Basically, we took an inflatable hot tub out to the Ocean Beach here in San Francisco, filled it with salty ocean water, built a bonfire, set a heat exchanger up on top of the fire, and pumped the saltwater through the exchanger until we had a nice, hot tub to lounge around in.
Here's how we did it!
Note: Thanks to our photographer friend Loren for taking some pictures at the beach. The well-lit nighttime photos are his. Naomi Dabby took our intro photo, below, at Priceless.
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Signing UpStep 1: Build the Heat Exchanger
We made our heat exchanger out of 3/4 inch tubing, various fittings for the ends, and 12" diameter cylindrical sheet metal duct. The whole thing ended up being about six feet tall. Click through the photos to see the exchanger under construction. Whit coiled the tubing, stuffed it up into the duct, and then brazed the connections onto the ends.
Whit says the copper got work-harded as he coiled it, so that first step was more annoying (and resulted in a less-regular coil) than we expected. But it worked just fine.












































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Question: how did you design the heat exchanger? Did you use cross flow heat exchanger theory or did you 'wing' it? I you would like to improve the design, I could send you some calcs+suggestions? I'm glad you guys used copper tubing, high ductility for coiling and great conductivity for heat transfer!
Preface: please don’t build a heat exchanger that can produce a steam supply directly to the pool, run the heated water through a mixing vessel first! Safety, steam burn like bloody murder! Experiance hurts!
Guidelines: Take into account two mechanisms of heat transfer:
Convection: heated air transfers energy to the water whilst flowing over the pipes, thus increasing pipe area (reduce diameter and increase amount of coils and/or increase coil length and/or adding fins to the piping), funnelling more air across the pipes with a larger cone section in the bottom leading to a converging chimney section would also aid convection.
Radiation: the coals of the fire radiates energy through LOS (Line Of Sight) infrared, thermal radiation, thus the increasing the LOS area of the piping closest to the fire would increase thermal radiation. I would advise adding a short fins to the pipe to aid in radiant heat transfer in a coned section closest to the fire.
Further: the addition of large fins to the tube surface would not necessarily lead to improved heat transfer, where exists an optimum shape. It may be best to stick with multiple thin coils of a substantial length, possible with the addition of modest fins. Start small and experiment!
Finally: Counter flow heat exchanger perform better than parallel flow, but establishing natural flow in the water from the top to bottom of the heat exchanger is problematic. It would probably require the tub to be above the top inlet of the heat exchanger for buoyancy to be sufficient to establishing natural flow (or require forced flow). Natural counter flow is probably not an option, but maybe someone can hack it!
I quickly sketched a very rough concept (sorry that is is hand drawn, time!):
by same person,any ideas why
I did similar except I used a on demand hot water propane heater.
Yes I know what your going to say; but in the end it was allot cheaper and I didn't have to deal with wood...
Amazon has them for 115. RV water pump ebay 20.00, large blow up wading pool 25.00, hose 30.00. Propane tank already have 40lb propane 30.00.
I dug a hole and put that black gardening plastic down and then lined the hole with leaves as an insulator. Put the blowup pool in and inflated. Adjusted hole until pool was supported on all side. Filled with water. Put the inlet hose in it that goes to the pump and to the inlet of the water heater. The outlet from water heater into the pool. run the pump on a deep cycle battery that is used in my truck. You can even control the temperature on the water heater and flow. It takes about 10 minutes to warm up the whole pool. Remember the number of people that get in will displace the water.
...or i suppose the point may be that being an open loop hose, pressure will always be able to release through the open end of the hose. in any event, watching water output temp and making sure it stays below 200 could be key...
When I have a chance, I'm going to dig through this thread and the accompaning links. Thanks for the ideas everyone!
to finish my long-winded explanation, the fire worked as both a source of heat, a pump, and a design point. I thought it was cool.
http://www.xerxy.com/2010/09/20/coolest-hot-tub-ever/
but at home i like a real good hot tub ,LIKE SUNDANCE SPA
http://www.xerxy.com/2010/09/20/coolest-hot-tub-ever/