Introduction: Wooden Reo M35
Technical Data Reo M35:
Length about 50 cm, true to scale
Material Beech solid wood, rubber-tyred solid wood rims, wheel diameter 72mm
Self-mixed stain "Nato-Olive" or black (rims, steering wheel, gear stick) and walnut (seats), toy clear coat, color details tinting color
Removable tarpaulin cover
Twin tires on the back of solid axles with differential dummies
Front axle steering, control via rotatable spare wheel and linkage
Moving doors on the cab
Fully equipped with diesel tank, storage boxes, taillights, headlamps, gear stick and steering wheel, seat with divided backrest, rear window, tow rope
No visible metallic parts
Just so much at the end: the project was (for me) really complicated and tedious (compared to my swing bike), has cost a lot of nerves and had almost in almost every construction phase, the potential to go completely in the pants. I am very proud of the result and would most like to put Reo in a showcase. But I have not, he may now earn his patina while fighting in the nursery.
Step 1: Planing
The starting point for the design were the tires: since it should be truck-looking rubber tires, the choice in the net is actually reduced to only two sizes, I have chosen the larger one. Also from the net can draw more or less good all-round views of the Reo, which I then scaled by computer so that the tire size is right. This set the dimensions of the device.
Now, like the swinging bike or the Lanz Bulldog, I've tried to greatly simplify the contours and details of the real Reo, while preserving the essential lines. It's not as easy as it looks and needs a lot of paper and eraser. Again and again I had the effect that even a small angular deviation or an awkwardly chosen radius make the vehicle somehow look funny.
After the good experiences with the beech glulam at the tractor, I used the same material here, also from the hardware store (stupid mistake, underground material, nothing learned). So I cut my graphic design into parts with 19mm or 8mm thickness, so in (in the hardware store, yes) available material thicknesses.
When I talked about "steering" for a long time, I finally decided to build a "real" front axle, which (as a first idea via cable, final) is linked to the (rotatable) spare wheel via a linkage. The madness number with the spare wheel (crazy idea), I really only because I did not want to spoil my beautiful vehicle with any controls on the cab roof. In retrospect, I have to admit that the steering works, but is barely operable (except when Zioehen by pulling rope, there everything works). The whole effort is therefore not worthwhile and represents only an enormous vulnerability. In a break at the steering nothing can be repaired, because all parts are glued together. Hopefully it will last ...
Well, the steering thing was so demanding of my three-dimensional imagination that I decided to retransfer the whole plan to CAD to check the function and possible collisions. Has also proven to be useful, not only because of the steering. I simply reconstructed all the parts and was then able to spit out all the stencils from the printer. After that, I was basically able to produce all the parts of the truck according to the drawings and assemble everything at the end.
The finish was clear from the beginning, I stand on visible wood. Since a military truck in Buche does not go well I decided to pickle with clear coat (look for Nato-Olive in the stain colors). Ultimately, the paint has caused quite a lot of difficulties because many parts had to be finished partially or completely before assembly (for example, the doors, the rear axles, the inside of the cabin, parts of the steering and parts of steering parts).
That's it already ...
Step 2: Cutting Parts and Assembling
Below I briefly and not comprehensively describe the main tricks and construction methods that I used for the truck:
Template technique in combination with the copy router: I applied this technique to my Bulldog for the first time and used it again. You make stencils out of plywood for all the difficult parts and then copy them onto the actual wood material using a copy router. I have made templates for all the cab parts, the fenders, the bumper and the mudguards. In addition, for the steering knuckle. I sawed all the stencils with the jigsaw and was amazed at how exactly a jigsaw just saws with a stop. Works great, saves loops, great thing. The only catch: if the parts are small as with me it becomes really difficult with the clamping and the milling adventurous. Have worked a lot with double-sided tape that works well.
Jig construction: Especially when working with the router you get very far with devices, you just have to be a little bit creative. Textbooks often contain devices that take longer to build than the actual project. I've often used some waste wood and screw clamps to fix it, after all, I do not build furniture and you can always sand down small bumps. My favorite device was the one for the bonnet: I enclosed the blank on all four sides with wooden strips of the same height (simply screwed into the workbench). Then, on a short side of the hood, I screwed two wood screws into the workbench, on whose heads the blank rests. By unscrewing or screwing in the screws, the inclination of the blank can be changed as desired. If you then milled with the mounted on the bezel cutter on the blank, the pretty hood shape can be easily made.
Glueing round wood in a hole: I have noticed many times that a round timber that has been glued into a hole loosens over time, probably because the wood is shrinking. To prevent that from happening with the truck, I used two techniques: on the one hand, I slotted the roundwoods in the glue area (superficially), so that the glue has some space when pressing in the roundwood. Every time I thought I could save myself, there was breakage. On the other hand, I have cross-bolted all glued round logs, with a smaller round wood. Even the "differentials" of the rear axles are so bolted, with a toothpick. I also used the toothpick on the steering rod again (drill diameter 2.5mm). That holds then bomb.
Connectors: I've pinned the frame and batten parts before gluing, because I'm on the cookie when parts slip when tightening screw clamps again and again. Was just such an idea, but has worked great. I simply placed the parts together without glue and then pierced both parts with a drill diameter of 4mm. Then a 4mm round wood is hammered in and the whole thing put together - there is no more slippage when gluing. You can barely see the roundwoods smoothed out, and I find them neatly positioned in a decorative way.
Sunk screws: I have some parts such as the canopy screwed for child protection reasons (protection of the vehicle from children). For this I made 6mm countersunk holes, at the end of which 3mm holes continue to the component to be connected. In the countersunk holes I have introduced M4 stainless steel screws and then closed the hole again with a 6mm round wood and ground. Way is the screw.
Step 3: ...assembling
Well, I could continue to philosophize for a while, but I want it to be good on the spot. Maybe a few Steno-wisdoms: Nato-Olive you mix from green, black, teak and walnut. Rubber tires are stuck with Pattex on wooden rims and kill while the water-soluble clearcoat with water-soluble stain. Baumarktholz is no good. The Dremel was the most used tool in this project and has only proven itself. You can paint stars by hand, but you can use the border of Christmas glue as a template. As always, the colored highlights are made with tinting paint. Tinting color and stains are incompatible, first clear lacquer and then paint with the tinting color. You can machine round timber in a stand drill almost like a lathe, if it does not have to be extremely precise (gear stick). I did not use a lathe for the project. If the little ones on the box break anything, nothing can be repaired, which is stupid. The next time I take visible screws but that's just smarter. The pulling cable is connected to the steering and moves the front wheels. So that the grossmotorischen junior bags do not rip out the steering I have installed a "shock absorber" in the ball at the end of the train. It is unbelievable how much dust and chips the production of such a small vehicle produces
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