Jasper so would not be able to help you with setup, you would need to follow the documentation on their page.

isaac8927 (author)Ben Finio2016-01-14

Thank you so much ben i will try to use jasper program because it the first time i will be using

isaac8927 (author)2016-01-14

first time i wrote this command- speaker-test to here the song if it's coming but it didn't come so i type this command sudo apt-get install alas-utils mpg321 lame to install i think it's sound driver because i follow the guy from youtube then it was saying error so i should type the command sudo apt-get update then i did the update and upgrade for the system then i try again then it work the i type the command speaker-test then the sound came in the speaker so i manage to get the sound but in the part of you hear anything (y/n)? at the first time before i got a sound i put n then it was saying i may have problem something like alsamixer so i went through youtube then i manage to get a sound but but if i put y it tell me it to hear the voice but no voice is coming but in a steven video i heard he was saying about something like pause audio he say if i didn't configure the pause audio i can not here the word fill so that the part i didn't understand what kind of the pause audio he was talking about and i think that the problem that why am not getting the voice in voicecommand -s

And another thing in voicecommand -e when i have already set the command then when i press ctrl x to Exit and y to save it give me the text were i should save the file then when i press enter to accept it tell me this message Error writing /home/pi /.commands.conf: No space left on device. so what should i do in problem like this

Ben Finio (author)isaac89272016-01-14

Isaac -

- I'm afraid I can't help you much on the first paragraph. At this point you are following other people's tutorials, and I didn't write those so I really can't help you with them. I am not a Raspberry Pi or Linux expert and don't have any experience with the alsamixer or speaker-test commands. I'm sorry that I can't be of more help.

- For the second paragraph, what size SD card are you using? If it is only 4GB, you may be running out of space on the SD card. If it is 8GB or more, then you can type sudo raspi-config in a terminal and select and select "Expand filesystem". That will expand the image to fill up the whole SD card (initially when you flash the card it is only a 4GB image).

isaac8927 made it! (author)Ben Finio2016-01-14

ben if it shows like this what is a problem because i speak the command pi but it not taking command and no respond

Ben Finio (author)isaac89272016-01-14

isaac - I'm sorry but I'm really not sure how else to explain this. I did not write the VoiceCommand software and am not really able to help you troubleshoot it. It was written by a guy named Steven Hickson. His website is here and you may be able to reach him through that:

Ben Finio (author)2016-01-14

Hi isaac - you had a couple questions but I'll answer them all in one place:

- The Raspberry Pi does not have a hard drive like a regular computer. All of the files, including the operating system itself, are stored on the SD card. So, if you re-flash the SD card, that will overwrite all of your previous files. It sounds like you already did this, but in the future you can back up files in advance (for example, if you have a Python script you want to keep, you can email it to yourself, then re-download it after you reflash the SD card).

- I noticed in your screenshot that the VoiceCommand setup asked "Did
you hear anything (y/n)?" and you typed "y", but you said in your
comment you didn't hear anything. "y" stands for "yes" and "n" stands
for "no", so if you did not hear anything you should type "n" and maybe
VoiceCommand will adjust the sound automatically. You might want to try
that before you try the next point.

- Sound: the Raspberry Pi has two options to output audio, HDMI and the 3.5mm jack. Are you using an HDMI TV/monitor with built-in speakers, or do you have a separate speaker plugged into the 3.5mm jack? Sometimes the Pi will not properly recognize the right audio source and you have to set it manually. To do this, open a terminal and type sudo raspi-config then hit enter. Use the arrows to scroll down to Advanced Options and hit enter. Then select Audio and hit enter. Then you can select whether to force audio over HDMI or the 3.5mm jack. It may ask you to reboot after picking one.

- As for not getting a response, if sound is not working or VoiceCommand did not complete installation then you will not hear a response, so you should try to fix the previous problem first. Just to check though, do you have a USB microphone plugged in to your Pi?

isaac8927 (author)2016-01-14

And even when i say command pi am not getting response

isaac8927 made it! (author)2016-01-14

thanks ben i download the image file and re-flash the SD card in put it in raspberry pi now the voicecommand -e it's working now but am getting this problem of not getting sound in opening configure file when it reach in that part of "First I'm going to say something and see if you hear it " but i can't hear any voice in my speaker i don't know what's the problem

isaac8927 made it! (author)2016-01-13

i try again to use manually way now it say this

Ben Finio (author)isaac89272016-01-13

Isaac - do you know which version of the Raspberry Pi you have? Is it a model B+ or a Raspberry Pi 2? I checked Steve Hickson's blog and it looks like he has a more recent post with an SD card image that includes Voice Command pre-installed:

That post is from August 2014 and says it's compatible with the B+. If you have a model B+, then I would suggest that you re-flash your SD card with the image provided on that page, and that might solve the problem. If you are running a Raspberry Pi 2, which has a newer operating system, I am not sure if it would work. You would have to contact Steve Hickson to ask.

isaac8927 (author)Ben Finio2016-01-13

And another thing after i re-flash the SD card and put another image file in the SD card will the first image file i install in raspberry pi still remain in raspberry pi or when i re-flash the SD card it will also be formatted

isaac8927 (author)isaac89272016-01-13

Ok sorry ben it's just my computer it's stuck at the time i was posting comment then when it's start working it appear i have send many same post and The raspberry pi am using it's B+ same as the one you use so i will go to the link you send to me and download the image file and try it again

Ben Finio (author)isaac89272016-01-13

Also it looks like you are posting duplicates of many of your comments - I think that could be a bug with Instructables' site, but try not to hit the submit button more than once.

isaac8927 made it! (author)2016-01-13

hi ben i have a problem i try to type the voicecommand -e but it tell me file directory cannot found then i try install the PiAUISuite and i try again it say like this

About This Instructable




Bio: For my day job I write K-12 STEM projects for In my spare time I write Instructables.
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