This bearing consists of 3 parts, the inner race, the outer race, and the balls. Most ball bearings have what is called a cage that is pressed in to hold the balls in, but I could not make that so I made this with the outer race as 2 parts glued together.
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Signing UpStep 1: Tools and materials required.
Wood lathe with a faceplate (A metal lathe would work very well, but be careful turning wood on a metal lathe, because if you leave saw dust on the lathe it could rust)
Lathe tools
Drill bit assortment
Wood Chisel (Or utility knife)
Caliper
Materials:
2 5.5 inch squares of 3/4" thick wood (I used pine because that is what I had, but hardwood would be better, but anything you can turn on your lathe is fine) this is going to be the outer race
1 3" square of 1.5" thick wood (I cut this out of a 2x4) this will be the inner race
Material for 9 wooden spheres (see next step)
Super glue/ Wood glue









































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I do many things that I get much more expensive than going directly to buy ready made, but in the process I learn and enjoy.
The massive bearing company SKF publishes a massive book on bearing design, with some of this history in it.
The other thing is that bearings are made to suit the job...
For SOME tasks, PLAIN tapered bearings are quite good.... even wooden ones...
Most of the ones I make are 45* tapered bearings, because they are self centering, self aligning and self adjusting, without locking up.
BUT they have their limitations as all things do, but for low speed, low load bearings, they are quite nice to make and run.
THE wood for these of course would be Lignum Vitae.
Mate, you are on a winner and could possibly have a commercial market. There are a large number of boats stored in boat yards with their own ramps that are forever having difficulty with their bearings. If you are prepared to make up a set of four wood bearings to size I would be more than happy to purchase them.
Great Idea!!!
Start by cutting a cube out of whatever wood you prefer and tack sandpaper to a table/block/etc. Drill a small hole completely through the center of the cube. At this point, I like to take a small & long wood screw (with the head removed) that will fit into the hole and clamp the other end into the drill with a washer between the drill grips and the wooden ball. Then it's just about turning on the drill and rounding the corners on sandpaper. Once you are half done, you have a rounded end, flip it over and go to the other side. Now you have a pretty spherical shape without a lathe. To really dial it in, hold some steel wool over the end of the ball and let it spin, it will take off any rough edges fast.
The only downside is that they have a small hole in them, but it won't matter. And as always, be safe when you are using power tools. Especially if you have one drilling towards your other hand.
I've made several wooden v pulleys that work well and last a long time.
Once tried to make a taper lock pulley, but Alas! when I tried to lock it on the shaft it split the outer part. Guess I didn't think that through.
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Also, a SLIGHTLY better method for attaching the stock to the chuck flange...
Use WHITE glue, not woodworking glue, and put a sheet of thick paper, NOT card stock, between your work piece and the MDF that is screwed to the chuck flange. This will hold just as well, and separate very easily as the joint will cleave at the paper. Then just sand the remaining paper and glue off the finished work.
Also I have heard of using white glue and paper, but white glue takes a very long time to dry, and I am impatient, so I chose to use super glue and accelerator, and I was a little surprised to see that it held, even when I went to larger diameters (~9").