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Step 2Disassembly
Taking the band apart (photos 1 & 2)
On the inside of your watch band some of the links should be marked with a directional arrow. Pick the links closet to the face with these markings and use your center punch and 'bench rest' to drive out the link pins in the direction of the arrows.
Removing the back of the case
If the back of your watch has slots cut into it at regular intervals you have a screw off backer and will need some extra tools or a trip to a jeweler to get the sucker open. Check for tools and some more info at the Poor Man's Watch Forum Mine was, thankfully, a snap off back so those are the details I can outline.
Take either a fine screwdriver or dull knife blade and insert it either in between the case and backer (in the opening slot, if you have one). Then its just a matter of twisting the blade towards the watch face to remove the back (think shucking an oyster).
Taking out the movement (photos 3 & 4)
First we need to remove the stem to free the guts. There are two types of connecting systems between stems and movements, pushers and screws, again reference Poor Man's if you are unsure which you have.
I have a pusher style, so take a dull pin and press down in the release hole (dark hole to the left of the stem in photo 3) while pulling gently on the stem. You may have to pull a little harder than you think, but you only have to press in with the pin gently to release. With the stem out, the movement, face and any spacers should come out freely.
Removing the hands
Follow the manufacturer's directions on your tool to remove the hands from face. Start with the outermost hand first (second) and work towards the face (hour).
About face
The final step of disassembly is to remove the old face from the movement. Mine was held on with two tiny friction-fit pins pressing into the movement. I slid the thinnest knife blade I had on hand inbeween the back of the face and front of the movement and they parted ways easily.
Once the face is off, you need to be VERY careful to not rough up the movement too much. There is a good chance that one or more of the drive gears where being held in place by the face. They will now actively try to escape.
Paranoia (optional step) (photos 8 & 9)
Since I had little faith in my ability to take apart the movement and get it back together in working order, I decided to reattach the minute hand and let it run for a few minutes to make sure everything still worked. Thankfully, it did.
On the inside of your watch band some of the links should be marked with a directional arrow. Pick the links closet to the face with these markings and use your center punch and 'bench rest' to drive out the link pins in the direction of the arrows.
Removing the back of the case
If the back of your watch has slots cut into it at regular intervals you have a screw off backer and will need some extra tools or a trip to a jeweler to get the sucker open. Check for tools and some more info at the Poor Man's Watch Forum Mine was, thankfully, a snap off back so those are the details I can outline.
Take either a fine screwdriver or dull knife blade and insert it either in between the case and backer (in the opening slot, if you have one). Then its just a matter of twisting the blade towards the watch face to remove the back (think shucking an oyster).
Taking out the movement (photos 3 & 4)
First we need to remove the stem to free the guts. There are two types of connecting systems between stems and movements, pushers and screws, again reference Poor Man's if you are unsure which you have.
I have a pusher style, so take a dull pin and press down in the release hole (dark hole to the left of the stem in photo 3) while pulling gently on the stem. You may have to pull a little harder than you think, but you only have to press in with the pin gently to release. With the stem out, the movement, face and any spacers should come out freely.
Removing the hands
Follow the manufacturer's directions on your tool to remove the hands from face. Start with the outermost hand first (second) and work towards the face (hour).
About face
The final step of disassembly is to remove the old face from the movement. Mine was held on with two tiny friction-fit pins pressing into the movement. I slid the thinnest knife blade I had on hand inbeween the back of the face and front of the movement and they parted ways easily.
Once the face is off, you need to be VERY careful to not rough up the movement too much. There is a good chance that one or more of the drive gears where being held in place by the face. They will now actively try to escape.
Paranoia (optional step) (photos 8 & 9)
Since I had little faith in my ability to take apart the movement and get it back together in working order, I decided to reattach the minute hand and let it run for a few minutes to make sure everything still worked. Thankfully, it did.
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Jun 4, 2009. 8:39 PMtrogabird
says:
A flat bottom PVC cap about 1 n in diameter would work good in place of the coke cap. Cut 2 thin wedges to useto help level the other side of the watch band as you remove the pins.
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Apr 3, 2009. 2:22 AMThetis
says:
I'd just like to expand on your instructions for opening a watch case - I'm a qualified watch repairer. The knife you use should be exactly like a stiff, sharp penknife but without a cutting edge. It should be polished, or it is likely to mark your case. Hold the watch resting on its side on a hard but cushioned surface with the slot facing up. Offer the blade to the slot and apply downward pressure, but no more than you can control - DO NOT TWIST! Twisting is also highly likely to mark a case. It is ok to rock the blade carefully. There are cases that you can't do this with. Some cases are very difficult to open (especially those big square ones with a lug at one corner of the case back), even for a professional and I have half a dozen different case opening knives and other tools. There is no shame in going to your local watchmaker - he'll probably open it for free (well, I would, anyway!)
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