I bought a 16' x 4' pool, but found that a gas or electric heater would cost more than the price of the pool itself. I also had a lot of limbs and split wood from a fallen tree in my yard. This made for a very easy and effective combination. Now, when I burn wood in my fire pit, I also heat my pool.
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So often old bbq's are being given away on kijiji / craigslist
and i'm pretty sure BBQ's are engineered to retain heat.
pull out the burners, put in a low prfile fuel log type fire, and install the copper on the underside of the lid?
or run off propane i suppose, and just put the copper on the grill.
get it at nortonhydrotherm.com
save yourself the head ache. it will pay for itself in no time.
josh
I tried this once, worked great but decided to go solar.
Anyway, I used a Hayward brand natural gas pool heater. When you strip it down above the burn chamber is a six or seven tube heat exchanger, complete with fins, and manifolds at each end. A simple replumb of the fittings to match however you are getting the water from your pool, then stick it on top of you fire in whatever means you can manage. I set up a feed line off the main return from my pump, in and out of the heat-ex, then back to the pool using garden hose. I had to max out the flow rate to stop the water from boiling in the heat exchanger.
Technically you should probably use fire-rated brick; then again in this application if one of the bricks decided to explode (which they can do), your face would probably be nowhere near it.
Do be careful when refueling though.
Even if it did melt, the water would put the fire out straight away. A slight problem if you're using propane however.
I understand that this is probably pretty serviceable for a summer or two but I would think it would have to be rebuilt after a number of fires. What is your experience with it?
Ideally I would use stainless steel pipe (if I could find any) in the fire and then copper to the pool. That would last for a very long time.
Whole different story if there is no water running through the tubing though.
I used the copper coil because it gave me the longest run of pipe to heat, but melting could be a problem in the future. Because this is not a pressurized system, there should not be any danger of a blow out. Still, it is a good point you raised. I'll keep a close eye on it the summer and let you know.
Steve
Steve
I bought 3/8 pipe which was cheaper at $75 for 60 feet. It comes stacked in cardboard boxes stacked on the shelves in the plumbing section.
Steve
Which ever way you go, let me know how it turns out.
What if you "sandwiched" the coil between the top cover and a piece of galvanized sheet metal? In my mind the sheet metal would serve as a shield, thereby protecting the tubing from the direct effects of the flames.
Since this system is not pressurized and the water temperature in the copper pipe fluctuates between 80-110 F, I don't think there is a need to insulate the pipe from the direct flames. At worst, if the pipe rupture they would simply act as a sprinkler to extinguish the fire. I have yet to see any significant damage or distortion in the pipe, so I think it should be o.k.
Thanks for the question. Hope this helps.
Here is a good website for a good piece of metal pipe that would be usable with your idea. Also think about heating the house using this method.
http://www.hilkoil.com/
I use something like your idea, but I put a small car radiator and fan next to the wall, use a 12 volt battery (deep cycle) and run the water through the radiator and the fan to move the heat into the trailer. It works wonders and 15 or more surplus pallets cut up will do for a long cold spell and I have good warmth in the room.
Thats a good idea with the car radiator. I had thought about looking for a junk radiator coil off a refrigerator or a/c unit before I found the coil.