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I work from a home office situated in a carpeted room, where I sit for hours at a time next to a computer screen.

To protect the flooring and provide a smooth rolling surface, I acquired a plastic chair mat from an office store.

However, I soon found that I was extremely unsatisfied with the performance of my new chair mat. Despite buying a thicker version, my chair wheels still rested in "divots" in the mat. In the chair mat's defense, I am on the "huggable" side at 240-ish . . . But nonetheless, sitting in divots defeats one of the main benefits of the mat in the first place--the ability to roll and move the chair freely.

Also, my work table is about 6 feet long. My computer sits on one half of the table and the other half is left open for other tasks. This plastic mat wasn't big enough to allow me to roll my chair to the other side when working on non-computer things.

After a bit of searching I found that you can in fact purchase longer, thicker and more heavy-duty chair mats that would meet the needs I was trying to fill. These bamboo ones look like an excellent choice, but they are not cheap.

With that in mind, I decided to make my own. All said, I spent less than $75 USD on this mat and am perfectly happy with its performance. It is made from laminate flooring, particle board, and a bit of wood trim, all of which is available from any home improvement store.

If you find yourself in a similar predicament and don't want to shell out big bucks, here's how to make your own wooden chair mat. Thanks for taking a look!

Step 1: Prepare Laminate Flooring Pieces

The cheapest box of laminate flooring I could find was about $30 USD. One box covers an area roughly 4 feet by 5.5 feet, which is perfect in front of my 6-foot work table. A smaller mat can be made by simply not using all of the boards from the box.

For this use, the cheapest laminate is the best choice not only for price, but because it is perfectly smooth. The more expensive laminate flooring styles have slight waves, gouges and mars to imitate real wood. That looks nice in a dining area, but is the opposite of what a person would want in this application.

The boards are made with a tongue-and-groove system that allows them to snap together along both the longer sides, as well as the narrow ends. Both the tongue side and the groove side have portions that extend out past the upper finished surface of the board, which are generally hidden once the boards are installed. (The groove side has a 1/2" tab that extends out from the bottom of the board that locks onto the bottom of the tongue side of the opposing board.)

For this use, however, these extending portions must be removed from any areas that will become the perimeter of the assembled mat.

I began by trimming away the bits from the narrow ends of all boards using a cross-cut sled on my table saw.

Then, along the lengths of two boards I trimmed away the tongue from one board, and the locking tab below the groove from the other. These two boards will be the end pieces on the right and left sides of the assembled mat.

See photo notes for additional details.

<p>Would be all for it if I didn't need to cut such a custom shape for mine and not have the tools for it. Needs to be skinnier under the desk and a bit wider outside the desk.</p>
<p>I just found a stack of laminated wood on the curb. When I get some time, I will post a pic. Great instructable, and great idea! Thank you.</p>
Boom lol thank you i didnt want to use peel and stick laminate and dont have the space or time to stain or paint, so faux wood flooring yesss. Went to the hardware store and actually got this 1 box for $10 score it was a special order that had been returned, it does have the groves but they are not really noticeable when I'm rolling lol so 1/4 inch plywood nice side down so no worries for my deposit when i move, $16 1 tube liquid nails $3 i only glued every other board peice but did glue every joint. Now i will get some 1/2 inch trim sometime and finish it up. Pros diy feel great functional inexpensive. Cons well maybe i should have gotten half inch board but all and all totally happy. Thank you!!!#
<p>Looks good! Mine's holding up great with full daily use. Nice to see yours!</p>
Thx it should be all i need through grad school. I noticed the date 2 yrs lmao. I guess ill be back next year for an update on mine
<p>Our local Habitat for Humanity REstore often receives donations of single boxes of laminate flooring that can be purchased for a very low price. This will be an excellent use and help a good cause at the same time. Thanks so much for this Instructable.</p>
<p>Here's a solution I came up with:</p><p>1) Buy a really cheap table from craigslist with the correct table top dimensions.</p><p>2) Detach all the legs and keep the table top.</p><p>Done :)</p>
<p>LOL!!!! That,...my friend....is nothing short of BRILLIANT!!! PLUS you are repurposing an item (recycling!) </p>
<p>I must add that this is very beatuiful though. I just thought I would share my poor man's version :)</p>
<p>I second that.</p>
<p>Oh, my gosh! I can't tell you how mad I am at myself after seeing this. I passed up an entire display of laminate flooring a few weeks ago, ten bucks a box!</p><p>Such a cool project, and it looks great! Thanks for sharing!</p>
<p>This is so fine! Also it was a pleasure to read your instructions which are so easy to follow. </p><p>I have an smallish ugly coffee table and lots of leftover flooring so I am going to try to make a top for the coffee table. My question is why did you put the trim on first? It would seem to me that it should go on last. I have a few reasons for this question and I will do it your way if you just tell me why.</p>
<p>First of all, thank you for the compliments on the floor mat, and my instructions!</p><p>A couple reasons for doing the trim first: The trim acts as walls (or "bumpers") so the flooring pieces fit into a predetermined place, and there's no need to watch and make sure they are not overhanging the edges of the base--they can't!</p><p>Most importantly though, is the piece of trim directly behind the first flooring board you lay. When installing the first board, and every board thereafter, there needs to be a firm "wall" to push against so you can tap or pound the flooring pieces into place (if you're using the variety that lock in place) without them shifting. Without a back wall to push against, the adhesive on the first board may suffice for (although you would need to wait for it to cure sufficiently before adding the remaining boards.) So it's just easier and very helpful if you at least put that back "wall" (trim piece) in place ahead of time.</p><p>Good question! You really made me think there. :)</p>
<p>Great idea! I decided I needed one of these myself, after killing atleast 3 of the plastic chair mats. I backed mine with some 1/2&quot; plywood and I'd I have to say - even though the particle board seems like a non-optimal material to use it does hold its shape better than plywood. I had to deal with some warping of my base sheet, though in the end I really like how it looks. I also cut the front corners off of mine so it would slide a little ways between the legs of my IKEA desk.</p>
<p>Glad you were able to make one! Got a photo to share? I'd love to see how it turned out.</p>
I haven't put the trim on yet. Once I do that I'll get a photo up ASAP.
<p>Well done. I would be interested to know if the particle board holds up. I think of it as being &quot;crumbly&quot;, so I'm very interested if it will give good service for this use. Did you use 1/2&quot;? I am toying with this idea and returning the mat I purchased for my husband's chair. He is a big guy and we keep replacing these...also, I need something in my computer room. I have fir floors (very soft wood) I put down a heavy rubberized mat, like you see in restaurant entries. The short naps rolls okay and I thought it would protect my floor, but the wood floor is getting chewed up by the rolling. I think I may have to use your idea there. Since it is already hard, I was considering using luan (really thin plywood) and gluing the faux wood flooring to that. If I get it done, I'll post it. Thanks for inspiring me.</p>
<p>As an update, this shows no sign of wear whatsoever. I sit in my chair on it 8+ hours a day. This is the ideal floor mat.</p><p>I would not recommend making this with anything other than 3/4" particle board as a base. People have a misconception about particle board. It is the perfect material when using it for what it was designed to do, which is be a hard, uniform subfloor material. When used in furniture, that's another story.</p>
<p>this is but 1 of the reasons why I refuse to use particle board....</p><p>another is, I am forever having something to drink at my computer(water, soda, most any non alcoholic drink) &amp; on occasion, things get spilled...</p><p>particle board turns to mush when it gets wet...exterior plywood does not have that problem.</p>
<p>I had to make this after I saw this Instructable. I ended up using left over Oak hardwood that I got free from a local hardwood flooring store. They had several boxes of matching off cuts that worked out perfectly.</p>
<p>Hey, very nice! </p><p>I love my mat and sit/roll around on it all day long. Hope you enjoy yours as much as I do mine. Thanks for sharing the photo.</p>
<p>I want this!!</p>
<p>I used a 1/4&quot; ply and glued engineered flooring from HD (Internet # 204111086). Trimmed the edges using flush bit of a router and then glued a pre-finished edge on all four sides (found at Lowes). Total material cost was about $23. Works so much better than the heavy plastic sheet from Costco. Thanks for the excellent idea.</p>
Nicely done! That looks great. Glad you were able to make one!
<p>What struck me about this, is that you could use this exact method to make a really cool dining table, coffee table, etc. simply by adding legs and maybe putting a layer of glass on top that fits inside the frame.</p>
<p>That's a great idea! </p><p>Cheap laminate flooring may be the next popular multi-use DIY material. Hmmm... the gears are turning!</p>
<p>This instructable is just AWESOME in my opinion....</p><p>all the different ideas &amp; Qs are also awesome....</p><p>I have read A LOT of instructables thru the years, and I think this is one of the best I've read!</p><p>TY for sharing SIr. 8 )</p>
<p>Friggin genius. I just installed laminate floors in my house and was worried about my home office chair wearing down the floor. Since I have a box left over, Im going to add some felt to the bottom of this design and make a laminate mat to protect my laminate hardwood! Thanks!</p>
<p>Q:</p><p>instead of the felt, which may slide like crazy, </p><p>what about that rubber stuff that is made to hold rugs in place?</p><p>Would that not protect your new flooring AND keep this mat from sliding??</p>
Thanks! And that's a nice looking floor! <br /><br />Now, there are thin floor-protecting plastic mats for use on wood floors that are actually pretty cheap. That might just be an easier option for your situation.
<p>this is an excellent idea....I have some spare pallets to blow!! Thanks</p>
<p>I never thought of pallets either....I know a place where I can get about 4 maybe 5 </p><p>8 foot tall stacks of them...8)</p>
<p>Super idea! I've been rolling around on a piece of 3/4&quot; Birch plywood. It's ok until you hit a void, then you have to get back in the chair again. I'll try your way!</p>
<p>Q:</p><p>why not use the Birch Plywood for the base? it would save you a few $$$$...</p>
<p>Excellent idea. If Habitat for Humanity has a Restore in your area, you might be able to pick up what you need for even more savings.</p><p>John</p>
<p>or them lumber/hardware stores that sell wood, shingles, flooring, etc., at insanely low prices...there's a name for these knds of businesses but I forget what they are called....</p>
<p>get idea about the re-store.</p>
<p>I currently have a plastic mat and it is cracked and falling apart. Was going to get a new one but will definitely build this instead! Great work.</p>
<p>The way I see it, even if you pay twice the cost, making one out of wood will last FAR LONGER, than anything made from plastic.</p><p>He said he spent about $75 on this...</p><p>well if you was to spend $150.00 and the thing last 10 years, that about $15 per year....how can you beat that?</p><p>and with proper care, I'm thinking 15 years or more..... :)</p>
<p>Simple, effective &amp; looks great too! You should be able to pick up enough laminate flooring for this project for free - just ask anybody who sells or fits the stuff, they always have leftovers &amp;, unlike wood, it's not much use for anything else.</p>
<p>I never thought of that....</p><p>good idea! :)</p><p>&quot;...oh a dumpster diving I go, a dumpster diving I go...&quot; LOL</p><p>Another idea is tile...for free I mean. maybe a we bit more work, but...why not? </p><p>it would be something different...</p>
<p>Nicely done! Using a laminate floor material is a smart way to ensure a perfectly flush surface. The frame is a nice touch as well.</p>
Thanks! I tend to fidget around a lot, and those plastic mats just don't allow for much rolly-fidgety-ness.
<p>this is just my 2 cents opinion, so take it as such....</p><p>I think them plastic mats are a joke...a very expensive joke.</p><p>I inherited one a while back &amp; i cut it up, drilled holes in it &amp; used it in my container gardening...it works good for that, will last forever &amp; will never see a landfill site.</p>
<p>AWESOME!</p><p>Absolutely beautiful!!</p><p>TY for sharing Sir!</p><p>There is just 2 things I would change...but this is because of personal preference, NOT, NOT because I feel you did anything wrong...on the contrary, I think you did everything right. </p><p>The 2 things I would change is:</p><p>#1) I would use exterior grade plywood....I know, it's a lot more expensive, but I do not like particle board, &amp; so I'd use the plywood(personal preference).</p><p>#2) because I have an 8 foot counter top mounted to the wall that I use for my &quot;office area&quot; , I would make it just like yours but 7.75 feet wide.</p><p>The counter top I inherited, I did not buy it....</p><p>Thank You again Sir for sharing this. I love it! :)</p>
<p>Many of the commercial plastic mats have studs to keep them in place on a carpet or rug. Unfortunately for me, these eventually made dents in the (not so) hardwood floor underneath. I like your solution and it's great that it can be sized for the work area. Nice job.</p>
Thank you! It's been a very nice addition to my home office.
<p>Great project and instructions. Now I have a suggestion for an emergency use of your floor project. It would make a perfect emergency table (using saw horses as a base) or a bed base for air mattress for overflow guests when mounted on 4 or 6 concrete blocks</p>
Thank you, I wouldn't have thought of that!<br /><br />The table idea is brilliant, but I think it might be a little small for a bed. Maybe a toddler bed?
<p>Great idea ! I would definately be making it soon. Couple questions if you don't mind:</p><p>1. Would it be better to have edges at the same level as the flooring ?</p><p>2. The mats that are sold have a protrusion that goes under the opening in the table. I realize it would make the construction more difficult but do you find it necessary based on your usage now ?</p>

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