Wood Propeller Fabrication

 by AeroEngineer
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Step 1: Obtain Propeller Cross Sections

First you must have full size cross sections (about 10, from root to tip) of your propeller. There are tools online for designing propellers, but you will need some CAD software to create the drawings and 2-D cross sections. I used CATIA, but any 3-D modeling software will do. (I also have a detailed instructions on design of propellers here (www.aerodyndesign.com) Of course you will have to print out the cross sections of the propeller on to paper, at full scale size. Because you will need to cut them out and glue them to thin peice of aluminum or tin.
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elevalther says: Jun 27, 2012. 1:26 PM
Hi AeroEngineer Do know our design of the propeller are valid for a windmill, or do you have a design for a 3-blade propeller
awesomecreations in reply to elevaltherJan 28, 2013. 12:09 PM
A windmill blade should work best if done the "opposite" way to a driven one. This means that the tip of the blade should be parallel to the direction of the wind and the base should be at about 90 degrees to that. The curvature along the airfoil should also be reversed so that the wind hits the flatter or more concave side of the blade.
Valvolino1978 says: Jun 22, 2012. 11:34 AM
Hi everyone, I'm new here and in props building (never done one before).
I'd like to build that one built by AeroEngineer, but I need help.
Firstly, he say that printing 200% pdf can give a full scale (1:1) design: well, the pdf posted on this forum (http://www.aerodyndesign.com/PROP_10/PROP_10.pdf) it's an A4 format and if I print it, even doubled in dimensions, I obtain a scaled print also (an A4 has the longer side 11" long and if doubled it reaches 22", but propeller diameter is 48"!) So, how to?
Then another question: the propeller, even if mounted in the rear of the fan powered boat as shown, is a pulling one, ain't it? Blades profile seems to confirm this supposition.
Thanks in advance for the kind help you all may give to me.

Valvolino

fuddle says: Mar 6, 2012. 10:09 AM
Why did you choose this particular foil, and is there a reason you chose to make it completely of wood rather than say, foam-filled laminate?
AeroEngineer (author) in reply to fuddleMar 13, 2012. 3:51 AM
Fuddle,

Thanks for you questions. I used a NACA 4412 because it has a flat bottom, making it esier to carve. I used wood because I wanted to carve a propeller. I think wood propellers look great. I have started thinking about using foam and fiberglass, but foam does not make a very accurate tool to lay composite onto for high twist propellers, but wood does, so I want to use wood as my master for molding the fiberglass.

Mike
fuddle in reply to AeroEngineerMay 2, 2012. 2:29 AM
Superb. Thanks for the answer.
I agree there's definitely something about wood propellors that make them stick out. And 100% agreed- wood is an excellent base for a template.
PS- "props" *insert groan* on your drafting skills- or should I say "pitch-ers".
Oh dear. How pun-ishing.
Reefpimp says: Nov 29, 2008. 9:01 PM
Congratulations, you've succeeded in giving everybody who reads this just enough knowlege to be dangerous. If you're considering building a wood propellor for ANYTHING that spins real fast, PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE make sure your woodworking skills are up to snuff. And use a waterproof glue such as Titebond III, resorcinol, or epoxy. Explosive delamination is a very real possibility.
fuddle in reply to ReefpimpMar 6, 2012. 10:20 AM
What ever happened to Individual Freedom, Liberty and the responsibility that goes along with it?
The man gave an excellent instructable that was accessible to those without the luxury of a tertiary education.
Normal Wood glue is fine- see how hi-tech bi-plane fighters props were- they were used hide and hoof glue they did the job fine.
As long as the constructor follows the glue instructions (dry and free from grease/dust etc & is clamped (expulsion of air) no probs.
As far as I recall, airboat props are encased in a wire cage. If it were to delaminate- the centripetal force and airfoil vortex would blow it backwards- so nothing to worry about in front.
How Its Made (Airplane propellors)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JvLra7G31cU

Stop being a girl. Something has to kill you in this life.
AeroEngineer (author) in reply to ReefpimpNov 30, 2008. 11:24 AM
This is true.
itri45 says: Jan 13, 2012. 12:58 PM
If i download the pdf what percentage size should i print these out at for it to be full scale
AeroEngineer (author) in reply to itri45Jan 14, 2012. 5:31 AM
200%
bertus52x11 says: Dec 21, 2011. 11:08 PM
That's an impressive piece of art!
You have an equally impressive spreadsheet on your personal website, though. Is it all right to contact you directly with some questions about the maths behind it?
david.beck says: Oct 18, 2011. 7:08 PM
gotta give you props on this one
AeroEngineer (author) in reply to david.beckOct 23, 2011. 9:08 AM
Thanks :)
broper says: Oct 5, 2011. 7:12 PM
dose that achualy work
TimmyMiller says: Aug 20, 2011. 1:22 PM
I wnt to your website and saw your prop duplication machine and do you think you can put an instructable for it? I want to make one.
AeroEngineer (author) in reply to TimmyMillerAug 23, 2011. 5:53 PM
Tim,

I didn't take enough pictures of the build so I can't really make one. But I do have some of the drawings on my website and if you know how to machine parts, you can start from there.

Sorry I couldn't be of more help.

Mike
liman says: Jul 15, 2011. 2:12 PM
What to do if i need 60" wooden prop., can I extend values proportionally.
And which props have better characteristics and performances 2 or 3 blade propellers.
Thanks.
AeroEngineer (author) in reply to limanJul 27, 2011. 3:01 PM
You can extend to 60" but this propeller was designed for a low speed fan boat. So it might not be appropriate for your application. Three blades can absorb
MOre power.
ishak Mohamed says: Feb 21, 2011. 8:33 AM
Dear Sir,

I am very happy about your knowlege, and sapoting to next generagion,

i got this web side, 21/02/2011, I all so made propeller later i send poto

well done, excelant.

Thanking you,

Ishak M.
rocketsurgery says: Feb 17, 2011. 8:45 PM
Great project... thanks for posting... might have to make that pagojet (backback motor), after all :)
leviterande says: Oct 19, 2009. 5:28 AM
Hi, thank you for the tutorial but I must say I seriously dont understand how you really carv the prop based on the  profliel shapes..

you have the 10 pieces of  the metal profiles.. and then what? how do you put them on the prop, how do you cut the prop accordingly to the profile.. I am having  really a hard time understanding it..

thanx
AeroEngineer (author) in reply to leviterandeSep 26, 2010. 2:50 PM
You have to mark sections along the span for each template. You also have to mark the leAding and trailing edge for each template on the wood. Then place the template on wood, align the leading and trailing edge, and see where u need to remove material. Carve the material, and check the template again. Repaeat this process until the wood shape matches the template shape
bobsmith760 in reply to leviterandeSep 18, 2010. 11:10 AM
From what I see, you cut the metal template in half and carve out the inside shape. When you are done you should be able to slide the template over the top or bottom and were it touches is where you need to remove material.
Leave a reply if you have any more questions
Kelticpaddler in reply to bobsmith760Jun 9, 2011. 1:01 AM
If I understand right, using the cross section profile shown above, you stick the paper to the metal and cut out the templates, keeping the WHITE parts, not the GREY parts.

In effect you have made "outside" gauges, not "inside" (or teardrop) gauges.

THen simply place them onto the prop at the correct station. Remove the material where the gauge touches (or the highspots).

Beautifully done by the way....I like it!!
Re-design says: Apr 10, 2010. 6:15 PM
Most excellent work.
opensuse says: Sep 29, 2009. 10:51 PM
mwhitelog says: Jun 21, 2009. 7:31 AM
I have a 44-inch antique wooden propeller that I would like to mount to the wall in my apartment. What is the best way to mount the propeller. I enjoy all the comments. Thank you. 54pickup
finnrambo says: Apr 20, 2009. 4:33 PM
Sounds hard to make.
emdarcher says: Feb 22, 2009. 4:47 PM
what is that propeller for? an airplane?
AeroEngineer (author) in reply to emdarcherApr 1, 2009. 5:53 PM
It is for an Air boat, here is a few pictures of it mounted on the air boat:
http://www.aerodyndesign.com/FAN_BOAT/FAN_BOAT_FABRICATION.htm
ivanlp says: Feb 23, 2009. 3:29 AM
Thank you really for useful practical security councils! I will try to take it for my parachute. Again thanks! Ivanlp
DMC_0148.JPG
AeroEngineer (author) in reply to ivanlpApr 1, 2009. 5:51 PM
sweet. Your welcome!
wonger18 says: Mar 17, 2009. 11:42 PM
Hi, i have a question about your cross section. How can i print out a full size copy of it? it says it should by around 48 inches in length. im thinking about printing parts of it on many sheets of paper and then gluing them onto the templates. could you tell me how to get a full size?
AeroEngineer (author) in reply to wonger18Apr 1, 2009. 5:50 PM
Well you can print it out using the tile option and then cut it out and tape it together. Or u can take it to Kinko, and they can print it on a plotter.
angelod0329 says: Jan 14, 2009. 8:23 PM
thanks for the procedure in making a wood propeller. its a big help for my assignment...
Kohler says: Dec 3, 2008. 11:13 AM
Great Instructable!! Now im feeling like building an Fokker Dr.1
Rotor-Head says: Aug 4, 2008. 12:45 PM
Question.. I have a wood prop and the tip has a small piece out from a rock hit.. Other than that it's perfect. If I were to make a mold of the tip (from the other side) drill a few small holes in the damaged area and fill the holes and mold with an epoxy or something to rebuilt the tip... what would I use in terms of a filler material? Thanks
bd5 in reply to Rotor-HeadNov 9, 2008. 11:19 PM
If I were you, I would dig out (even grind if necessary) the damaged area. Leave no loose or damaged wood in the nick. Get some high quality epoxy (do NOT use 5 minute epoxy), mix fiberglass (no longer than 1/8") into the nick. Use a metal file to carefully file away the excess epoxy/glass. Make sure you cover the epoxy with a good quality paint as epoxy can deteorate with light. Rebalance the propellor. Voila, you're done.
dandumit says: Aug 24, 2008. 12:11 PM
please tell me what routing bits did you used ?
Those : http://www.copycarver.com/copy_carver_burrs.htm Worth the money ?
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