You need CAD software, a CNC milling machine (you can rent time on it), a lot of spare time and even more persistence. I don’t like plastic. Instead,...
Everything started with handicrafts. In these models, I used stuff from conventional mice. These experiments resulted in the understanding of the impo...
After plasticine experiments, prototypes were made on a 3D printer. First, to test ergonomics. Then, after correction, to test the ability to assemble...
After testing the structure, I got down to the most serious part. I chose the design in which the mouse buttons and housing made a whole. This is, at...
During this time, the housing has undergone many changes. They are not superficially visible but improve the structure seriously. This is a photo of 8...
Simultaneously, I worked on the electronics. It would be stupid to simply copy standard models, a unique mouse required unique functionality. I like t...
I made a wire mouse because of its higher durability and because I didn’t want to place another electromagnetic radiation source on my desk. At the sa...
The long development time allowed me many experiments with mouse coating. I didn’t want to use chemical-based varnishes and make a mouse surface simil...
At the end, I want to show you photos of different mouse models. They differ only by wood species. Several red wood types and black wood (Ebony) were ...
You need CAD software, a CNC milling machine (you can rent time on it), a lot of spare time and even more persistence.
I don’t like plastic. Instead, I like nature and that’s why I have developed and now produce wooden mice. They are beautiful, pleasant to hold in your hand and make your hand less sweaty.
I managed to obtain a decent result only after five years of work in my spare time. For already more than 4 years I have been using mice of my own production. During this time, I had to develop new electronic stuff twice to keep up with the times and not lag behind progress.
Step 1:
Everything started with handicrafts. In these models, I used stuff from conventional mice.
These experiments resulted in the understanding of the impossibility of making a normally working mouse using manual technologies. It also became obvious that I would have to develop my own electronics to suit my housing without trying to adapt it to the borrowed stuff. The maximum that one can produce with handicraft technologies is a single capricious specimen that will be worse than a conventional plastic mouse. This did not satisfy me and I got down to serious work.
Step 2:
After plasticine experiments, prototypes were made on a 3D printer. First, to test ergonomics. Then, after correction, to test the ability to assemble the structure.
Step 3:
After testing the structure, I got down to the most serious part. I chose the design in which the mouse buttons and housing made a whole. This is, at first sight, an easy solution in plastic but an extremely complicated engineering task when you use wood. Button press force must be standard, while the wooden part must sustainably and safely return to its original place. Let’s add here the factors of the anisotropicity of wood, the influence of humidity changes on the dimensions of parts and the different density of wood species. There is no engineering software capable of calculating such structure. That’s why I had to search for the solution experimentally. It took approximately a year, but I managed to find the solution. In terms of clicking, my mouse is not different from a conventional one.
Photos of incorrect solutions to the clicking problem.
Step 4:
During this time, the housing has undergone many changes. They are not superficially visible but improve the structure seriously. This is a photo of 8 generations (in fact, there were many more of them).
Step 5:
This is the process of housing milling with the milling machine.
Step 6:
Simultaneously, I worked on the electronics. It would be stupid to simply copy standard models, a unique mouse required unique functionality. I like to listen to music during work and phone calls make me change the volume. That’s why my mouse allows me to do this in a very convenient and easy way. You only need to press the right button (left one for left-handers) and rotate the wheel. Wheel up to turn up music, wheel down to turn it down. This function is integrated into the electronics of the mouse, that’s why it works on any computer and doesn’t require installation of drivers and doesn’t interfere with other programs.
Photo of 8 generations of electronic stuff (in fact, there were many more of them).
Step 7:
I made a wire mouse because of its higher durability and because I didn’t want to place another electromagnetic radiation source on my desk. At the same time, I wanted to avoid the problem of a tangling and inconvenient cable. That’s why I came up with the idea and ordered a cable with special characteristics of stiffness and manageability. On the one hand, the cable is soft. On the other hand, it can be conveniently positioned on the desk.
It absolutely doesn’t bother you during work.
Step 8:
The long development time allowed me many experiments with mouse coating. I didn’t want to use chemical-based varnishes and make a mouse surface similar to plastic. I wanted to preserve the sensation of live wood in hand. On the other hand, I had to ensure extremely resistant coating because the mouse is used under the most rigorous conditions. It is constantly in hand, it is influenced by friction, sweat and skin fat. After long experiments, I managed to develop the coating technology. I applied a flax oil based composition and carnauba wax. The coating technology is very time-consuming because of the necessity of intermediate dryings and takes from two weeks to one month depending on wood species. The result is a durable and beautiful coating that develops individual features after long-term usage of the mouse – it darkens in places with increased contact with human hand. This does not take from its beauty but rather decorates it and adds individuality.
This is the photo of the mouse that has been used for more than 4 year in everyday office work. The coating is not renewed intentionally. The mouse is wiped with conventional wipes for consumer electronics, which has a bad influence on the coating. It’s better to use special wipes for wood with a natural coating.
Step 9: Wooden mice by Alest Rukov
At the end, I want to show you photos of different mouse models. They differ only by wood species. Several red wood types and black wood (Ebony) were used.
Okay, are there any step by step instructions of the most important parts to it? Rather than showing the entire process maybe show just a little bit of it so I can get the concept?
I have no any detailed instructions. Make this manual is very difficult. The development took several years. A lot of the subtleties and details. My goal not to tell you how to do it. My goal was to say that this is possible.
You do not need to tell me how to do the mouse, but how you used the CNC machine to cut out the part. You do not need to show dimension and can actually show me how to set this up. It's up to you, however.
I wanted to know because I want to be able to make complex parts with my own CNC machine, not the mouse, but something else.
On a 3 axis CNC machine you are only able to cut 2.5D meaning it only cuts the top part of the object you are cutting and that's the part that is 3D, while the bottom is flat.
How did you manage to cut the bottom part of the object accurately? Did you flip it around? How did you align it if so?
I think this is wonderful. Anyone who does not have access to a CNC milling machine can use a Jig saw and sander. Yes it will take time to sand it some but I have built items like this with just a jewlers saw and a sander. So it could be done with simple tools but his mouse is made wonderfully.
they are up for sale and since i would like one especially for the volume function, which is very clever and i found his site but blimey... prices range from 800 to 1200 Holy S#!t
You are right. This is not the instructable. I was invited to this resource. My project is the industrial production and its hard to do in the Instructable format . But looking at it, the other people may be a similar idea. I wrote my story to everyone could see the potential problems.
Your honesty is awesome. Your mice rock. I need to make a cordless one with copper buttons, you have inspired me. I will post a pic once it is complete.
There's fabric insulated wire that is reproduced specifically for restoration of old tube radios and appliance cords. This could be used to cover the wire of one's mouse.
I want to thank everyone for the appreciation of my work. Sorry, do I not thank everyone personally. I dont want to increase the number of posts without useful information.
Alest, as a professional woodworker, carver, and amateur maker I have to comment on your work.However, considering the comments that have already been posted, there is not much that I can add except: I WANT! I WANT! I WANT!
I am a sucker for timber, and these mice are incredible. I've learned from making things like cutting boards that if you heat them before applying oils and waxes, the wood will absorb more of it. Did you have to play with the wall thickness of the wood or are they close in thickness to their plastic cousins?
I am inspired enough to want to replace the case on my Microsoft Wireless Mouse in a lovingly crafted piece of OAK. Well, I already have a 4X8 CNC machine just waiting for projects....
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I want to know a step by step process so I have an idea and would know that it is possible to create my own parts.
Is your CNC Milling machine a 3 axis machine? Or is it a 4 or 5 axis? Does it have a rotational axis?
The problem is not in the CNC machine
Problem in the design. Very hard to make everything work.
I do not have this video
I wanted to know because I want to be able to make complex parts with my own CNC machine, not the mouse, but something else.
Thanks.
You can ask a specific question?
How did you manage to cut the bottom part of the object accurately? Did you flip it around? How did you align it if so?
Have you watched the video with milling process?
See picture, please.
they are up for sale and since i would like one especially
for the volume function, which is very clever and i found his site
but blimey... prices range from 800 to 1200 Holy S#!t
i would pay a maximum 50 euro wired,
i guess but no more than that,
80 if wireless but that's it..
but this is not an instructable.
I was invited to this resource. My project is the industrial production and its hard to do in the Instructable format .
But looking at it, the other people may be a similar idea. I wrote my story to everyone could see the potential problems.
Your mice rock.
I need to make a cordless one with copper buttons, you have inspired me.
I will post a pic once it is complete.
Sorry, do I not thank everyone personally. I dont want to increase the number of posts without useful information.
Do you sell them, like, on eBay or anything? They look like a major money maker!
HEY! My hands are totally too huge for most mice, can you adjust the size of the mouse and make one that is 35% wider and longer?
Did you have to play with the wall thickness of the wood or are they close in thickness to their plastic cousins?
But, price really is a lot more in this case.
Truly BEAUTIFUL!
I am inspired enough to want to replace the case on my Microsoft Wireless Mouse in a lovingly crafted piece of OAK. Well, I already have a 4X8 CNC machine just waiting for projects....
Have you got any tips?
Thanks for showing us your work
I was given the project much more difficult than I thought originally.