Introduction: Wood Slice Coat Rack

TOOLS
Saw (crosscut or table)
Saw (crosscut or band)
Drill
Bits
Screwdriver

MATERIALS
3'-1" x 10" or 3/4" plywood
3'- 1" x 4"
Ebony stain
Varnish (if desired)
Wood Glue
3 or 4-1-1/4" wood screws
4- black coat hooks with screws
1" to 1-1/2" diameter dead and dry* branches (walnut, oak, or other hardwood)
               * off the tree and ground for a year

Step 1: Preparing the Main Part

I cut my 1" x 10" and 1" x4" to 36 inches long.  You can use a piece of 3/4" plywood 10" x 36".  Align the 1" x 4" along the edge of the 1" x 10" to insure fit.  Hold the 1" x 4" in place and turn both boards over.  Realign.  Drill 3 or 4 pilot holes 1" deep through the back of the 1" x 10" and into, but not through, the 1" x 4".  Separate the two boards and apply a couple lines of wood glue to the back of the 1" x 4".  Put the two boards back together again and screw them together with the 1-1/4" wood screws.  

Step 2: Staining and Cutting the Rounds

Following the manufacturer's directions, apply a coat of stain to the front and edges of the boards.  Wipe it on with a rag and then wipe it off with a clean one.  When the stain is dry, apply a coat of varnish, if you want.

Using a band saw with a "fence" attached, cut 1/2" thick rounds from the branches.  Try the make the cuts perpendicular to the branch.  My branches were dry walnut but I let them dry for a couple weeks more so that the bark would pop off easier.


Step 3: Applying the Rounds

Lay out the rounds on the stained board, above the 1" x4" only.  This is to make sure you have enough.  This is the time to cut more, if needed.  

Remove the first 2 or 3 rows, starting at one end.  Keep them in the same order they were on the board.  Put a good drop of wood glue where each round would be and replace the rounds on top of the glue drops.  Lightly press down on the rounds to insure a good connection.  Alternate removing one row and replacing a glued row, working your way from one end to the other until all the rounds are glued in place.  Let the glue dry over night..  

Step 4: Attaching the Hooks

My 36" coat rack has 4 hooks at 9-3/8" spacing.  The outside hooks are 4" from the ends with the other two about 9-3/8" in from the end ones.  Find the midline of the 1" x 4" board (top to bottom).  Mark light marks where the midline and the center lines of the hooks intersect.  Place a hook at the intersection marks and make marks where the screw holes will be.  Repeat for each hook.  Drill pilot holes for the screws that hold the hooks.   Attach the hooks to the coat rack with the screws that came with the hooks.  

On the back of the coat rack write your mane and the date you finished your project.  

Securely mount the coat rack where you will receive lots of compliments on your project.    If there is a hook slightly askew, leave a scarf hanging on it.  No one will ever notice.

Comments

author
Attmos (author)2012-08-04

Really cool. Do you think its going overboard of me to build one for my log cabin? ;-)

author
Samimy (author)2012-08-03

awesome idea and work, i love it !

author
mh76dk (author)2012-08-01

That looks really great, I love the woodpile look of it. i think it is almost a dis-service to the piece to use metal for the hooks, would wood be too fragile? (my vision has sticks pointing kinda random directions though upwards and with bark still on it - that is probably too messy though) I suppose using metal is more durable in the long run though.

author
mh76dk (author)mh76dk2012-08-01

And seconds later i see this on the side: https://www.instructables.com/id/Simple-Branching-Coat-Rack/ which pretty much exactly shows what i mean :)

author
Kiteman (author)mh76dk2012-08-02

I had a similar thought, except I thought about some of the slices being longer, with a notch cut in the top to make the hook, and a long screw or bolt through the back panel to reinforce it.

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