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Step 9Attaching the wheel stays (side panels)
Drill the real wheel's axle hole in the two stacked wheel stays (in one shot) just barely larger than the axle.
Wheel alignment technique:
1) Attach the two loose wheel stays (side panels) to the wheel axle and tighten the axle nuts finger tight.
2) Clamp the wheel stays on the main beam in about the right place. (C clamps or wood clamps etc)
3) Make a bike chain the right length using the donor bike chain and some extra chain. See: How to use Chain Tool
4) Install chain on chainwheel and cog.
5) Slide wheelstay (panel) back until chain is tight (tight means it deflects about 1/4" when pushed 2 lbs from the side) Make sure side panel is pressed snug up to the supporting top plate. Clamp in place and tack with one screw (No Glue) to beam.
6) Back up and eyeball the wheel alignment relative to the bike. Slide the other wheelstay (left panel) around until the wheel is both plumb* and straight along the direction of bike travel. Clamp and screw (No glue. (I have commitment issues) and you may need to remove at least the right side panel for chain and tire maintenance).
7) Put in the rest of the screws (at least 4 on each side).
8) attach the rear wheel coaster brake arm to the left wheelstay with a sturdy bolt mounted through the plywood (and through an additional reinforcement spacer plywood scrap). It is only a 4" arm so it is subject to a lot of leverage when stopping.
9) Trim bike to desired height above road and desired length. You see I chose a ground hugging 2" above road for me. For more safety and to accommodate uneven roads and hard riding yahoos, cut frame higher above road. To avoid stubbing your nose you could cut the nose higher than i did also. (Called cutting you nose to spare your face.)
10) Seat is optional on this bike.
11) You can add shelves inside for storage and a back door panel to enclose your stuff.
12) Use carefully and safely always wearing a helmet and clean underwear, avoiding holes, bumps, curbs, rocks etc.
Wheel alignment technique:
1) Attach the two loose wheel stays (side panels) to the wheel axle and tighten the axle nuts finger tight.
2) Clamp the wheel stays on the main beam in about the right place. (C clamps or wood clamps etc)
3) Make a bike chain the right length using the donor bike chain and some extra chain. See: How to use Chain Tool
4) Install chain on chainwheel and cog.
5) Slide wheelstay (panel) back until chain is tight (tight means it deflects about 1/4" when pushed 2 lbs from the side) Make sure side panel is pressed snug up to the supporting top plate. Clamp in place and tack with one screw (No Glue) to beam.
6) Back up and eyeball the wheel alignment relative to the bike. Slide the other wheelstay (left panel) around until the wheel is both plumb* and straight along the direction of bike travel. Clamp and screw (No glue. (I have commitment issues) and you may need to remove at least the right side panel for chain and tire maintenance).
7) Put in the rest of the screws (at least 4 on each side).
8) attach the rear wheel coaster brake arm to the left wheelstay with a sturdy bolt mounted through the plywood (and through an additional reinforcement spacer plywood scrap). It is only a 4" arm so it is subject to a lot of leverage when stopping.
9) Trim bike to desired height above road and desired length. You see I chose a ground hugging 2" above road for me. For more safety and to accommodate uneven roads and hard riding yahoos, cut frame higher above road. To avoid stubbing your nose you could cut the nose higher than i did also. (Called cutting you nose to spare your face.)
10) Seat is optional on this bike.
11) You can add shelves inside for storage and a back door panel to enclose your stuff.
12) Use carefully and safely always wearing a helmet and clean underwear, avoiding holes, bumps, curbs, rocks etc.
- a one syllable word for vertical
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