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I love my clamps! But these old wooden beam clamps are extremely hard to find. So it was time to make my own.

These were from a hardware kit I got from Wild Man Tech and he has a video out on how to make your own here. https://youtu.be/ZC49owEFePc

The beams and handles were made from Oak, and the pads on the jaws were made from pine.

Materials needed

Oak for beam = cut to whatever length clamp you desire. (strait clean grain if possible)

Oak oak for handle = 1 ¼” X 1 ¼” X 4 ½” “can be laminated”

Soft pine for Jaw pads = two pads needed 1 ½” X 1 ¼” X ¾”

#4 ¾” brass flat head screws = 4 per clamp : http://amzn.to/2gm1r7Z

#7 1 ¼” Brass Flat head screw = one per clamp : http://amzn.to/2gm1r7Z

Boiled Linseed Oil: http://amzn.to/2gm1r7Z

Past wax finish: http://amzn.to/2gm1r7Z

5 minute epoxy: http://amzn.to/2gm1r7Z

Tools needed

Hand plane: http://amzn.to/2gm1r7Z

Hand saw: http://amzn.to/2hiE8ON

Drill bit set: http://amzn.to/2hiE8ON

Brace or drill: http://amzn.to/2hiE8ON

¼” Chisel: http://amzn.to/2hiE8ON

Awl: http://amzn.to/2hiE8ON

File set: http://amzn.to/2hiE8ON

Step 1: Building the Handles

First, print off a pattern of an octagon that is sized to your desired width. For me that is 1 ¼” but others like larger and smaller. Trace the pattern on both ends of the handle stock so that it is aligned with two sides. This way those sides do not need to be planned to dimension.

<p>Excellent job</p>
<p>I wrote an Instructable of making the steel parts that go along with this project. http://www.instructables.com/id/Wooden-Bar-Clamps-Steel-Parts-Edition/</p>
<p>It seems to me that you have a lot of experience and that is coming from someone who also has a lot. I am not a big fan of people who try to correct your procedures after the fact...<a href="http://www.instructables.com/member/sgbotsford" rel="nofollow">sgbotsford</a> needs to check himself/herself. a pine pad can get changed out any time and for the handles you could even brill and pin it in place if it did work loose after a time.</p><p>I personally love the look of these and I sure as heck believe that they will stand the test of time...</p><p>Great job and I love that you don't seem to use power tools....</p>
<p>Thank you. I went back and forth with putting a pin in these, but none of my others have a pin so I decided to let it go.</p>
<p>Great job. They really look great. </p>
<p>Thanks! I love playing with these.</p>
<p>Very nice, sir! I have a pair of hand-me-down pipe bar clamps that <br>have served me well, but there's nothing quite like a tool that you've <br>made yourself.</p>
<p>So true! I love working with these!</p>
<p>Very nice, sir! I have a pair of hand-me-down pipe bar clamps that <br>have served me well, but there's nothing quite like a tool that you've <br>made yourself.</p>
<p>These are some very nice looking clamps. I also enjoyed your video (especially liked that you use all hand tools to make these clamps) and subscribed to your channel. I am looking forward to watching more of your videos.</p>
<p>thank you! That means a lot. I have a lot more fun things planned.</p>
<p>I've got a selection of sliding metal bar clamps. Even with a pivoting 4&quot; handle on the screw I can't get them tight enough a lot of the time. I would be concerned that I couldn't get enough grip on a mere octagonal handle. Even standard pipe clamps have a 3&quot; wingnut for cranking up the torque.</p><p>I would also worry about the long term stability of an epoxy bond between metal and wood. Epoxy is not noted for being a flexible glue, and I would expect it to fail from differential expansion and contraction of the metal and wood with changing temps and humidity. May be merit in using a low viscosity, slower set epoxy so that it could soak into the grain of the wood and not be a surface bond. Similarly, I would really rough up that shaft. I could see merit in making the hole 1/64 smaller than the shaft diameter, then attempt to cut splines in the shaft with very coarse sand paper.</p><p>Pine splits fairly easily. The pad end of the threaded shaft doesn't appear to be much larger than the shaft. This puts all the force on the center of the back of the pine block. Perhaps glue a square of 10 ga. steel on back of the pine block. Also, you don't mention it, but the screw on the face of the pine block should be countersunk, shouldn't it, and the hole be oversize so that the pad isn't torqued when the handle is turned.</p>
<p>I never put that much pressure on anything. If the joint is fitted correctly you can even do it without clamps. Pressure is not important. I have used these for years and they hold up very well.</p>
<p> My husband only grudgingly lets me in his woodshop. This looks like a great project and you make it look so easy. With a little of his help I think I might give it a go. </p>
<p>now that sounds like fun.</p>
Great work. I may just have to give this a go and put the spare cash towards a new planer! Thank you.
I love using these. and they look so good on the wall.
<p>Great fathers day present</p>
<p>That it would be! you can never have enough!</p>
<p>Great instructable! Just voted for ya</p>
<p>Thanks this was a fun one to put together!</p>
<p>I don't &quot;need&quot; any clamps, but I may just have to make some of these anyway... you know woodworkers and clamps! Well done.</p>
<p>LOL who &quot;needs&quot; more but you can never have enough!</p>
<p>Killer project, James! VOTED</p>
Sweet! thanks man!
<p>very simple and i m sure efficient thanks a lot for sharing.</p>
<p>Thanks! I love these things!</p>
These are beautiful! Excellent job.
thanks man! I love playing with them!

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Bio: I have been working with wood since I could stumble into the shop with my dad. About a year ago I moved into a house ... More »
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